455 72-75 Weirdest coolant leak ever

You read my mind, i just got a torque wrench im just waiting for my manual to come in so that I could find the torque sequence.

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Looks like you have the expert help already lined up. I want to point out that your fuel filter laying on the intake manifold is a disaster in the making. I've had that type partially unscrew and gas sprayed all over the engine. Fortunately, it was still cool and I had no secondary voltage leaks. I would at least change it over to a fully metal filter until I could get a solid steel line.

 

This is already in the works a steel one is on the way, im going to be routing it to the right where the washer fluid res was. Youll likely see another posting by me when im done with this coolant leak

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Whats the pros and con of stock/performer?

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Stock is heavier. You can find a used stocker pretty cheap. The edelbrock can be found used also. The cheapest (except any required shipping) probably would be the stock. I like the edelbrock over the stock because I have changed the intake in the car by myself and the cast iron is a boat anchor!!

 

So the only difference is weight?

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Most people I have seen claim there is no performance gain. If there is it didn't really translate for me at least to a change in E.T or anything. I know any performer will bolt up but the stock you must get the correct style for your heads. Test the waters on how much an intake is both stock and aluminum.

 

About to torque down the intake and add something to hold the bolts in place to see if that fixes my leak issue while I save up for a new intake.


On a similar subject I got an issue with the manual that I bought. I was under the impression that since my casting number behind the block said my 455 was a 1972-75 that the torque specs and everything would be unchanged. But according to these torque specs 1972 has a 10 torque difference on the intake. Did I order the wrong chassis all manual? Or is this one of those things I shouldnt worry about?

http://www.tpocr.com/buickts.html

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Ha I was just going to send that link. I use that chart so I don't ruin my shop manual anymore.

 

Thanks Larry70gs ill keep everyone posted to see if that fixs the coolant leak!

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The screws bolting the intake to the block had no more then 20ftlbs one of them that wasnt even leaking i could have turned with my finger. Im almost positive this will fix my issue but im waiting for the stuff I put on there to hold them in place to dry

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Cool that will save you some money! Makes you wonder what else is not torqued properly.

 

As stated, check everything else that the previous owner assembled. I had a transmission almost fall out from my truck because the previous owner was, apparently a limp-wrist. Not trying to be a dick, but those are bolts, not screws in your intake (at least I hope so!).

 

Hah all good better to be corrected on a forum then look dumb in person.

Last night my daily driver was totaled by my gf. So the skylark is my daily driver now D:

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Update corrected problem not solved just a bit better


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Never mind looks like the puddle is back just it seeps slower now that one of the leaks is gone

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Leaking from the same place or some other place? the sheet metal intake gaskets are not that great for aluminum intakes.

 

Im back to having no clue where this is coming from... puddling behind the distributer. Wondering if the rest of the motor is properly torqued. Going to torque down the waterpump next i might be coming out of the part that the water pump connects to.

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