I see a lot of folks doing the disc brake conversion. What do they do with the stuff they take off ... I always like Buick finned drums. I'm keeping mine - no dust, no stains to scrub off the wheels Just curious. Is it like old socks, they go to a special place ...
I am quite sure that many of them have been overseas now, returned to their pre-drum state, top be formed into new products currently on sale at discount stores across the country.. Most folk scrap out the stuff.. I know that when I moved the shop, I sold 6 tons worth of it, more than a couple drum brake setups were included. I did always keep the big finned aluminum stuff. That's what's on the front of my 68.. JW
Are the spindles worth anything (drum spindles) once you did the conversion? I now have the drum setup sitting on my garage floor and need input on what to do with it, because they are never going back on the car again. Mark
just for the record, the aluminum drums can be re-lined. JG Relining cuts the old liners out, trues up the aluminum, repairs any broken fins and presses a new liner in. Last time I checked it was $265 each. Im planning on sending mine out as they're oversize. One is 120 overou::eek2:
Re2: What happens to old drums?? Well, if anyone has any 9.5x2.5 finned iron drums that are useable (not oversized), I could use a few to practice on. I'll pay shipping. I have three high temp coatings (aluminum, black, & gold) that I'd like to practice application on. I figure if I can get the iron clean and the paint works, it'll work on other iron too Brake drums always surface rust easily, so they're my candidate of choice for testing. I'll swap them onto the 1970 GS to see how they hold up to brake heat. It'll take a while to get the results, but I'm game
The Old Tyme hot rodders love the aluminum drums. The polish up real nicely and are even used to hide disk brakes underneath. Mine will be for sale on the HAMB when they come off of the '63 LeSabre and the disk conversion goes on..
I have a pile of the GS/Sport Wagon aluminum drums.Some are oversize some have broken fins.I find it really interesting that these will replace the rear drums on a Vista Cruiser wagon from 71 or 72.What are these drums really worth?I have at least one set that are as is usable.Steel and aluminum don't mix but if you don't put them in adverse conditions that minimizes conflict.Mine are for sale and I don't know what to ask.Input requested.Tks,Bill
I would like to inform all,the Buick drum will retro fit the 64-69 GTO.most relevant to the stopping power.they work beautifully.
I have 3 pairs of front 12 in by 2 and 1/4 aluminum finned drums, and 2 pairs of 12in by 2 in finned steel rear drums. I rotate them every brake job. The front ones are getting very thin. Im wondering what happens when you wear through the steel lining and start digging into the aluminum. At least the wheel studs are pressed through the hub so I know the wheel will stay attached. Should be interesting if I get that far.
Thin or what is referred to as oversize drums, are a real safety item. Because the lining has been machine past its maximum diameter, the full surface of the brake shoe doesn't fully contact the drum. Only the middle of the friction material contacts the drum. So 75% of the shoe is basically un-used, thus making for very poor stopping. Its probably why everyone says "drums suck" and replaces them.
No kidding , I just and am going through my brakes while the motor is out, I noticed one side, right front was worn to the rivit, front right still had 50% OR MORE SHOE LEFT. Ha front right, right front......errr left front. On the rear the drivers side was worn bad butt the pass side looked like the good front one. I was only pretty much stopping with opposite corners and didnt notice . Car did not pull either way at all. I found everything but drums at Rockauto. Ounce im rolling again I will have to take a look and see how things are wearing. I want to see as much shoe as possible getting contact. Hopefully at that point arching the shoes a little will help.
Most people that say "drum suck" probably never drove a car with fully functional 4 wheel drums. I've never rear ended anyone in my Skylark, but I have had someone rear end me when my drum brakes stopped just in time (to avoid accident) and their disc brakes did not.
Yes, but after that, your drums need adjusting again to remain in top shape. And that's why most people have never drove a fully functional 4 wheel drum car, they are as mythical as unicorns. Disc are so brutally simple I can't imagine why anyone would screw with drums. Drum brakes are a Rube Goldberg device and I've hated them for 40 years. What with your adjusters, hold down pins, washers, springs of a half dozen varieties, strut, shoe guides, actuator link, actuator lever, retaining ring and all the other little parts. The guy that rear ended you didn't do it because his disc brakes failed, his mind failed to process the proper action. I'd bet 2:1 that disc will out stop drums every time and in half time when wet. I've never been more scare than when I hit a puddle and tried to stop my old drum brakes. I've swapped drum to disc every chance I get and have sold the take-offs for scrap iron.
Re3: What happens to old drums?? Well, I'm that other guy. I like drums. I like the look. I can see them through the fronts (ProStars) which is why I want to play with high temp coatings. See what works and what looks best ... The pins and springs don't bother me. I started wrenching before disks were even available on cars. I guess I have it sort of figured out ... The brakes are self adjusting, so if that is all working well, they don't need a lot of care. I pull them off for inspection every couple of years. Add some grease to the wheel bearings and adjust them when they go back. But well put together drums last for a decade as long as you are not road racing. No brake dust on the mags is a big plus for me. All my disk brake cars stain the mags and it's a bitch getting them clean, and constant work. The Buick is a project car. It's to new a body style, or it would get a straight axle and go Gasser. To be at all period correct, it should have finned aluminum Buick drums - at least out back with the pie-cut cheater slicks. Just like we used to build them back in the day. But, coated finned iron brakes will be OK as I don't plan on panic stopping from 120 any time soon. I may stop from that speed at the end of the strip, but there is plenty of room. On the street, no issues. I've never had a wet drum problem as long as I don't drive through standing water ... If I do, I just drag my left foot on the peddle for a bit and they dry right out
I have drums but i will say I like an antilock dixk brake sysem over an antilock drum system. I may be forced to go t disk as soon as I wear through my linings. Wheele cylnders tend to leak more than calipers, but cylnders are cheaper.
you can make drum ones into disc ones real simple. just have to cut one thing down gm did it from the factory.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84690&page=2 http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/drum-brake-spindles-modified-discs-56056.html
So are they worth trying to sell or are there enough out there that it's easier to scrap them.... Mark
Re4: What happens to old drums?? Finned aluminum are always worth $$. Finned iron, not so much. Replacements are only $60 or so. I guess I'll buy a pair of new fronts and use my old ones for experimenting ...
