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Throw out bearing question

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by Deogi2, Oct 24, 2022.

  1. Deogi2

    Deogi2 GSX - #380

    I have a resurfaced flywheel with a new clutch/pp/bearing with 1,200 miles. clutch fork, bell housing ball and bushings all new on zbar and pivot. When cold and pedal fully engaged I get a rattle/wine, once released a little it stops. Once car is barely warmed up, no noise. Adjustment on pedal as manual suggests 3/4” pedal play. Car shifts perfectly. Thinking either bad bearing or worn input trans bearing retainer. It’s been like this since I put it all together and time to fix. Either way going to pull trans.

    Any recommendations on bearing? Preferably something made stateside but know that’s a stretch. I’ve seen self aligning with a pin or hump to stop rotating. Not sure if one is better than other.

    thanks,
     
    Dano likes this.
  2. Deogi2

    Deogi2 GSX - #380

    Hi, Started to look into a little further. Shouldn’t all the fingers on the pressure plate be touching the entire bearing at initial engagement? Could this be causing the intermittent noise when cold and pedal fully depressed.

    6FC7F228-3E8D-4F75-8238-9075F36505DB.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2022
  3. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    How much was machined off of the flywheel? You may need a shim between the flywheel and crank. I've always had bad luck with machined flywheels. I could never get a good clutch pedal, but it was with a hydraulic clutch, not a cable.
     
  4. Ziggy

    Ziggy Well-Known Member

    That assembly shouldn't make noise, not sure of the cause. The finger contact is a problem. The clutch has to come apart to figure out why the fingers aren't contacting the TO bearing equally. The cause of the noise might show itself then.
     
    TrunkMonkey and Deogi2 like this.
  5. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    I have seen fingers do that if the pressure plate is not torqued correctly. (and in some cases the pressure plate was poorly assembled or damaged in shipping/handling)

    It must be installed with a centering tool, and then all bolts installed loose, and evenly finger tightened until all are just making contact, and then a half turn in the standard cris/cross pattern until (finger) snug, then sneak up on the final torque in 5 LB increments.

    If you did that and it still looks like that, you will likely have chatter and sometimes a "grabby" engagement. It can also lead to hot spots depending on how "out of plane" the contact/friction areas are.
     

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