I don't know off hand at this point what size it is. I purchased it based on someones recommendation from the site. When I got it from online the site said this one would fit the car I had.
I know visually it is not as big as the orig old looking type. So why can I drive it so much to my brothers in near same temps, no issue. Go back home same way just little hotter out and it does this.
I don't know. I need information that I am not getting. I still don't know if all the parts in your ignition system are working and your ignition timing is correct. Who knows what radiator you put in there. It's boiling inside the radiator? It shouldn't do that even at 245*.
My timing was set to 8 degree when I had the new timing chain and cover put on car. It was boiling in the radiator. I can not tell you if the ignition system is failing. It starts fine after sitting for weeks, fires right up when hot, even when I pulled it in the garage today and it was hot it fired right up, no miss, power is fine, good punch when you get on it. That is the only way I can convey how it is running. Other then timing being off seems it the ign system is fine.
Well looks like I have the WRONG rad. This is what I bought. **** https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Prem...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Pr...Buick-Centurion-Century-Electra-/362999124870
Oh, it will run and start fine. The timing is at 8* while you are sitting still. As soon as you step on the gas, the mechanical advance adds timing, so does the vacuum advance. At highway speeds, the timing should be up around 36-40*. If it isn't, power will be down, and the engine will run hot. If your vacuum advance isn't working, timing will be down in the low 20s or lower.
I is not a dog on the hwy, if I kick it down it takes off. It is staying at 185-190 tooling down the HWY. It is not over heating. Today just parking it in the garage, the few min it took to get it positioned into the garage it went up to 210 then when I shut it off it got real hot. This car is frustrating.
That 36-40 degree timing is the only thing I don't know if is correct. When I had the TC cover put on I told them to set the timing to 10 degree, they said 8 was the best they could get it, they said it would not run well above that.
Ebay and Amazon have no idea. That radiator is capable of getting the job done. Something else is wrong. A 16 lb. radiator cap raises the boiling point of water to 260*, with coolant mixed in, even higher.
That tells me nothing. Like I said, mechanical advance and vacuum advance add timing at higher RPM. With a dial back timing light, you can measure the timing at 2000 RPM and know what it is.
It will climb some when off , and from what you described, it’s mostly doing it’s job well, except at idle with no movement. So probably weak fan clutch. Possibly timing still off? Maybe radiator cap failed.
I was having idle rising temps but I did put a new clutch fan on it. The issue went away. I will have the timing looked at again. Maybe the 36-40 is off. I will have a shop look at the distrib and make sure it is working correctly. I am going to put new plugs/wires/cap/rotor on it. Prob won't fix but I have them may as well put it on.
The boiling after shut off is called after boil. What happens is when you shut off the key the engine is still hot & absorbing heat & the coolant temp. is raised because there is no movement of coolant to help things cool off. If you started it after a few minutes the temp. should come right down as the radiator is absorbing the heat even with no water flow because it's dissipating heat from the coolant sitting still with no circulation. If you started it after a couple minutes from turn off the temp. should drop to or around normal. Like Larry said with the proper amount of coolant it should not boil until about 260*. Do you have a 50-50 mixture of anti-freeze & distilled water??? Like mentioned could ALSO be the fan clutch is or going bad. Like Larry also mentioned ignition timing plays a BIG roll in controlling coolant temps. Not to say the rad. cap is good EVEN IF NEW. Cheap & easy to find out, BUT buy a diff. brand from another auto parts store. Tom T.
Could I have had too much coolant in it? The expansion tank is still like REAL full and the rad level is fine.
I just don't get why the same trip one way and the same trip back with such drastic diff end result. No boil when I get to brothers house, leave 3 hours later and go back home same rt in prob 10 degree hotter weather and it boils at the my house. Makes NO sense.
