What is the consensus on Glyptal?

What is the consensus on Glyptal?<o></o>
Has anyone used it, recommend it? Swear by it? Or swear at it?<o></o>
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http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034D1ZCM/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=18221970261&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3449475272093711667&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_6z2vjx9dkc_b<o></o>
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Thinking of using it on my current build
Was wondering what type of block prep is needed as well as any certain application requirements or techniques needed?
Perfect timing for someone to ask the question
Thanks
Good Day

 

Paint you don't put into the engine, can't flake off and get into the oil.

 

I can't really see an advantage to it on an engine, maybe it lets the oil slide back down quicker, but that is a stretch.

 

I find it interesting that Dave DUDECK,WHO BUILDS SOME OF THE BADDEST STOCK APPERAING STREET ENGINES AROUND ,when looking at his build threads,seems to use it in all his motors?
Must be something to it for a guy to build a BIG dollar motor and risk" running paint chips" in his oil :shock:

 

Look at the bigger picture. Are you saying that the average Joe is going to use surface prep and application methods that are at least as good as Dudeck's? If either of these steps go wrong, the end result absolutely CAN be lack of adhesion. This is a no-brainer. Schurkey is only pointing to a possible failure mode.

Next question...why worry about it for a street/strip BBB? What is the volume of oil that gets slowed during drainback because of poor boundary layer flow across a rough surface? A couple pints? Here's a tip, if you're not up to speed on prep and are concerned about the coating's adhesion and would rather not take any risk, add the couple pints of oil to the sump to begin with.

Devon

 

Im not implying anything
All i aid was that a certain individual is using it with, i assume success, so there may be something to it is all
As for proper technique to apply,thats why if you read my 1st post,i specifically asked what ,if any ,special steps were needed to use the product
And i assume the average guy,who knows enough to work on his own stuff,has the wherewithall to read some directions, and use the product correctly /as intended
People sure get uptight around these parts rather easily?

 

Nick, I think you have this backwards...of course I saw both posts of yours, which with the third makes it seem almost comedic that you were quick to get riled up by Shurkey's comment about the potential failure mode, like it was meant to be some kind of challenge, or something. Relax! I am.

If there are instructions on the can, sure you can take them at face value and go for it (what are they, anyway? Are there specifics about prep for cast iron engine internals?) If Dudeck or someone else has a better procedure and can tell you *why* it's better, go for it. This stuff isn't that tough. Don't beat down what may be positive input for goodness' sake.

Devon

 

A few hours work with a flapper disc smoothing out the valley will do the same thing and at least you dont risk having flakey paint in the oil.

 

Devon are you suggesting he overfill his engine a quart (2 pints ) of oil.

Bob H.

 

Emotion and tone arent easily read on the internet these days
Im as calm as can be most days that end in day,today included
I wasnt nor am i currently upset at all
I merely stated that someone is using it with what i presume to be success
But i too can read o No:,and ive yet to read one single post here by someone who has actually used it themselves,yet we have opnions being given as to why it may not be a good idea?

I dont take what i read as gospel,nor to I dismiss the possibilities of what i havent read yet :TU:

---------- Post added at 12:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:56 PM ----------

Great for windage :bla:

 

I wouldn't care to offer a specific quantity, but that's the gist of it.

Not great, not bad, either, since the function of the glyptal is to smooth the surfaces of the block for drainback. If X volume of oil is held by the rough surface of the block, it's not in the sump. If X volume is not in the sump and not on the reciprocating assembly, it doesn't contribute to windage. That X volume of clinging oil is doing the same job the glyptal would.

Probably all moot considering the forum the question was posted in (street/strip). :grin:

Devon

 

Love Gyptal for painting starter armatures..

But that's as close as it get's to the inside of one of my motors.

I personally believe that it's use inside of engines was "invented" to "pretty up" cast iron that is not photogenic. Clean maybe, but not real nice looking. What one would typically see when the motor is hot tanked, but not blasted.

Same line of thought as painting auto transmission cases... "OH, it's so they don't corrode."

That's a load of crap... it's because the builder didn't want to spend the time, or didn't have the equipment, to properly clean the case. The paint's main purpose is appearance.

When I mention that clear paint does just as good a job sealing up the alum trans case, to these folks, I typically just get back blank stares..

Do the work... if your worried about oil return, polish the valley, and leave the paint in the can.

I have seen it peel off, plug a pickup, and be a contributing factor to engine failure.


JW

 

X2 I once saw the results of Glyptal peeling off in one big ugly sheet ... it stayed in the intake valley but so did the oil ! I would spend a little extra time on block prep with sanding cones etc.

ick

 

Prep is everything but why chance it.

 

In the older days it was used for oil drain back. The bigger difference is helping to keep the oil off the rotating crank. I haven't looked at a 400/430/455 head in a long time, but I'd be willing to bet that if you could get the oil from the heads to flow to the rear of the head instead of just draining down into the valley, there would be a HP increase there. I remember seeing an old 318 Mopar that was idling at 600 RPM's with a clear oil pan on it. At an idle it looked like cotton candy. Brought the engine up to 1500 RPM's & you couldn't see the crank for all the oil being thrown around. Now, who knows, maybe they purposely flooded the top end with oil to make the effects more dramatic, I don't know. There must be a reason for the Pro-Stock guys to route ALL the upper oil directly to the pan. It's said it's worth 75-100 HP.
Just my 2c worth.


Tom T.

 

The big block heads have one drainback hole at each end (because the heads can be used on either bank), so the rearmost hole does the work due to the engine's installed angle plus the effects of acceleration. Regardless, that's a relatively small amount of oil coming into the rear of the lifter valley having run mine with a with a cover off. I'd expect the most oil comes from what's thrown up by the crankshaft past the camshaft at higher rpm.

In the late '80's I fought low pressure that came on suddenly at high rpm with my 436 and center sump situation, even with a rear baffle and 5/8" pickup because the pickup was running dry. After I spun 7 & 8, for the next build I deburred and polished the lifter valley and main webs. I painted the inside of the block with Rustoleum "Rusty Brown" Primer (which adhered very well, thanks very much!). I still had the starvation issue at the top of 1st gear.

Put the 462 together with no deburring and no paint, but deepened the sump 1.5" and lengthened the pickup to match. Problem gone with the same 5 quarts of oil, same front cover and oil pump setup, same bearing clearances. Since then I added the TA front cover and an oil accumulator for insurance.

Here's the pretty deburred 436 with the Rustoleum:



Devon

 

Thanks to all who answered with their results :TU:
Even you Devon lolp

 

Pleased to have chimed in. I wish I had some direct experience with Glyptal to offer. :TU:

Devon