455 72-75 Weirdest coolant leak ever

Your going to find the serial number on that block next to the timing cover, if it's a "735" block. 735 is the last 3 of the casting number back between the ears of the bellhousing, where is also says "455".

Here is the info

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?214613-400-430-455-Block-ID-Prep-and-Oiling-mods

Also, I would agree that if you have to take the intake off, it would be a good time to upgrade that setup to an Edebrock Performer or the new B4B. If your using the stock ram air air cleaner on a GS, then the Performer puts the carb in the correct location to line everything up.

Also, use composition gaskets for sealing, and some type of valley pan to shield the PCV valve from sucking liquid oil.

JW

 

Originally you said the radiator was full but the reservoir was empty but no mention of a leak anywhere? The problem started after you filled the reservoir, so maybe that is where you should start, are you sure the reservoir isn't cracked somewhere
or the hose from the radiator to the reservoir doesn't have a hole or a crack. Your radiator being full when you checked it would indicate there is no leak there, it could be the reservoir or a hose could be leaking and blowing water back on the engine, and it may just be puddling in the places you see the water. You might try getting every thing dried off and then leave the reservoir empty with the radiator full and drive it around and see what happens. You also don't want a cold radiator filled clear to the top when it is cold. Good Luck :TU:



Bob H.

 

Guys, I decided to just take a video but I cant figure out how to upload it from my android phone. Bare with me ill keep trying until I can figure it out. That way" it seems likes" can become a "thats most definately"

 

The thing in photo #2 is the sending unit for your aftermarket temperature gauge. Speaking of which, you have not stated that it is actually overheating. Is it, or have you not run it long enough to see?
It sounds to me like you may have a coolant leak at the intake to head gaskets, but I'm equally suspicious that it is spraying out of the overflow and puddling at all the low spots on the engine. Have you tested/changed the radiator cap?
Either way the intake needs to come off, and be replaced with a stocker/Edelbrock Performer or B4B

 

My car does not over heat!once the resuvior and a bit of my radiator coolang comes out the leak stops and the car can be ran forever without over heating. I pressure tested the coolant system and confirmed tha spraying from another area is not the problem.

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Here is a video I made covering everything. From the tick, to exactly where the screws leaking. I hope this could confirm what you guys are saying and or let you see or hear what you feel it is

https://youtu.be/DKClfsGxq-Y

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Be careful! If it pulls all the overflow coolant out and stops leaking and doesn't show hot, it could be because the temp gauge sender is no longer in water.

Also, if the thermostat housing is warped or has a cracked gasket, that is where things might puddle up as well. Much easier than the intake if it is just that.

When I have a leak, I clean everything up and then position rags, paper towels, etc all the places that I have seen fluid. I run it for a bit then check the rags/towels to see if any are getting wet. That way you can catch it before it blows/runs to other places. I'd stuff a paper towel in each corner and under the thermostat housing.

When you see a leak, start at the highest spot and work backwards to any possible points it could have dropped from. I don't think much is wrong with it, just need to do some basic troubleshooting and narrow it down.

Also, I couldn't really hear a ticking that well. Sounded mostly fine to me for a manifold car.

 

Just wondering, ive had a few people say its normal but noone ever explains why it doesnt tick like that on the passanger side. Not looking to have problems, im just really interested in knowing

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Wrong intake gasket for that manifold. Get a performer and use composite gasket of the correct thickness. I bet if you take a .003 feeler you can slip it between the manifold and head at the intake ports.

 

Ok, so if I understand you correctly, the system that transfers oil from the passanger side pump to the drivers side pump commonly has problems, causing people to believe that the drivers side naturally clicks (ticks). Is it safe to assume that the lack of urgency for this noise, means that it wont cause any major mechanical problems?

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Do you have any brock performers youd suggest there are so many different looking ones for the 455 its a bit overwhelming. I am currently only concerned with adding reliability and gas milage. She has enough power for my happiness

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Your choices are the 2146 Performer and the 2515 B4B

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2146/overview/make/buick

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2515/overview/make/buick

You also might have good luck buying a used one through the Parts Wanted section here on V8Buick

Added in edit: Looking at the pictures again, it looks like only the Performer, and not the B4B, covers the AIR holes in the late model heads...
Truthfully, your best bet is a stock 72-76 intake. Should still be way cheaper, even with shipping. And, on a street driven car, a stock intake will show a performance increase over the Offy, which is designed for high RPM only.

 

Maybe not with the pressure test, I'm suggesting maybe the reservoir or hose could be leaking and the fan could be blowing it back on the engine.


Bob H.

 

IMHO -- before you spend $$ on new parts and hours of time swapping this or that you might be well served to find a good local mechanic that has experience with Buicks (there are folks here that can help you find one). You won't save any money buying tools and parts to do a job that doesn't need doing. You have already done some of the hard work to diagnose the issue so you've given someone a head start. I would rather pay someone $50 or $100 to help me diagnose the issue then chase it part by part. More than once I've started a simple job on an old motor only to snap a stud or lose a spring (where did that gjust go???) or stupidly reassemble something backwards. I'm not saying you should give up but if you are not 95% sure of the root cause, I would not start pulling stuff apart without getting someone else to double check your diagnosis.

 

When I pressure tested it that screw filled up the puddle and caused it to run over those parts

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If that's true and the only source of the leak you might try pulling that bolt only and putting some PTFE thread sealant on it and then re-torqueing ( probably would run the entire torque procedure over for good measure so finger tight this one only 1st, then begin sequence ). Pretty sure that bolt goes into a water jacket, someone else here can confirm. Just a thought and couldn't hurt to try.

If you have a problem after that still then yeah it is going to require some deeper digging and heavier lifting... alot of good advice being given here in previous posts.

 

Some good advise here, but I want to try everything myself with the help of you guys. Sounds like an adventure . Time and money lost is knowledge gained. I have a lot of time on my hands being on a job search, since leaving the service. A big project to keep me busy sounds great right now.

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