67 Riviera 430 Build

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by johnriv67, Oct 8, 2018.

  1. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    I'm fully ready to pull the engine. How do I separate the engine and trans? Trans is supported by a jack currently

    The engine mount bolts are out and still the front of the engine won't raise. I know there are two dowels that hold the engine and trans together. Torque converter is also unbolted

    What could I be missing?

    Edit: Watched someone do it with a lot of heat to the dowel pins. What type of heating "thing" "torch" whatever should I get? And any recommendations
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2018
  2. Donuts & Peelouts

    Donuts & Peelouts Life's 2 Short. Live like it.

    Just thinking but.

    Try prying them apart with a rag at the end of your crowbar so you don't do any damage.

    You could just take it out with the trans too to work on it outside the car.

    Go around with your fingers for any missing bolts.

    You say the torque converter loose, are you sure.

    Have all the bolt been taken out from where they meet, ain't it 4 or 6
     
  3. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    It is 6. The converter spins freely of the flexplate. I guess I'll start prying
     
  4. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    If the motor mount long bolts are out, the engine should start to lift.

    DO NOT start prying on the engine and trans without the engine lifted off of the motor mounts! It needs to be off of the mounts so it can move forward to separate the two.

    You may have to much jack pressure on the trans locking the engine on the mounts. Let the pressure out of the jack so it is about a 1/2" away from the trans and then try to lift engine off mounts. After it clears mounts , raise jack back up to lightly contact trans and rock engine back and forth, it should separate doing so. Be careful.
     
  5. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

    Before you start prying, see my above post.
     
  6. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Oh that is NOT WHAT I MEANT. Do not worry
     
  7. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    I went to the store and bought a propane torch and I was able to separate the driver side. Onto the passenger side.
     
    Donuts & Peelouts likes this.
  8. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Both sides are now free, but now I can't raise the engine because the dowels are still in the trans. I can't move it back and can't move the engine forward. What options do I have?
     
  9. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    image.jpg Briz I should have listened to you. I need to remove the hood.
     
  10. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Don't need to remove hood if you get rid of the engine balancer and just run a chain across the engine diagonally from front to rear close to engine to gain the boom clearance you'll need to clear hood.

    Also shorten the hook on the boom as much as possible to gain even more.

    From looking at the picture if you do that you should be able to get her out no problem.
     
  11. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    I'd go with as short a chain as possible between cylinder #'s 5&6 on a pair of short bolts in the headbolt holes. Those levelers never seem to work for me. So the motor is two feet away from the trans dowels; or was that before the lift?
    When separating the two, put a piece of wood on the trans pan; dont wanna collapse that one. You then need to lift the motor outa the mounts AND raise the trans to keep the mating surfaces parallel. As short as the dowels are you may need to wiggle it from side to side to split them. You still need to mind all the parallel stuff tho.
    So now the motor is up in the air and you need to set it back down to change the rig? Just set it down easy on the cross member. Maybe have an extra person to balance it while you replace all the china stuff with a chain. You may get it close enough to almost land it on the mounts. Stuff some short 2x4's in there. Yer lucky you took all the front stuff off; that gained you a foot right there! ws
     
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  12. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Today was the second most productive day in my existence, yesterday was the first.

    The volume of sludge in the bottom of the pan was at least a pint. Went 2" up the wall of the bottom of the pan. How it ran, I'm still guessing. All camshaft bearings are in great shape though.

    I will slap the 12" converter in tomorrow, do everything necessary to the oil pan and related gasketry, slap the cam in and matching lifters, and maybe just feel very accomplished.:D:D:D
    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  13. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    You might regeret not doing a ring and bearing job while its out... Just sayin'. When you go back in, pick up some 4" long studs for the bell housing bolts to help line the dowels up. Sometimes the hand is quicker than the RYE. ws

    [​IMG]
     
    Donuts & Peelouts likes this.
  14. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

     
  15. buick64203

    buick64203 Just plum crazy Staff Member

    Ive pulled many an engine. More than I care to remember. Pulled the engine 3 times on my 69 Riv. I always prefer to pull the engine and trans together. I find its just easier than trying to separate and then mate back together in the car. Plus, you can degrease the trans and pressure wash the engine compartment while its out. Just a matter of preference.

    And I wouldn't pull an engine without a tilter. Best thing I ever bought. Make life so much easier
     
    Lucy Fair and Donuts & Peelouts like this.
  16. Donuts & Peelouts

    Donuts & Peelouts Life's 2 Short. Live like it.

    Glad to see my advice about prying it didn't do any damage. Glad that engine is out!
     
  17. buick64203

    buick64203 Just plum crazy Staff Member

    So your putting in a new or used cam? I recall you saying the lifter are used?
     
  18. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    It's a used Scott Brown grind with the matching set of lifters used in the earlier engine
    219/238 @ .050
    275/296 advertised
    .490/.460 lift
    109 LSA
    3* advance ground in
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018
  19. Donuts & Peelouts

    Donuts & Peelouts Life's 2 Short. Live like it.

    Are good used can and lifter combos common practice? If so where can I look for a set.
     
  20. buick64203

    buick64203 Just plum crazy Staff Member

    The lifter are in order front to back correct?
     

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