Ive had a 72 Skylark for about 6months or more now, Doesnt LOOK like its great shape, but theres hardly any rust at all(other than one of the rear fender edges, and minor surface rust, but all the floors, mounts, and important stuff are fine). Like someone had posted early, mine runs low oil pressure at idle, once its warmed up, When i start it in the morning its around 30..driving goes inbetween 25-35, After it gets warm, when it idles it goes down to 5psi though. It does this reguardless of what oil weight i use. Ill look into the shims, my question about this is kinda retarded, but ive had the car for 6months with this problem..and im sure its been like that since way before i got the car with 225k orignal miles, never been rebuilt...but Im planning on rebuilding it, or replacing it in the future..So is it worth messing with? 2ndly Im in college and broke, but im going to rebuild this damn car, Not looking for a 10sec street car, I just want to be able run 13s, and get REASONABLE mileage(i drive about 250 highway miles a week, it gets 8mpg now..So reasonable to me is about 10-12 ) So, Im basically looking for cheapest way to do it, as in like....should i keep the 350, or go 455..since parts cost about the same..But id have to find a 455. or a Chevy 350(yeah i know...but im poor) ANd last, Whats the best sounding exhaust to go with? I NEVER see buick V8s, let alone hear what sounds good. Im thinkin Flowmaster 40s right now..but hear Dynomax turbo mufflers sound just as good...What do you all think?
I got the dual flowmaster american thunder system on mine, sounds real nice... all my buddy's say it sounds badd a$$... 8MPG?!?!?!?!?!? You have something really wrong there. the lowest my car ever got was 12MPG stuck in traffic for 1 1/2 going thru new york (on my way to oklahoma actually...). And my car has a burnt valve, so one cylinder isn't working 100%(prolly working 10%), but still sucking the gas... the rest of the trip I got 15-16 MPG... averaging 80MPH, and the peddle all the way down to get to 80.... if I didn't have the burnt valve it would prolly be 18MPG.... As for the oil pressure thing... could be things are just plain worn out. I guess if thing are worn wear oil is being pushed, there is no restriction so oil pressure will be low... just a thought... I think a 455 would be the cheapest/easiest way to go, and you should be able to get 12-13 MPG with it I think. 455 can be found real easy. Walk into any junkyard and you'll find them... the 350 can get you into the 13's, but would take alot more work than the 455...
well, you probably have something with it being worn, which could explain the 8mpg lol...That and the Holley 2bbl could probably use a rebuild..Its just really hard to put money into a 2bbl carb. the valvetrain sounds..well, like a Train too. But its runnin on all 8 cyclinders some how. And about the 455... Theres a site called www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com, they have rebuilt Buick 455s long blocks for the Stage 1 Vin..(im guessin its built to those specs?) for i think $1499, they can put perfomance parts on it as well. I think it comes with a 70k warrenty. Sounds like a good to me, but lol, im worried it just "sounds" like a good deal. anyone ever tried them?
Don't sweat your oil pressure. With that many miles if you are getting anything over 0 at idle your safe... Optimally you would want more but as long as the pressure goes up as soon as the rpm's do you are in the green. Btw, Jim Burek can get you a nice built 350 that may put your car into the high 13's depending on cam choice and rear gear. If your car has a 2.56 or 2.76 13's are going to be hard, even with a 455... The whole car makes you go 13's, not just the engine... Many people seem to forget that... Dan
haha. oh it'll get gears, Not sure what it has now..feels like 3.08s, but i guess you really cant tell by feel lol..It does kick pretty good. But that open rear ends gotta go, So im plannin on an Eaton Posi with 3.73, as far as Cam, No idea. im a long ways away from being able to afford anything..So its all just wishing thinking right now.
If you want a 350 to rebuild I have several good cores you could buy one cheap and put it together and then still be driving around with the old one. Im not far from OKey if interested email me
If I was alittle closer, Mikey, I would take you up on those...... I cleaned out the garage and even have room now. Mike
Rebel, you might look into building a fairly strong Buick 350 out of the core you have, then maybe some 3.73s or 3.64s, and match all of that up to a 200-4R overdrive tranny out of a late model Monte SS or GN. I would think mid 13s would be pretty easy with that combo, and you could probably get 15mpg or better even with those gears. Just something to look into.:bglasses:
72 2brl should have 2.56 gears... but believe me, they feel like 3.55's! The 350 buick has crazy low end... I remember seeing the stock torque for a 2 brl 350 peeks at like 2K.... But it should have a rochester 2 brl, not a holley, unless it was replaced.
8mpg, I never got that low even when I first got mine. Cheap things that will help: Full tune-up and rebuild of the carb. That alone should get you at least 10mpg. Factory is a Rochester 2VG, I dunno bout that Holley stuff.. I figure that should run you at most $40 if you do everything yourself. If you wanna go $100, nab a K&N filter and flip the lid on your aircleaner. :Brow: my thoughts..
yeah its time for a tune-up, and oil change, lol i have no money at ALL right now. just got a tag, insurance, car got hit last month, i dont have full coverage, so i had to fix it (new upper control arm) which...If anyone has an extra left fender laying around:Brow: The car got around 12mpg when i got it...Im starting to think its a gas leak though, cause i lost 1/8 of a tank overnight according the gauge...But the gauge likes to move around alot, so its hard to tell lol What spark plugs/wires do you all use?, and have any of you tried that Ignitor(?) points replacement.. I'll switch to HEI when i replace the motor..but that might be a ways away.
Oh yeah, as far as the carb thing..theres no tag on the carb, but theres a holley 2bbl manual in the glovebox, and theres a fire spot on the hood right over the carb..so, Im guessing its got a holley
Ouch about the fenderbender. :eek2: If there is a gas leak, hope it on the tank side of things. The gauge in mine like to move in stop-n-go traffic unless it's damn near full. There's ways to test your sender, use the search function and look for fuel sender. You'll find some good tips. Plugs always ACDelco, stock is AC-R45TS. Wires, used to use ACDelco as well, but now have wireset from Pertronix. Seems okay. Ppl seem to like the Accel wire sets also. Ignitor.. I have both the LSC unit and the Ignitor II setup. Sometime next week I'll have the LSC setup up for sale. They worked quite well for me and saved the hassle of new point and dwell changing all the time. The carb.. If your carb looks like one from here then it's a Holley. If it looks like something from here then it's a Rochester. hope that helps
well, bad news. Just crusin on a back road, get a ticket for doing 70 in a 55, while im pulled over..ton of smoke comes from the transmission...Just filled it up too...still shifts..but Because i cant afford to pay insurance and the ticket...(have alot of other debts right now as well) car is going to have to be parked for awhile. really sucks. No choice though.
