I measured at the crank pulley because I had to lay on my back (no access to jackstands) and read somewhere that it would be the same angle as the transmission output shaft. I also read the article on George's site but had to work with what was feasible. 6 of one, half a dozen of another....
If you use the 3.2* down, then use your adjustable control arms to tilt the rear up 1.2*. Not sure you are going to be able to measure at the rear, or adjust without access to jack stands or an alignment type lift.
Drive shaft angle must split the difference "equally and opposite" or this could be wasted effort. While your looking, check u-joint grease fittings for compression under power, or just RIP them apart doing a burn out.
Install of the adjustable uppers will be done on my mechanic friend's 4 post lift at his house and not on my back. Screw that!
That would be perfect. Recheck your measurements. I'm just not sure the crank pulley would give you the best reading. I might be wrong. If your measurements are accurate, there is nothing wrong with your pinion angle. It is very close to -2*, which is what is recommended. How exactly did you measure at the crank pulley? Did you use a straight edge across the front of it?
I was able to shimmy in under the gas tank and stick the angle finder on the machined area of the pinion yoke. I should add that my driveshaft loop impeded access to the tailshaft, which won't likely be an issue once the car is up in the air.
The rubber isolator that's 50 years old is enough to ruin any chance of accuracy. Unless the outer ring was checked for run out.. Edit- by the time you get to the balancer your assuming about 6 or more surfaces are machined perfectly square and that the crank is perfectly square in the block.. and exactly zero of these are perfect.
Brett, did you locate a set yet? I have some TRZ uppers that are in great shape. I'll be listing them soon!
