What to buy for "Just A Bit More Power"?

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by NSBound, Nov 24, 2006.

  1. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    I am thinking about buying my Christmas present to myself :TU: and am thinking I'd like just a bit more power. My car is as simple as they get - a 70 Skylark Custom convertible with a 350, 2-bbl carb, all OE. I do not race, and as my questions may prove, I am not technically inclined, so what I get has to be reliable and not need a lot of tuning or repeated adjusting.

    OK, so much for the background, now for the advice request! What I'm thinking is a TA Performance Stage 1 intake manifold, mated to an Edelbrock Performer carb. Is this a reasonable direction to go? And as far as this carb, will a 600 CFM do me (TA's website says it's good for up to 325 hp) or should I go for the 750? And, do I want manual or electric choke? What's the difference in how they work, as far as driver requirements go?

    I contacted TA and their reply was this "we can provide a Stage 1 4bbl conversion kit, which includes intake manifold, carburetor, mounting plate, gaskets, PCV grommet, PCV valve, heater hose connection, thermostat, bypass hose, bolts and chrome aircleaner." Does this sound l,ike a good direction to you? Any and all comments, observations or suggestions would be appreciated! :)
     
  2. carbineone

    carbineone Well-Known Member

    I am no real expert in this field with afetrmarket stuff,but I believe a stock rochester 4 is probably 750 CFM to begin with and would be a much more reliable carb to boot.In my opinion I would just stay with a stock intake and carb,maybe someone else can tell you better but thats what I would do.Will be alot cheaper swap too.You could probably pick up a 4 Barrel intake and carb for less than 100.00.
     
  3. evil16v

    evil16v Midwest Buick Mafia

    Like Bruce said... If you can find a stocker 4 bbl intake and carb that would be the cheap way to go. If ya spend some time and a few dollars at eh hardware store it could look pretty too. Not sure what ya want or what your skills are. An intake swap is usually pretty simple. if you have to get in to the carb to rebuild it... that will be a consideration.
    I have never been a big fan of those carbs... but, It sounds like real kit form deal and that carb would probably do what ya want it to out of the box. You'll want the electric choke. It's easy to set up. just run a to a switched 12volt source (only hot with key on). the manual means just that. there is a cable with it to run to under the dash. you pull the knob and you have choke. I don't think you would want that.
    The sp1 Would be a real good place to start for a little performance. You can build from that point if you wanted more later.
     
  4. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the thoughts, Bruce & Rob. I'm still thuinking about it all. Maybe the OE intake is a good way to go. Like you say, though, getting a good carb and then having to get it rebuilt may be a bit of a pain. ......... :Do No: :Do No:
     
  5. 71GS455

    71GS455 Best Package Wins!

    If you want to go with a 4 bbl carb, I agree with the above - get a stocker. The aluminum would be nice, but for the additional cost it may not be worthwhile.

    For an improved "feel" without any horsepower difference, I'd recommend having your rear end rebuilt with a set of deeper gears (and a posi).

    If your 70 is equipped in the rear like my 72 (which also came with a 350 2bbl), then your gearing could be something like 2.56:1 or 2.73:1 (not sure of the 8.2 ratios). I recommend you check to see what it actually is.

    Going to a 3.42:1 ratio would make a huge difference in the feel of the car. The expense is the top speed, which would be reduced. But unless you find yourself going 120 a lot, that doesn't really matter.

    To check the ratio, jack up the rear end (support with jackstands under the differential tubes and wheel chocks up front). Put the car in neutral. Have on person at the wheel and another person under the car. Have the wheel person slowly turn the tire a complete rotation while the person under the car counts the driveshaft rotations. If it turns about 2.5 rotations, then you've got a 2.56 ratio (if that was what the 8.2 rear used). If it goes about 2.75 rotations, then you've got 2.73's. If it makes just about 3 rotations, then it would have 2.93's (?). If it goes just over 3, then you're looking at 3.08's.

    This will let you know where you're starting from there.
     
  6. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    Thanks, Steve, for the condensed lesson! :TU: I appreciate the pointers. I think I'll do just what you suggest, to see where I'm starting from. So far, everyone seems to be recommending stock intake and stock 4-bbl carb!! Looks like I may end up over in the "Parts Wanted" category if I start looking.
     
  7. 71GS455

    71GS455 Best Package Wins!

    Ian,
    I went to the cardomain page. Your convert doesn't have a 1970 rear bumper on it. Did you know that?
     
  8. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I know.... :Dou: :Dou: ....seems you keep learning about these things! I bought the car a couple of years ago, and that bumper was on it. Not that I mind, I kind of like its look, plus now I've had it rechromed and it's in nice shape. The fact that it is a '72 bumper (I think?) was mentioned to me awhile ago by TimR in Alberta when I was buying a clock from him. I think most of the rest of the car is more or less stock.
     
  9. bobc455

    bobc455 Well-Known Member

    A 3.42 with a 200-4R transmission is my favorite combination.

