TA Perforfance's roller rockers Qs.

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by anti-chevy II, Jan 17, 2003.

  1. anti-chevy II

    anti-chevy II beelzebub

    TA Performance's roller rockers Qs.

    I'm going to stab in my TA 212 cam soon and was thinking about buying a set of TAs 1.60:1 roller rockers, can anybody tell me if it would still be OK to run good stock/stock replacement valve springs or will I need new springs ( TA stage 1) with the extra lift from the rockers?
    Also wich of TAs push rods sould I go with, the 3/8" or the 5/16"?

    Thanks, Jeremy.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2003
  2. jeff bullock

    jeff bullock Dare to be different !!!

    Jeremy,First, stick with the 5/16 pushrods . With the extra lift from the rockers you could take a chance at them rubbing in the pushrod guides. I've been told the 5/16 are plenty strong and if you want a little added security go with the hardened pushrods. As far as the springs you definately want new ones and TA has the perfect ones for that cam, PART# TA 1436 . I would also recommend using your old springs to break in the new cam and then switch to the new ones afterwards. This can help prevent wiping out a lobe while you break in the cam. I can say that I didn't and just installed the new ones (Poston PE 104) and haven't had any problems yet. But I also learned about this after I had already installed my TA 212 cam. You will definitely like the 212 as it is perfect for the street and a little weekend trip to the track! :TU: Also check to make sure your pushrods are the proper length. You should be OK if your heads or block haven't been decked too much.Good luck and have fun with that new cam.You'll like it.
     
  3. GSXMEN

    GSXMEN Got Jesus?

    Make sure the new springs are set up for proper installed height and pressure 1st - then swap in the old ones (to break in the cam).

    Jeff's right about the TA 1436 springs - perfect spring for the job! Those pressures are right for just about any street hyd. cam!
     
  4. jeff bullock

    jeff bullock Dare to be different !!!

    Thanks Scott I knew I was forgetting something but couldn't remember.:Dou:
     
  5. anti-chevy II

    anti-chevy II beelzebub

    Thanks for all the info so far.
    So I would have to go with new springs FOR SURE if I was installing the 1.60 roller rockers?
    I won't be able to use stockers?

    How can I check for proper installed hight, and pressure? What tools do I need?

    Thanks again.
     
  6. sbbuick

    sbbuick My driving scares people!

    Jeff has a good tip there.

    IF you have power brakes, be ready for a major PITA when changing the springs on #7 cyl, however.
    The booster is right in the way of the spring compressor, @#%&! Believe me, I have done it 3 times, and it "aint' no fun!"
     
  7. jeff bullock

    jeff bullock Dare to be different !!!

    Antichevy, it's not the fact you're wanting to go to the roller rockers that mandates stiffer springs , but the fact you;ll be putting in a bigger cam with more lift than what the original springs can handle. What happens is that once you get the RPM'S up the valves will want to float , so the stiffer springs prevent that from happening by keeping more pressure on the valves to keep them from bouncing on the seats. As far as checking installed height, you need a machinists ruler which you can get at some auto supply stores. I got mine from Harbor Freight Tools when I bought a set of inside and outside calipers. I believe I paid around 5 or 6 bucks for all of it. Very useful, has the measurements on one side and conversion fractions on the back.To measure your installed height I just checked from the bottom of the spring (once installed)to the bottom of the spring retainer. Of course you'll have to have the keepers installed also. :TU:If you use the "screw type" spring compressor , which you can use with the heads on the car , it makes it a lot easier and you should have enough room even by the brake booster. Just make sure you have some way to keep the valves in place i.e. air fitting to put compressed air into each cylinder to hold the valves up against the seats or you can use a long piece of cord to put down in the spark plug hole, then rotate engine until piston comes to TDC on that cylinder. Don't forget once your done with that cylinder to rotate your crank back the opposite way to remove the cord. Good Luck!!
     
  8. anti-chevy II

    anti-chevy II beelzebub

    The reason I was planing on keeping the stock springs in is that the tech person at TA told me that would work fine with the TA 212 cam so I didn't plan on replacing them, but now that I want to go with the 1.60 rockers I wasn't sure that I could still keep the stock replacement springs because of the extra lift I'll be gaining from the new rockers.
     
  9. jeff bullock

    jeff bullock Dare to be different !!!

    Usually it depends on how many miles the car has on it or how hard the engines been ran , but usually after 33 years of use it's a good idea to swap springs while you've got things apart and it's also a little added security.:Brow:
     

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