Color codes changed based on model year and vehicle. I've seen vehicles where the "white" wire was black with a white stripe. Ideally, you add two short jumper wires to the old, external voltage regulator connector, then adapt the wire harness to the new terminal orientation of the new alternator using the pigtail described above. Connecting the "F" or "2" terminal at the alternator directly to the alternator output defeats the remote voltage sensing engineered into the original wire harness. Remote voltage sensing tends to compensate for the sort of resistance that builds-up in a wire harness over time.
Got the alternator on and hooked up. Sadly I over-tightened the lower bolt, stripping it out. It came out with about 3 threads of aluminum on the end off the bolt. Are there any solutions that does not involve removing the head?
I learned early on, that with aluminum heads, you cannot tighten the long bolt that is the pivot for the alternator, enough to cinch that pivot. The upper bolt on the alternator will be plenty to hold the proper tension adjustment on the belt. Try that. Put the long bolt in with some locktite and tighten the upper bolt.
Will do. Does anyone know what size bolts go on the bottom and the passenger side of the alternator bracket?
Alternator's in and charging. I tapped through about 3 threads and inserted an all-thread stud about 1 inch deep. On the front side is a nut and washer holding it all together.
