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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Wind Noise

Discussion in 'The ragtop shop' started by rzepko6194, Oct 16, 2006.

  1. I get a ton of wind noise from where the conv top meets the windshield when driving over 60 mph. The header bow seal is new. The top latches are pretty tight, maybe too tight for the new seal or is this noise to be expected?

    I've only had the top up once before, it was pouring rain then and I was more concerned about the water getting in past the old seal!

    Also, what's the recommended lubricant(s) for the top joints and cables?

    Thanks.

    JP

    73' Centurion
     
  2. Truzi

    Truzi Perpetual Student

    I used to wedge foam in the space. The type of stuff you put around an air conditioner in your window. In the winter I'd put even more in because a flake or two would get in while I drove at 60 mph.
     
  3. beckmanb

    beckmanb Well-Known Member

    We get so much noise in our 68 convert with a new top at 60 mph that we can't hear the wind. Its a new top and I had it tightened up after this occuredd but it is still noisy. Seems a bit better with a side window cranked down about a 1/4 inch. I have been told it is normal noise but because it is so annoying we drive with the top down unless absolutely necessary to put it up (rain, snow ,,,)
     
  4. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    do you have a gm manual that covers convertible tops for scissor top cars?

    in order for the header seal to work correctly, it needs help from other parts of the top and frame.

    first off, if side tension cables are broken, they will allow air to "bubble" the top canvas up at higher speeds pulling the header seal from the windshield frame letting air/rain/ect. slip through.

    also, if someone has ever tried to put the top down with the latch disconnected but with the handle in the latched position, they may have bent the metal that supports the plastic "cam" (see picture). this cams job is to help maintain slight pressure on the locked handle causing a pivot at the front hinge that helps the header seal maintain its pressure.

    and one more thing. the front roof rail weatherstrip (the spongy thing covered in top material) needs to have about half of itself smashed by the header bow when the top is latched, this weatherstrip it your FIRST defense against air and rain. sometimes due to age this foam it will give up (stay smashed) and not apply enough pressure. if it is no longer "springy", the foam strip may need to be replaced.
     

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  5. Yuk, thanks for tips! It will give me something to do while I'm waiting for this rainy weather to pass.

    JP

    73' Centurion
     

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