Hi folks, All the recommended oil mods have been completed on my new engine build. What remains for me to decide in terms of oiling is if I go with the stock oil pan or upgrade to a deep sump pan. I understand the benefits of using a deep sump pan for extended high RPM conditions and I understand needing to keep the oil pickup submerged at all times. If I run my street car reasonably hard (spirited driving) and maybe the occasional day at the track, do I need a deep sump oil pan to protect my engine? My build is below. Thanks for your input as always. 1970 SF 455 (bored .038 over) original iron heads with TA Stage 1 stainless steel valves and multi-angle valve job TA Timing Cover 800 CFM Quadrajet Level 3 build (Maximum performance) by Quadrajet Power TA 290-94H Camshaft Wiseco forged pistons pt055h4 https://www.go-parts.com/wiseco/wiseco-pistons-pro-tru-series/pt055h4/i-589146.aspx OEM HD Rocker Arms TA or Poston (not sure which they are) full length headers This engine is going into my 67 GS with M21 4 speed with 3.55 posi rear end. The car will be street driven 99 percent of the time.
You can put a baffle in a stock oil pan. American Machine & Performance makes them for stock pans for about $13.
I have one of Steve Reynolds' masterpieces on my engine. I can run 8 quarts in mine. More oil stays cooler.
More oil is better, cooler oil is better, oil control is mandatory. For your build I would suggest one of TA's replacement oil pans, (TA_1511C or TA_1511D). Then weld in a simple baffle front and rear. This will give you a little extra oil capacity over a stock pan and extra oil control via the baffles. Cost would be in the $200 range for all.
If in sprited driving you also mean around curves then a baffled pan with a Crank scraper, or a Crank scraper with a Accusump would be the way to go.
Would I not need a side kick out on the oil pan to benefit from the crank scraper? What about a windage tray instead since it is mounted on the bottom rather than the side?
When they did autocross at the GS Nats, I did a ride along and one fellow's oil pressure dropped to well below 10psi in hard corners at RPM.
For your intended driving style I would just get the TA pan, install good baffles and invest in a MasterLube, or Accusump system. This is good insurance to cover any shortcomings in the oil supply system. If you were seriously looking at a full on road race oil pan and components, (swinging trap doors, oil pickup, windage tray, etc.) you'll be up over $1,000. With the TA pan and "pre-oiler" system you'll be in for about 1/2 of that. If you feel you don't want to install the baffles yourself, I can do that for you if needed. Just send me a PM. Steve
Thanks guys. I have ordered the TA pan and a pair of baffles. I am going to look into the Masterlube, etc. I am not at all familiar with them. Steve, I appreciate your offer to do the installation of the baffles. I have it covered. Thanks!:TU:
