Didn't think it'd be able to tolerate 91 octane without retarding the timing a lot. Plus I got a damn good deal on a rebuild kit, less than $150 for bearings, rings, headgaskets, core plugs, etc. All name brand stuff. Had to thrash to get it together for Thanksgiving last year, so that kit was a go. The engine puts down respectable power now, an extra .5-.7 point of compression lost don't bother me none. When the SP is removed in favor of my future rerebuild of my '76 engine, it will probably get torn down again, .030 over, 340p pistons, .020 gaskets, etc and blueprinted as close as I can to '70 SP specs. I'll then either sell it or buy a 350 skylark for a clone (or if I come across a GS350 with no engine) to drop it into and have fun with that.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-er1063 kit i bought, price went up $20 since thanksgiving... Here's a master kit I considered buying, but ended up going with a crower cam so I chose the above re ring kit. http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1064 I didn't know what "stock type" gasket meant at the time, so I guess I checked the felpro box. Oh well. Engine runs good on 91, that's what I wanted.
If you can get your 60ft to be the same most of the time and get the et close to the same as well I would do some bracket racing on a Friday nite and see how far you can go, might be able to win a few bucks. Just one small detail you must cut a .050 light to be competitive, at least that or better, so work on that too
In the 1/8th with my 2.41s peg leg rear and 195/75/14s, and a 1200 stall, the car had a 2.6 60 foot (terrible), best reaction time of the night was .843. 1st, 2nd, 4th, and 5th runs were 10.3 at 72mph. 3rd run was in drive, 10.9 at 68. With the 3.42 and 2500 (flashes to 2600, foot brakes to 2000), it should do a lot better. How much, I can't really say. Don't know if I'll be able to get to the track again this year.
I’m a little surprised the peak hp was up so high. I believe there is alittle more power in it that you can tune in the peak hp. What rpm did it fall off: stop pulling?
How is your timing setup? Total timing? I would email Ken and have him advise you on modifying the carb to get your air fuel ratio dialed in.
Basically 5100rpm is when it started to dip. I was surprised too. All sbb chassis pulls I've seen petered out above 46-4700rpm. I went in hoping it would at least hit 200hp to the wheels. On the low end (worse case scenario) I was thinking 150, was kinda hoping for 250, but at 211 (corrected), I'm not complaining.
TA HEI, 8* base, 22* adv., all in by 2800. It's as comfortably low as the springs would allow me to go. I kept the stock TA weights. Timing is on the conservative side, I know. Ken set the carb up for me, goes great in every aspect, but a lil rich on WOT as mentioned. I have a few sets of stock rods kicking around, I'll try out some of those and see if that leans it out a little. I don't deviate much, maybe .100 fatter at most (if I have a rod that close) as I don't have an AFR gauge or the time to dedicate to tuning further on the dyno.
Level 3. DCR is about 7.5, give or take. It's definitely under 8 with the .042 gaskets and stock shallow dish pistons. The dish looks only about 1/2 to 2/3 of the 340p's dish. Runs on 91 octane just dandy.
Sp engine should have the same basic dish as as the 340p as it’s a replacement for the higher compression sp engine. An sp piston on left the 71 low compression piston on right
Pretty sure he means 8*, with 22* advanced= 30* total. He needs to get total up between 32*-36*. That should help.
Yeah I was thinking that too just confirming and yes 32-36 is the sweet spot plus 8 degrees of vacuum advance..
Sean, I agree, 8-10 for vacuum advance. MrSony is also on ported vacuum. I like full manifold vacuum for a cooler running idle and sharper throttle response. Better gas mileage too. Not that we pay much attention to that with these cars!
How would I check the amount of vacuum advance I have? I assume it will show on the balancer, but what do I look for? I know with checking total timing if it's at 0 on the balancer, that's 30*, 2 is 32, etc. Same with vac. advance? To check without revving it could I switch it to manifold vacuum and adjust accordingly? And yes, 8* initial, + the 22* of mechanical advance. Really conservative, was my first dyno run, didn't want to hurt anything or waste time. It's my daily driver.
If you know where your mechanical advance is all in, you say 30* total, hook up your vacuum advance and measure the total advance at the same RPM. Then just subtract 30* from what you have. The stock canister usually adds 14-18* at about 16" of vacuum. That is usually too much if all your mechanical advance is all in at cruise RPM. 8-10* is usually what's needed.
