Thats definitely not the cause I can promise you. Its a 2400-2600 stall, I have the information lying around somewhere on it but would have to go through some receipts and documentation. The stall is SO high, that I dont even start to roll until I'm probably around 1400 RPM. I have to put my foot down just to get this thing to move at all sometimes. Based on how high the RPMS hit sometimes at a light cruise you would think I was really getting on it and flying down the road.
If the Quadrajet has not been calibrated for the engine, it may in fact be running lean. I'd also like to know more about the radiator. It may not be adequate for the engine. Just because it has been re cored doesn't mean it will work. Is it a 2 or 3 row?
Doesn’t have any relevance. He may have the same cam, but maybe more compression which makes long duration cams run smoother. He may have more initial timing judging how it was hard starting Everyone said the TA413 cam was a rough idle and soft on the bottom, when I had it in my 350 it was big block strong on the bottom, and idled like an RV cam in a low compression engine (slight lope)
Sounds like the converter isn’t very efficient if you don’t start forward motion till 1400 rpm. Who’s converter is it? My JW converter is 3000 stall and I can start rolling at 1000 rpm, VERY efficient for a 9.5” converter
Right! I have the stock that really seemed to work fine. I was convinced by a speed shop I needed the looser converter because the one I had was holding the engine back causing the rough Idle.
I really don't remember to be honest. Whatever it is I really would just like to pull it out, just need to find time to drop the exhaust, tranny and swap.
I'm still thinking it's a carb issue & would start there & eliminate it as a variable. As Mart said, it might fix the overheating. Then cooling after that & a converter. Is it possible that the (inefficient) converter is causing the trans to run too hot & the trans cooler is transferring that to the coolant & causing the overheating?
Im still going to plan on having the carb rebuilt taking into account the current configuration to rule that out as well. And I doubt the overheating being caused by the converter. It behaves about the same as it used to with the stock converter.
Try putting your quick fuel back on I actually have this exact problem because I am running a stock converter. But I have a smooth idle until its dropped into gear. With your loose converter you should have a smooth idle in and out of gear. I'm not saying it should be as smooth as stock but fairly smooth. But if you are having sputtering you are not getting enough idle fuel. I am seriously convinced of this. I have been through three carburetors trying to figure out how to make the 284 cam more streetable. I do not believe the characteristics of this cam are described correctly on the TA website. Other guys have had trouble with this cam. I have an afr gauge with oxygen sensors in both exhaust pipes. Every carburetor I've tried has ran best with a rich idle and semi rich jetting. Your carb is probably too lean but maybe gets enough fuel at wide open not to ping. And have you made sure that every spark plug is firing?
I literally just went out and shot this video. I have not started it for two or three months. Cold starts are typically a little better than this especially if I'm driving it periodically throughout the week. I have a little tuning left to do. But good drivability and cold starts are possible with the right carb setup. I have it where I want it everywhere except for wide open. I am a little too rich at wide open throttle. But that's an easy fix.
I would like to know what this motor has for cranking compression when hot. My notion is that this Cam regardless of the converter is just trapping too little cylinder pressure at low rpm due to the overlap to pump out the exh gasses. This and the overlap needing the idle and likely part throttle jetting you be richer is just making the motor run hot. I am willing to bet that your compression test when you do it does not even turn up 160 psi, and that flat out will not work for you!
You know that’s possible. I could do a compression test next time I take it out and get it up to temperature. What type of compression do you think I would need to have for that type of cam? So essentially youre saying the motor could be over cammed?
Reidk.. Dude youre the man. This video is great thank you for taking the time to make it. After watching the whole thing I can definitely say your motor warming up runs much better, sounds stronger and has a much lower idle than mine. I cant do it until next weekend, but when I can get some time to take the car out I will take a video of the start up, idle and a little warm up ride until I can show the behavior of the motor warmed up at idle. Do you know what your compression ratio is? maybe 2 Af meters would be the way to go as well for tuning purposes, but thats a little bit of work when I dont have a welder on hand to weld in the bungs
I would go back and check the number on the carb and see if it is for a 350 Buick. The convertor is not going to make the engine run rough only the engine can make it run rough Overheating is either a crappy rad, bad thermostat, or toomuch timing. It should not overheat. I know the TA 510 cam I used Idled all day long at 750 rpm in drive and never overheated sat at 180 After driving at 3 grand on the highway for an hr went to 190 and no more
I have pretty much the same build as you, mine has custom JE pistons that raised the compression to 9:1. That cam is a bit lumpy yes, mine used to stall when it was hot, I turned up the idle a bit and it cured it. My idle is definitely high according to what is written but it works and doesn’t feel overly high. My quadrajet acts exactly the same way as yours when cold. Mine was rebuilt and converted to electric choke after I went with the TA intake, I swear my choke is not functioning properly but haven’t really got to deeply into it yet, it’s definitely annoying when I first pull it out of the garage, but as soon as I get it warmed up and get on the road it’s fine. I have to hold maybe 1/4 throttle when starting, hot or cold, just the nature of it. Mine runs on the hot side like yours, it’s not a thermostat issue, I truly believe that I new rad will fix it but not in the budget right now so in the mean time I drive and enjoy it. I get nervous in traffic when she starts climbing around 220 like you said but as soon as I get moving she cools down a bit. She runs around 195 on hot days in the summer even when cruising but been that was forever. I have a new work truck that runs 220 all day long and we don’t think twice about it, I thing we are just really watching and nervous about our old cars. Just drive and enjoy her and her quirks. Just my opinion
