Discussion in 'The Bench' started by johnriv67, Oct 8, 2018.
Yes all lined up and even numbered, with "front" and "back" labels as well
I would look around the board. I found mine on V8 by a member here. I hope it turns out well
OK thanks for the info, I'll do that.
This is my tilter for now.
If the intake is still on,m the carb base plate ring works pretty good. Sometimes ya gotta think like an Egyptian! I'd keep the chain away from the valve covers tho... they squeeze pretty easy! ws
Really stupid question, but I gotta know. Does the 455 rotate clockwise looking at the front of the engine at the crank?
Today's progress. Not as much today overall, but more specific stuff was done.
Swapped all valve springs to Stage 1
Switched 13" converter for 12"
Beat and torched the heat riser like a red headed stepchild until it came off the manifold
Checked main bearings 4 and 5
Installed camshaft and lifters with Permatex lube
Installed timing set
Scalpeled and removed all gaskets that I could access
Installed Felpro headgaskets and heads once again
Trying to remember anything else, but no more work on it for a little while I'm gone
Unless your below the equator, then it rotates the other way
Plan for when I start work again: not exactly in order
Remove all previously installed Stage 1 springs in the stock heads, install them into the spare 430 heads because they have evidently received a valve job in the past and the seats shine nicely
Buy .020 shim headgaskets
Rebolt everything back together
Buy new bolts for everything I snapped
Install pushrods and rocker shafts
Install timing cover
Figure out the oil pump situation
Rethread exhaust manifold studs, all 4
*buy shorty headers
Correct steering wheel so that it does not drive crooked
General engine bay cleanup and prep for engine install
Degrease and Paint engine in Buick red
Vacuum modulator replacement and adjustment
Governor adjustment to hopefully 5300rpm
Anything else that you guys would do while I'm at it? Thanks
*Find the 18* HEI advance bushing that is left over from the Corvette and stick it in the Buick HEI
Completed an evaluation of the seats of the original heads, keeping those now because I can't get the f&$king alternator/AC bracket off, and they were much better than I thought initially.
Set up the oil pump with the booster plate and shims. Using the thrust plate, 1 paper gasket, and a Red .002 shim. Barely moves, but can be seen and heard clacking back and forth when moved.
Currently waiting on headgaskets and I will have to remove the old manifolds again.
Staked the new front main seal into the timing cover from Dan Zepnick. Thank you Dan!
never could figure out why ppl put money in 400/430 engines with those weak bottom ends,main caps are to small to suportant the load,bet there was alot of warranty engines for crankshaft issues
That is the first I've heard of it in coming up on a full year of owning and working on my Riviera.
Yes, please elaborate?
(mebbe some MoPoor guy haxed his account...)
"Don't flip it over." Thank you very much.
The 400/430 does have smaller main caps than a 455. That is why an original 400 oil pan won't fit a 455. I found that out long ago by accident. However I don't think the block main webbing is any different in size and in this case, and most cases, when building a 400/430 the main caps are more than up to the job. Maybe in an all out build they would fail. Of course in the 455's case the caps hold up but the main webbing starts to break.
Good call on getting some steel shim .020" head gaskets. Every little bit of compression helps.
Did you block the exhaust crossover passages in the heads? Edelbrock intake on the menu?
Speaking of oiling systems I'd recommend one of these. May be worth a smidge of oil pressure and flow. Even better if you would drill out the oil pickup passageway to 9/16" but not really necessary at this time. You can always reuse the 5/8" pickup in a later build or if you pull the engine for a later total rebuild.
One important point I wanted to bring up was what lifters are you using? Are they meant for a 400-430 with the through the head oiling or are they the later through the pushrod oiling? The later "pushrod oiling" style won't work with your solid 3/8" ball pushrods. The later ones use a 5/16" ball. Maybe get a set of the adjustable "hybrid" pushrods? The added bonus is you will be able to set the correct preload.
@No Lift When looking at the two oil pump assemblies, the original 67 one had a much smaller hole, while it appears that this hole has been drilled out on the one in using.
I will be using the stock intake. I think I need to go check my lifters. What key physical piece of those lifters will show that they are for pushrod oiled engines instead of shaft oilers?
The TA exhaust crossover blockers are sitting next to me right now. Shorty header bolts need to be bought as well.
I believe the lifter plunger will have a hole in it so that oil is metered to the hollow push rods. The 69 and earlier lifters don't.
I see the hole in the lifters. Will it affect anything if the holes are blocked by a solid pushrod?