1972 350 Surging Under Load When Stopped and at Operating Temperature

It moves maybe 1 degree, I'd say. I didn't replace them, but the PO did, according to him. They look new.

 

Thanks for the idea, Larry, will do. I figure for $25, it'd be worth replacing anyway. I'm not hearing anything from valve train, no.

 

I don't like the timing light observation. Can you try supplying 12 volts from the battery directly to the + coil?

 

Just to clarify, you mean you don’t like what you’re hearing on that front, or that’s not a good way to test it?

I completely forgot about that one breakage I found in the red wire going to the + side of the coil.. I bet you’ve got it figured out, here. I wonder if there’s another break somewhere and it’s touching something?

 

Hearing on that front. We always need constancy.

 

^ and an easy test to weed out that possible coil wire issue

 

Rex, Are you driving like your Avatar? I dig it.

 

Gonna try this out in roughly 15 minutes, guys. Thanks!

 

nah..we in red paint but not driving yet

 

Frank, Close to downtown? There too much.

 

So the car may have been running even worse with the straight battery to coil jump, and the car didn’t shut off when I turned the key off, which I assume is normal.

 

Bummer. Correct on the key. Remove the + coil wire. Worse?

 

what is the voltage to the +coil. ignition only,,,,, and run.

 

I just remembered a capacitor gave me a real BAD time once.. Went though all the normal checks.. well the cap was the last check it was a not very old.

 

Can you confirm you have used ether/starting fuel it check for cab leaks?

 

This dawned on me, too.. is that the same as the condenser, or something completely different?

We might be on to something here, guys.. 12.10v with ignition on, car not running. When running, it's fluctuating between 8.31v and 8.57v.

Mike, I tried carb cleaner with that trick, I thought I'd heard that'll do it, too. Wrong stuff to use?