Hi guys, I have almost gotten my lower dash completely stripped down to bare metal. If I am going to use an etch primer, do I need to condition the metal with a phosphoric acid solution prior to priming?
Yes, that's the right answer. I acid etch everything because I live in Florida and everything rusts in 15 minutes if I don't.
Yep, same here in New Zealand. I couldn't believe it. Flash rust on one end of the dash before I finished the other.
I worked at Cape Canaveral for a few years. I had made a copper sculpture that I just hung outside the condo to get the patina on it. It had green spots withing a few days. Coastal Florida eats parts quick unless you prepare them right. New Zealand sounds like the same kind of environment.
Yes, there is quite an industry here (NZ) for automotive rust repair due to the constant damp conditions.
Some etch primers should NOT be applied over a metal conditioner. Can be incompatible and lead to problems. Etch primer is meant for a bare metal surface. If you use a metal conditioner, a non-etch primer is recommended. What primer are you using? Best to read the Tech Data Sheet for the primer to see what it is compatible with.
You guys crack me up talking about rust. Not sure about NZ but Florida is paradise compared to New England. Things don't rust here. They dissolve.
If they do not salt your roads then believe me you have it real good. Count your blessings. You have not lived until your car is white from the salt. An all winter occurrence here.
:gp: It sure would be nice to have a non-corrosive option at a comparable price. I have a couple small bubbles on my lower dash pieces as well. Nothing major but I'm following this thread for advice too.
I use acid wash to etch and then epoxy primer. Applying etch primer to already etched metal may be a waste of time and material. As stated before, etch primer should be used on clean metal. Also. it only requires a "dusting" of etch primer to do the job properly. You do not want a buildup of the etch primer. As a side note, we tried Eastwood etch primer a few years ago and you could scratch it off with your fingernail after it cured. It didn't etch at all. Try the Sikkens 1K CF 1.5 wash primer and use sparingly.
So if a surface is already acid etched, etching primer wont bond properly? I would think it would bond chemically and/or mechanically. I usually use Montana Big Sky epoxy primer, pretty sure it's non-etching primer. Good to know, I need to check that out.
Big fan of SPI's epoxy primer. Talked with owner of SPI, who informed me many etch primers were incompatable if used in conjunction with epoxy, so I stayed away from etching primers. I media blasted my lower dash, used solvent based SPI prep/cleaner , followed by a second cleaning with SPI waterborne cleaner. Dried with air, followed by 2 coats epoxy. I plan on painting the lower dash and steering column the exterior finish color. Jim/Rott
Thanks Jim. I ended up using rattle cans and sprayed epoxy primer, surface primer, then base. Not as happy with the result as I would like. I think now is the time for me to buy a media blaster and spray gun(s). I have a compressor that can handle it already. I am going to go your route. Not sure if I can get SPI here in NZ, but I will look into it.
That's one reason I do not use etch primer. Because I am an epoxy freak. And I believe in Metal dipping for restoration. when I use metal conditioner I make sure that it is mixed 1:1 with water. ( Ed definitely does not need to condition that metal) it has some thing in it . (etch primer) Don't need to condition. But back to metal conditioning after I use a scuff pad elbow high rubber gloves . Then I use a steam Jenny power washer. usually in Febuary I do this. Because the humidity level in Pittsburgh Pa. is 18% to 30% Witch is very dry. When using very hot water you would be surprised at how fast it Drys. After that I have a Comercial weed/ bug sprayer (stainless steel tank) filled with Laquer thinner witch pulls the water away fast! Then if I have to dig out factory caulk for a couple days. if it starts to flash rust a little . I take a white t- shirt out of my house dampin it with water in a spray bottle . Then I sprinkle rust - mort on damp T-shirt and ring it out until it don't drip. Then wipe over metal ! The Rust disappears instantly! Just dot use rust -mort full strength. has to be watered down. Besides on Restorations you want you Mud (plastic ) work. on top of the Epoxy. mud over bare metal not cool on a car that you want to look at 20 yrs. later. Collision repair on every day cars is a little different. most people don't own their cars past 4-5 yrs. Does not matter.
Sorry Ed But I have been painting cars for over 30 Yrs. Do you know how frustrating it is to learn everything on hard knocks . Nobody told us painters the right way to do this stuff. Had to learn by are mistakes! That sucks But that's the best teacher! just trying to make people's life easier! I have a guy younger than me working at out shop. by 20yrs. He has been painting cars for 15 yrs. And he struggles everyday. Makes his job hard.
Now I am even more confused......???? Are you offended by my post? I honestly don't get it. I am just trying to learn.
