I've gotten the frame down to bare metal. I treated it with "Right Stuff" metal treatment (doesn't say to wash off). After 24 hrs I get a white powder residue in alot of areas on the frame. I sanded them off and tried again same thing happened. Sanded again applied solution then wiped off same thing. I also tried the Behr rust treatment same thing happened but much more white powder. What is this white powder and how do I prevent it. I plan on put Master Series silver over it but I can't see paint over powder staying on. Thanks
Let the product cure.....the white residue is nothing to worry about.....use a stiff plastic brush to remove it. Next, use some lacquer thinner to wipe down the frame to make it ready for primer and/or paint.
..that is where the treatment likely puddled and left a residue...I've heard it referred to as "over phosphating" the metal. But don't worry..that's just some fancy technical term for the residue that some of these type metal preps leave on the metal. Like George said....brush it off of there. Wherever there is powder you will not get great paint adhesion since the powder is a "loose" film between your topcoat and the metal underneath. One thing you might consider is to let the stuff sit on the metal awhile and react and then wipe it off while still wet to help remove some of the excess (do it in sections so you don't get "ahead of yourself" while applying the metal prep....treat, wait, wipe off excess and then move on the another section). Another option to applying it is to apply it to the metal however you are putting it on, get some chemical gloves and some Scotchbrite pads and scrub the metal surface while it's wet with the metal prep...then towel if off and let dry. You could also use some Red or Grey Scothbrite pads to remove some of the residue on larger areas. If you have access to compressed air get a air blower gun and go over the frame after you have brushed it off to help blow off any dust, etc. Take your time...it sounds like you are being pretty thorough.
I had a similar situation when I restored my gas tank a couple years ago. After wire-brushing it, I applied Eastwood's Oxy-solve to eat what little rust there was. Per the instructions, I rinsed thoroughly afterwards. No matter how many times I rinsed and scrubbed it, when it dried there was a white powder on it. This was especially unacceptable since I planned on clear-coating the tank to retain the natural steel look. The solution was to lightly sand the tank by hand until all the white powder was gone. Worked great; after shooting with a clear enamel, it looks like a brand new tank. I don't know if that helps your frame situation.
The white powder is the result of the phosphorus reduction reaction to the iron oxide (rust). Here is what I do. The first time, apply your solution undiluted just like you did. You will after it dries, get the white residue. Repeat this undiluted process until all the rust has been converted by using a wire brush during each application. Then as a last step dilute your solution at about 30% or so with Distilled Water and apply rubbing in with a scotch pad. When you are satisfied that the rust has been fully converted, then use distilled distilled water with scotch pad to help neutralize any remaining white residue. Let it dry. You should have little just a little white residue at this point. Leave it alone and then move on to painting. If you do have some remnants remaining this will not bother paint adhesion. You want the metal coated with the conversion product. This barrier coating - (ie the results of your applying this phosphorus solution) is to convert and also create an increased bonding substrate surface for your paint as this is what this stuff does. My personal choice is " A Must For Rust (TM)" all the time and serves as my paint adhesion promoter on my projects. With a little practice on the dilution with distilled water you can dial out most of the white residue upon drying. But do the dilution on your final application as you want it full force to get deep into the surface and convert the rust at it's full strength. If the substrate is not rusted and only has a rust haze then dilute your solution from the get go at about 20-30% with distilled water and then dry it of by rubbing it with towels and shooting shop air onto it. Little or no residue will remain, then paint. The above is just chemistry and this is what is occurring and this is what the white residue is. Hope this helps.
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