    How often do you drive the car? What sort of budget do you have? Another possibility is the 4-barrel conversion with a cam and headers (especially headers). And maybe an x-pipe. Oh yeah, that's the ticket. Right there.

    -Bob Cunningham
     
  10. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    Bob, now you've got me thinking, but more futuristically, I think! I'd like to convert to a dual exhaust, and that may come next spring. but for now I think the 4-barrel conversion is my limit. Headers? Maybe...... Budget is somewhat of an issue, but not the biggest thing. I just don't want to dump a ton of money into a car that won't see the value, maybe just kind of dress her up to dance! I think for now I'll keep an ear to the ground around here for an intake and 4-barrel carb that doesn't need a lot of rebuilding attention, if such a thing exists!
     
  11. apollo 1

    apollo 1 Well-Known Member

    Hi Ian
    If you like I could check a few junkyards around Moncton for you . I did find an intake and carb for myself last year .The carb had to be rebuilt and the intake cleaned up. But the price was right.Also on your quest for power a distributor timing recurve is probably one of the best bang for the buck ways to find hidden power and with the help from the guys on this site like Larry70GS aka the wizard it's very doable.This is Larry's thread on power timing
    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=63475
    If you still have points in your dist you could get an hei from a junk yard and recurve it . If it works for you it would be an excellent conversion for you .Let me know if you would like me to check things out for you.
     
  12. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    Mike, sent you a PM.
     
  13. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    If I was to recommend the one, single change to the car that would make the most difference with the least downside, that recommendation would be to shove in an automatic overdrive trans--the 200 4R mentioned a few posts before, since the bellhousing will bolt right up to your engine.

    Yeah, it's more expensive to install a fresh tranny than to do the carb 'n' manifold. The results would be so much more, though. Better acceleration, better fuel mileage, and just all-around more responsive and fun.

    The best recommendation for "lowest budget" is to verify that the distributor has a good timing advance curve (both centrifugal and vaccum advance) to suit your engine and driving style. It's not unusual for an engine to respond to a few extra degrees of timing, or for the timing to come in sooner than the factory curve.
     
  14. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the thoughts, Shurkey :TU: The tranny-rear upgrade is likely bit more than I want to go for right now. But just in case, and please forgive the ignorance, but what's a 200 4R found in, if I was to go looking for one?
     
  15. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    A salvage yard, or a tranny shop.

    Mid-80s cars with "not Chevy" engines. The best ones were behind turbo Buick engines--good luck finding one of them. The others can be modified to withstand the same power, it's just a touch more work.
     
  16. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    Great, thanks :TU:
     
  17. RAbarrett

    RAbarrett Well-Known Member

    If you are looking at a real treat, I suggest the dual exhaust, maybe w/headers, especially if the vehicle now has single exhaust. Not only will the vehicle sound better, but will respond better to the throttle. It will also provide the ground work for further conversions, including the rear gears, and possibly further engine treats. Do not scrimp here,and you will not require further mods here, regardless of future stuff, unless you go really rad. The fuel economy will likely improve as well, and that would really be a treat. Food for thought. Ray
     
  18. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    I think its all been said, but carb and intake wont show you too much performance unless you have a cam and heads to go with it. Its probably the cheapest upgrade to do, but you wont notice a whole lot of difference.

    Personally i think you should read over Larry(the wizards) powertiming thread, and maybe invest in an ignition upgrade. HEI, with a big coil, and really time the thing. Will be cheaper than a carb and intake, and you will notice a world of difference.

    If not, the rear end is a good idea. If you dont wanna mess around with rebuilding the rear-end, im sure you could find a used complete rear axle with a beefy gear.
    And finally, if not, i would upgrade the exhaust. Again the difference here is with what you are running now. If its a single setup with catalytic converter, and stock manifolds, then headers, duals, and even an X or H pipe will be awesome, with some flowmaster exhaust.

    Good luck, and make sure you post lots of pix. BTW, thats some beautiful scenery you got goin on at ur cardomain sight!
     
  19. GSXMEN

    GSXMEN Got Jesus?

    In addition to the 'non-Chevies'....they also came stock in the Monte SS. After a TR/GN tranny, this would be one of your best options.
     
  20. NSBound

    NSBound Well-Known Member

    Hi Ray and Azeem : Thanks for the added comments. The dual exhaust is something I have really been wanting so it is definitely on my list, almost at the top. I've searched other threads here too and then wandered around the various muffler shop web sites listening to what they all sound like, and based on all that and the comments of others on here too, I think a dual exhaust system with Walker Dynomax Super Turbos and an X-pipe is my direction. That will be ihappening n the spring, after the top-of-the-list items, the 4-barrel stock intake and quadrajet carb I recently obtained from board members here get installed. :laugh: :laugh: Azeem - yeah, the scenery here is just beautiful. Nothing better than a nice summer day, drive down the coast with the top down, cruisin! :bglasses:

    And Scott, thanks for the additional info on the tranny. That may still happen, we'll see what the others do first. Does it ever end??? :rolleyes:
     

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