We did order the sfi flexplate, but the balancer is over $500.00US, and with the flexplate....that's another $1000.00+ Canadian. Had to make the choice of keeping the engine externally balanced or change to internal...because of the price....we stayed external.
This is true and an externally balanced engine that is balanced is still far superior to a factory balance job...
I'm getting a set of Molnar rods. Questions: Their bushed for floating pins, better set-up or no difference than pressed pins? Auto Tec Pistons, are they available set up for floating pins? Auto Tec shows only two piston choices for the 350, a 9.75 dished, and a flat top, no mention is made as far as available in pressed or floating pin set up.
They will make the pistons for floating pins if you ask them... Your best bet is to e-mail with Scotty and he will sort out all the details so you get the compression height, overbore, pin style, dish CC, all how you want them. Start with getting the block measured out.
Thanks Sean, I'm going to get my original '71 block outta the oil soaked garbage bag and take it to the Michaels this weekend, Have him check the bores (its already .030) Also going to ask about checking line bore. Main studs? Can I re-use my head studs? Suction galley was drilled out waaaaay back when, so I'm good there. When I get my rods, I'll take 'em in, and then have him tell me what piston size and such I need for near zero deck. I'm going to have Michael tell me what all I need, since this is new territory for me as far as using "Non Stock" parts. I do feel more confident using my '71 block again as it has the windage tray, AND I remember the main caps fit tight in the register in the block, where-as the '78 block the fit was loose.
I'm having JE pistons made for mine that will be zero deck and actually .032 over. If you need any engine parts I have 2 complete 71 350's Keith
I was going to mention this to Mark that he can save a couple bucks on having the block bored if it can clean up with taking out less than .005" on the hone and he should be able to use .030" over file fit rings. Mark would then order his pistons to what the bores cleaned up at, its backwards of how it is usually done but it works with customizable pistons like the AutoTecs. Or just plan on .040" over and order pistons that size, that is if your machine shop says the bores will clean up to that size. With a bore size of 3.830" there are good ring options, the next size would be 3.840" and still going to this size should save you the boring cost because they can hone that much out.(its only .005" per side, they leave around that much when they bore for honing) You can either have the minimum taken off the deck to have it "square decked" making both sides the same and having them give you the measurement of what the deck ended up as to order your piston's compression distance. Or you can have the machine shop measure the 4 corners of the deck and add all of those measurement together and divide by 4 and call that your deck height to figure out what you need you piston's compression distance to be. Say your deck height cleans up with an extra .015" extra, so 10.187" + .015" = 10.202". From the factory they left a lot of extra on the decks, Andy's '68 block is .029" taller on one side and .026" taller on the other side. Half the standard stroke is 1.925". The TA Molnar rods are 6.380" IIRC? So to figure out what the compression distance needs to be you do a little simple subtracting. 10.202" - 1.925" = 8.277" - 6.380" = 1.897" to get you to a zero deck. If you're going to use the felpro blue head gasket that is .039" thick compressed then I would leave the pistons .005" in the hole so you would have .044" quench. The extra .005 in the hole is a bit of extra safety margin for clearances, so 1.892" compression distance for .005" in the hole. The AutoTecs have a quench pad on them that will work great with the new TA heads that are a closed chamber design. You might want to try to find out what TA plans to make the CC volume so if there are later plans on swapping those on in the future for the compression ratio you want you'll be right there right out of the box! :Brow: If you spend a little time on your iron heads making the chambers all the same and perhaps a bit bigger to say 60cc(or more if you can get the amount extra you'll need for the swap) if the TA will be 58cc then that will help to get your extra compression ratio when you swap. You basically want about 1:1 extra when going to aluminum so plan accordingly if those are in the future plans. Cool stuff, I think you're gonna like it. GL Derek
With all the excitement on the aluminum heads, has there been a ballpark price thrown around? I'm getting my bottom end all sorted/planned out and I know its all for naught if near stock iron heads are installed. I REALLY would like the new aluminum heads, but if its going to be cost prohibitive right nowo No: BUT, its TONS easier installing 'em during the build, as I'm re-using my head studs. I know heads are the key, and I don't wanna do this build just to run the same mph:rant:
For a little more insurance that you will have a higher mph adding 20 more cubes would do wonders. To get you there these would work great with the AutoTec pistons you are planning on buying; http://www.ebay.com/itm/181969787105?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT With these lighter rods combined with lighter pistons alone will unlock some extra HP to the rear wheels. Pistons would be lighter because the compression distance would be reduced by; 6.450" - 6.380" = .070" Extra stroke would also reduce the compression distance as well; 3.990" - 3.850" = .140" we need to divide by 2 so that would be another .070" reduction for a total of .140" less compression distance needed that will help lighten up the rotating assembly to release a bit more HP because of reduced weight. The rods in the link are around 100 grams lighter per rod than factory cap screw rods so around 800 less grams of rotating mass just from the rods! Pistons could possibly be around 200 grams lighter per piston(compared to the pistons you have in your engine now) for 1,600 grams less rotating mass! With a total weight savings of 2,400 grams off of your rotating assembly! That right there is quite substantial and would let your engine rev quite quickly compared to your rotating assembly you have now. :eek2: With a .040" overbore and a 3.990" stroke that comes in right under 370 like 369.6something rounded up is 370 CID. The same as this build; http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?200499-the-dyno-numbers-are-in&highlight=1021 With all the great crankshaft shops in Ohio you shouldn't have a problem at all having your crank offset ground, around $200 for just a regrind with only an extra about $150 more for stroking the crank. The $ saved by buying the rods in the link easily pays for the extra cost for stroking the crank compared to the Molnar rods.(not that those aren't a good option, its that you can't do a stroker with those o No :Brow: Just would need to order the pistons with the wristpins that the rods need and calculate what you need for the compression distance and dish volume to get the compression ratio you want. 10.202" - 6.450" = 3.752" - 1.995"(half the stroke)= 1.757" compression distance to get to zero deck, compared to the 1.897" zero deck height with the standard stroke. Can be around 20 to 50 grams less per piston with the .140" reduction in deck height? Of coarse the build details are up to you, just putting it out there in case someone else might be interested in doing a stroker, Guy(fox's den) maybe?:Brow: Derek
Well, I dropped my '71 block off at Michaels after work this morn. (HAAA, I beat yah too it Guy) Told Mike what I was doing, and I was going to follow HIS lead on what all should be done as far as the Molnar rods, Auto Tec pistons, (size and so on) Told him the block is already 30 over, he said he'll check everything and a lot of times its better to go another .010 to a total of .040 over, as long as rings are available in 3.840
You get a price for the work yet? Lucky Tell him I said Hey next time you go back. If he practices on yours mine will be right. lol
Oh, he didn't give me a price, he's fair (I'm sure you know) and I trust his judgement. He asked " 3 weeks ok" to get to checking out the block, I replied "that's fine, I'm in no rush, as I'm paying cash for all this, heads, pistons, rods, etc"
Question: What are we going to use for head gaskets for 11 or more to 1 compression with the aluminum heads? I don't think the standard Fel-Pro Blue is going to be durable. I believe Sean had posted a gasket awhile back, but I don't remember.
