First, I did my own alignment with tape measures and levels so all of this is subject to errors. I tried to set it to +5° caster and -1/2° camber with 1/16" toe in. It generally handles very well. However, after a 50 mile round trip to a car cruise at highway speeds, my car felt odd. When I turn left or right to change lanes, it felt vague with a delay off of center. I put it up on the lift and noticed the driver's side wheel bearing was a tad loose. Fixed that and greased it for good measure. While I was at it, I checked the gear box and adjusted it a 1/4 turn tighter. No binding through full motion and I really didn't feel it was that loose to begin with. I also checked all the tie rods, drag link, sway bar, idler arm, ball joints (not very old, very low mileage wise) and A-arm bolts. It has tubular upper and lowers that have greaseable nylon bushings. Nothing else was out of whack but it didn't remove the initial disconnected feeling. I even looked at the welds on the front of the frame after seeing a cracked picture in another thread. After the latest test drive, I got my tape measures and levels back out and found it had 1/8" toe out instead of my desired 1/16" toe in. I tightened the tie rods up 1/4 turn per side, which I guess is about 1/16" so I will likely still be 1/16" toed out. I haven't driven it yet as I needed to mow but I will tomorrow. I like to make small adjustments and test. Would toe out account for the spooky center drift? Once you got going, it really turned in nicely and stays planted in a curve. I can justify it in my mind that it would be a little darty feeling with both tires slightly outward. I think I read some Posey posts on the web about using toe out for road racing.