Yes it is an 800. I thought that was the one you were using also until I recently read you were using a 650.
I have the calibration kit and I'm going to try to do everything to make it work. I read on another Forum where the 800 CFM was a bit too much for a 350.
Sorry to bring up old stuff from earlier in this thread but is there anyway to figure out the actual compression ratio now that the engine is fully assembled? And can you rerun the calculations based off current information? Earlier You were estimating me at a little bit over 9 with a .024 head gasket. The head gasket was actually right at .020. And I had .020 shaved off the heads, and the cam was degreed to 109.5 which is close to the specs on the cam card. Pistons weren't far enough in the hole to be alarming. Maybe .050 to .060 at most. Pistons were low compression but not the real low compression ones that you attached a picture of.
The only way I know is to find someone with this machine, It's expensive, https://store.katechengines.com/whistler-compression-ratio-tester-p174.aspx Not sure how to find someone with one.
Pistons would be at .060 below deck. Unless you have a measurement of piston dish, there’s only 2 choices I’m aware of. 24 cc and 10 cc . Yes the .020 gasket is calculated at .020 since it will crush when torqued. I think my measurements where with .030 off head for a 50 cc chamber. You probably have 53-54. From what mark says about the single plane intake is that hesitation requires a pretty good accelerator pump to take the hesitation out. And the single plane is not exactly the match for the cam. So tuning will be an adventure for you as Mark is the only one I know with that experience.
It's killing me not being able to drive my car and tune the carb. we're getting six more inches of snow today on top of the 6in we got last week. Gonna be a while. After reading about H pipes and X pipes I think the H pipe will help my low end a little bit. Something I might clamp in place and get welded later. Reading and preparing to do whatever it takes to make this baby run the best. I've read a couple of threads where guys really like this cam but just took a while to get everything just right. As far as a single plane goes. I just keep going back to what they told me at TA and what TA claims on their website. With headers, higher compression, and a cam the single plane outperforms the dual plane across the whole rpm range. They cannot make a claim like that in writing if it weren't true. So whether it's a perfect match or not I still feel like the combo should be pretty good.
It should run well once you get it tuned correctly. That carburetor will be a bottleneck to limit your top end HP though. A Holley 750 double pumper would probably give you the best all around performance and be easiest to tune.
price of my project so far. i'm coming in around $5150 on everything under the hood. about another grand on suspension and audio system Ta performance: Front seal 10.95 .020 head gaskets 99.00 284-88h cam 260.00 Johnson hydraulic lifters 96 Stage 1 springs 75 Sp3 intake 435 Intake bolts 45 Water pump 36 Daul cam bearing 16 Air cleaner 30 Header gaskets 23 Valve cover gasket 16 Air cleaner decal 8 Coolant bypass hose 10 Chrome valve covers 77 Valve cover breather 26 Valve cover decal 14 Valve cover bolts 30 High performance silent timing set 115 Timing cover gasket 7 Reproduction radiatior hose clamps 17 ARP head bolts 85 Timing cover botls 47 Radiator hose 25 Thermostat housing and gasket 31 Composite intake gaskets 20 Oil pan gasket 15 New dipstick 66 5/8 oil pick up tube 30 Total from TA: $1888.55 after tax Summit Racing: Edelbrock AVS2 carb 405 Carb calibration kit 62 Hei recurve kit 7 Fuel line kit 80 Fuel pump 28 Hei Distributor and wire 242 Accell 8mm plug wires 66 Heat shield sleeve 24 Starter blanket 28 Bits to port heads 80 Total from summit: $1093.54 Amazon.com gear reduction starter $66 Ebay Hooker super comp headers $350 Oreilly auto parts: 10 quarts of oil 36 2 wix filters 12 Lucas zinc additive x2 40 2 gallons antifreeze 28 Redi sleeve for harmonic balance 34 Carb studs 16 Wire loom 3.50 Block cleaning supplies 40 Gauge kit 45 Heater core 35 Total from Oreilly: $309.76 Autozone: 1 stock pushrod 2.50 Brake cleaner 2.50 Aluminum radiator 115 Copper oil tube kit 15 Spectre air filter 30 exhaust clamps, header reducers, rtv 65 total from autozone: $246 Machine shop work: Exhaust seats 32 Valve seals 25 Clean heads 80 Magnaflux heads 60 Install exhaust seats 120 Match exhaust seat to port 40 Grind valves 140 Resurface heads 2 sides 240 Cut for valve seals 50 Clean rocker shafts 10 Change front cam bearing 20 Degree cam 110 Install heads, check pushrod length 180 Shop supplies 40 Total at machine shop: $1227 Napa auto parts: Spark plugs 19 Fuel line, power steering fluid, brake clean 20 Total from Napa auto parts: $39 Total top end engine overhaul: $5153 Body and suspension mods: Rear sway bar from summit 140 Front sway bar from summit 150 Front shocks 80 Interior mods Usa 740 stereo 350 Kicker speakers 109 Boom mats/spacers 35
I ran the car for about 20 minutes tonight. it almost sounds like I have a lifter tick. I used Johnson lifters from TA. hopefully its nothing major. I reused the rockers and rocker shafts. could those be noisy if they are worn? Is the 288-84h enough of a cam to be noisy? Spark plug noise from running lean?
If you have the aluminum rockers, they will wear grooves into the shafts. So they can cause noise. Did you change break in oil yet? Did you change pushrod length? Spark knock at idle seems unlikely
I did change break in oil. I had the glittery look from the cam lube. Nothing else. I refilled with regular oil not synthetic and I used Lucas zinc additive. I have original 1970 rocker shafts. Car only had 77k so figured they were good. Never even looked at them really. Pushrod length is the same. The machinist checked preload. He even said I could have taken more off the head and been fine. Seems like there was a tick before rebuild. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the shafts making the noise. I have oil pressure between 25 and 50 psi never lower than that.
Its probably the Rockers , most likly worn.... but for peace of mind i would just re-torque the shafts
Well I would look at them if they fairly dry I'll reuse them. But I'm a guy that works with what I have...lol
Just put valve covers back on same side removed from. The gaskets take a "set" to head rail shape. As long as they're not torn or coming apart, bolt them back on.
They usually only make noise if worn on shaft so bad that pre-load is lost. Adjustable pushrods would dial your pre-load in on every rocker, worn or not.
I would run it . It’s not very loud? Just a light tap? Try some marvel mystery oil or trans fluid. Maybe just alittle dirt got in something. 1/2 quart of trans or 1/4 marvel.
No it's not very loud. Ive listened to some lifter tick type noise videos on this website that were way worse. I actually am going to try and tighten the center bolt on the headers... you know the lower one that's pretty difficult to get to? Maybe it's not tight enough.
My calibration kit and recurve Springs came today. But I'm Not going to touch anything until my larger accelerator pump nozzle comes. Should be here mid week
2 weeks has gone by. The roads have been cleared for over a week but my driveway is about 300 feet long and is the only thing stopping me from test driving my car. The first 200 feet of my driveway is on a hill and is still solid ice. I have the carb tuned to be pretty rich. After I installed the bigger jets and bigger accelerator pump nozzle I noticed tremendous improvement on cold starts. Response seems great but the car is not under load. If it doesn't run the way I was hoping I have options. I can advance the timing back to 12 or 13 degrees, adjust my accelerator pump for a bigger squirt, play with secondary air valve spring, smaller metering rod, and step up springs. jetting right now is close to the 750cfm performer.
