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Won't start

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by jj455, Nov 9, 2008.

  1. jj455

    jj455 1970 Stage 1

    My car all of a sudden won't start. Cranks over like the battery is on steroids. Yet, it doesn't fire. It has been acting funny for a while. Some times it fires right up as soon as I turn the key. Then at other times it had be cranked for at least ten seconds. Got twelve volts at the battery...and only 4.5 at the coil when the key is turned on. I know it should have at least 5 to 5.5volts at the coil when the kry is turn on. Would that cause the problem? if so where should I look.
    The carb is good. The choke sets, and the accellerator pump works well.
     
    jj455, Nov 9, 2008
    #1
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Our cars are really simple. They need spark, fuel, and air to run. You are missing one. My guess is spark is missing or very weak. I'm going to assume you still have points since you are measuring voltage at the coil with the ignition switch in the run position. The spec is actually 5-5.5 volts. 4.5 could just be a low reading meter. I would pull a plug and take a look. If the plugs are black or fuel fouled, the most like cause is bad points. The spark gets weak, and eventually the plugs get fouled and the engine refuses to start.
     
    LARRY70GS, Nov 9, 2008
    #2
  3. BUICKRAT

    BUICKRAT Got any treats?

    Resistor wire or switch would be my first guesses. Jumper 12 volts to the coil and see if it starts.
     
    BUICKRAT, Nov 9, 2008
    #3
  4. BuickBuddy

    BuickBuddy Registered V8 Offender GK

    You say it cranks over like the battery is on steroids? Do you mean the engine spins faster now? If so your timing chain may have jumped a tooth or is broken all together.

    Take the cap off and see if the rotor spins first. If it does then check top dead center to see if it jumped.
     
    BuickBuddy, Nov 9, 2008
    #4
  5. jj455

    jj455 1970 Stage 1

    Larry, The ignition system in the car is a mallory laser unit, with a filter element. The plugs last time I ran the car at a Stanton about a month ago were white with just a hint of color.
    Buickrat, is that safe? do you run a jumper right from the positive battery terminal?
    BuickBuddy, No, I didn't mean that it turns faster...I should have worded that differently. It turns normally, not slowly like a low battery would. I'll check what you suggested. Would it be done by rolling #1 to TDC, and checking the position of the rotor?

    Thanks Guys Jim
     
    jj455, Nov 9, 2008
    #5
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I would check the plugs now. A month ago you didn't have a problem. Also, see if you are getting a spark.

    I wouldn't jump anything with 12 volts. I'm not sure what the Mallory Ignitions want.

    David means take the distributor cap off. Then crank the engine and see if the rotor is turning normally and smoothly.
     
    LARRY70GS, Nov 9, 2008
    #6
  7. jj455

    jj455 1970 Stage 1

    I took the cap off the distributor...and BINGO the rotor was not rotating. I could turn it by hand. I knew the roll pin was sheared. What would cause it to shear, the distributor turns freely? I don't want to pound a new pin in without knowing what would cause this to happen. could the gear be set to deep or to shallow on the cam gear? Are there specs out there for setting the gear depth?
    I have swapped a distributor before, but never had to set it up from 0.:Do No: I know I have to put the #1 piston up to top dead center. Do I have to put indicators on the rockers to tell when both vavles are closed. I will search the board to find out if there is a thread discribing this job.
     
    jj455, Nov 10, 2008
    #7
  8. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Excessively high oil pressure, excessive revving before the engine's up to temp, high volume oil pump kit.

    Any one of these can spell doom for the distributor gear interface.

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, Nov 10, 2008
    #8
  9. jj455

    jj455 1970 Stage 1

    Bingo! Devon you hit the nail on the head with that reply. The car does have a high volume oil pump. Since I have raced the car I don't have the choke connected. When I start the car it almost pegs the gauge, and I have had to rev it to keep it going. I'll put a new pin in and hook up the choke. Does the distributor also need a gasket?...if so mine did not have one. Thank you
     
    jj455, Nov 10, 2008
    #9
  10. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    There's a rubber o-ring on the OD of the dist housing...should not need to be replaced.

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, Nov 10, 2008
    #10
  11. jj455

    jj455 1970 Stage 1

    Thanks to all for your help...this place is great! The wealth of knowledge is outstanding, and the willingness to help and guide is second to none. I bought this car to race and learn. With this boards willingness to teach and share information, I don't feel like I'm alone in the forrest. Thanks again to all! Jim
     
    jj455, Nov 10, 2008
    #11
  12. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Good luck Jim..glad to help. All I hope I can be as helpful as others have been for me!

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, Nov 10, 2008
    #12
  13. jj455

    jj455 1970 Stage 1

    I forgot to add....I got it running this morning. Plugs do look a little fouled. Most likely due repeated failed starts. Running like a top now! Jim
     
    jj455, Nov 10, 2008
    #13

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