1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Upper rad hose being sucked closed when engine is warm, motor revs?

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Canadian GS 350, Jan 13, 2021.

  1. Canadian GS 350

    Canadian GS 350 Well-Known Member

    Guys, any ideas why this is happening when engine is running, warm. If you rev it when temp is 200, the upper hose starts to collapse. I have a new TA performance 180 t stat. New 5 blade water pump, running a/c pulleys....I put a spring in lower rad hose, it seems fine. Thanks, Brad
     
  2. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

    Check radiator cap.
     
    1973gs and GSX 554 like this.
  3. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    X 2
     
  4. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    [Edited]
    Rad cap first, but the second thing is a plugged hose for the overflow. Third would be an aged/degraded upper hose. Fourth would be a suspect thermostat.

    Any problems with overheating?
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  5. Canadian GS 350

    Canadian GS 350 Well-Known Member

    New acdelco rc27 being picked up Friday. Since installing a temp gauge, I’ve noticed temps in the 215 range at times. I have a new TA 180 t stat, 7 blade clutch fan and shroud. What I witnessed yesterday, upper hose sucked closed when I rev the engine when the t stat should be open (gauge at 200) is a first for me. Once the hose relaxes, you can see temp drop.
    I hope new rad cap is cure. If not, I’m buying a good quality upper hose next.
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    If your coolant temperature is not within 10* of your thermostat, you have a deficiency in your cooling system.
     
    ranger and john.schaefer77 like this.
  7. BYoung

    BYoung Stage me

    If the problem with the hose collapsing began after you installed the t-stat then I would start with the t-stat.
     
  8. Canadian GS 350

    Canadian GS 350 Well-Known Member

    It’s a weird one for me.......I use a system called “air lift” when filling. The tool creates a vacuum of the system, refills itself by sucking the coolant into the system by the vacuum created.

    After I try the rad cap, if it solves issue....great.....if not, new rad hose, will check position of t stat when changing rad hose.

    Never seen an upper hose suck shut while engine is operating.
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    The radiator cap maintains pressure in the system. If there was pressure in the system, the hose would not collapse.
     
    ranger likes this.
  10. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Edited my prior post to include a plugged overflow hose. The radiator hose can't "suck" shut without low pressure in the system, and the overflow hose has to flow in order for the vacuum-relief valve in the cap to relieve vacuum.

    How do you create vacuum? Engine is hot, coolant pressure gets relieved via the rad cap. Then engine RPM increases, air flow increases, and the temp drops a little. Lower temp...lower pressure.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2021
  11. Canadian GS 350

    Canadian GS 350 Well-Known Member

    I just took the overflow hose off....perfectly clear. Heading down to GM to get the ACdelco RC27 cap......the other cap was a 13 lb “S” ....made in Mexico cap.....
     
  12. Canadian GS 350

    Canadian GS 350 Well-Known Member

    E7D857CD-AF04-43FC-9B8C-FC7B826CEAC6.jpeg 947C8002-E7B9-47B7-967F-35296535621A.jpeg 114CB935-6488-45A3-A6A7-3F8B8C139561.jpeg 7DC93C2F-CCF5-477B-942E-E6754A001755.jpeg Put the new acdelco rc27 cap on, a new hose from rad to overflow tank, drove it Friday afternoon.
    - could not duplicate collapsing upper rad hose....so that was good.
    - coolant temps for the most part stayed between 175-190 once warmed up (180 t stat)

    I may be watching the gauge too much.....it seems very responsive to fluctuations as the system cools the car. I have the transducer mounted in the intake where the vacuum tcs used to be.

    See pics of old cap versus new.

    For sure big improvement
     
  13. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

    Great news. Glad it was an easy one.
     
    Clarkie likes this.

Share This Page