What oil pressure, water temp and tach gauges do you guys recommend for a 300 break in? Don't need anything fancy, just accurate. There are so many options I'm not sure which to go with. Was thinking Dorman since their other stuff has been good in my experience, but haven't used anything electrical from them. Also, could I use any V belt that fits right if I'm only running the water pump pulley without alternator, like one meant for a rooftop HVAC unit or does it have to be automotive specific?
I think any V belt issue fine for break in, but don't forget about it and leave it. You want the auto rated one for real use as it's oil/heat rated. I have the Autometer gauges, but I think it's kind of crap shoot unless you test/calibrate them. Paying for more expensive "pro" level gauges may or may not be more accurate.
I'm with Max, run whatever v-belt will fit. It shouldn't fail under break-in load for that short period of time. As for the gauges, anything is better than nothing. To me, oil pressure is more important than water temp on initial fire. You should be able to test an oil pressure gauge on a tire and verify with the tire gauge. For water temp, I use an infrared temp gun. I also use it to check each exhaust port to be sure I don't have a cold hole, which would be a sign of problems.
I'm ordering an auto rated belt that also fits the alternator, but for the break in I don't think I'll be hooking it up so wanted a temporary replacement. I'll probably end up getting the dorman and using the tire pressure to test it. Didn't think of using a temp gun for the water temp, I'll just do that. Thank you
Had a boiler panel laying around, apparently the threading is the same for its pressure gauge so I'll just use this one
Do not over think the break in. You can buy a cheap set of gauges if you need/want them for peace of mind. Oil pressure, Temp. Tach is all you need. "Back in the day (1970s) we made sure we put it together correctly, had all fluids topped off, set static timing, primed the oil, had fully charged battery, good coil, carb, a second body to assist, then cranked it, fired it up, then ran it for 30 minutes keeping RPM up around 2500, with some excursions into 3500-4000 RPM "whacks". Watched the warning lights, unless we had gauges, and almost never had a motor shell out. If it runs, keep it running. Do not try and tweak timing, carburetion or anything else. Just keep it up above 2500, varied and do not overheat the engine. (You can shut it down, cool down, and restart the cam break in to prevent overheating. Just make sure you can fire it back up without dragging a start.)
Just make sure you use a GOOD break in oil... https://drivenracingoil.com/c-1389195-shop-by-product-break-in-assembly-oils.html
So basically leave any sort of tuning and tweaking until after the initial 20-30 minute break in? And by dragging a start you mean taking too long to get it back up to that 2500+ rpm?
I'm probably not going to use a break in oil, I've been talking to an engine builder for the past few months who's been doing this for decades and he's pretty against them, not that they don't work okay, but not better than regular oils. Have yet to see him be wrong on anything so I'll trust him on this . He's also the one that made me realize that zddp additives are a waste of money.
Yes. If you set everything up and the engine starts, maybe a little tweaking in the distributor to keep it running, but resist the impulse to try and make things "perfect". Run it and get the initial (cam) break-in done. Then shut down, drain oil, inspect oil and filter, then add new oil and filter, then you can work on getting a base "tune". And "the "dragging start" is if you have to shut down due to heat issues (often a result of new build/friction/timing/lean or other things that result in car getting too hot on initial break in, you do not want to find yourself cranking excessively to get it restarted to finish initial break in time. You need to get a new rebuild up and running, without excessive cranking, RPM up to provide pressure and splash to the cam and bottom of cylinders/pistons as well as top end (valve train) oiling. As long as you can get it running, keep it running and not over heating, with varied RPM, you will have the best likelihood of successful break in of cam/lifters. Then change oil filter, inspect for anything abnormal (copper, metal flake etc.) And then you can work on getting the engine dialed in (especially fuel and timing), then take it out and do hard WOT pulls with some high RPM "engine braking" to seat rings. "Break in oil" You need to use a good break in oil. I use Joe Gibbs Break in Oil. It has no detergents, and high ZDDP. (Detergents wash away the ZDDP before it has the ability to create the "polyglass" surface hardening/layer on friction surfaces, especially flat tappet cam/lifters, but also rocker tips, and anything that has a surface to surface friction. (I have a friend that is a Petroleum/Oils/Lubricants formulator engineer for a large producer. I can send you some information, but it is pretty technical) Bottom line, you need the correct amount of ZDDP, not to much, not too little, for break in. You spend many thousands of dollars for a build, on an engine that is 50+ years old, with hard if not impossible to find parts, and you let someone tell you what you do not need without some verifiable data? Or, let those who have been involved in professional/lifelong (and sometimes, generational) experience and innovation of the scene? We cannot take all this knowledge to the grave. It is a burden if not shared. We do not do this for ego, we do it for love... My father and uncle were racing in the early 50s, created the LENCO transmission, port injection, blowers, quick change rear end gear boxes, among some other cools things. My folks on my mother's side were all engineers, QA, machinists and aircraft fabricators from WWII, Boeing, Beechcraft, Cessna, Lear, and Coleman. I grew up immersed in all of it, and am a professional motorcycle, automotive and aircraft (USAF) mechanic, with full certs in engines, hydraulics, flight controls, canopy systems, landing gear and A&P covering more than 20 aircraft Mission Design Series, as well as modified airframes in Weapons and Development Testing. No nonsense approach of figuring out limitations and how to overcome them, they also knew when to listen to people that knew and understood things and how to apply them, or recognize and solve those things that were a problem. They never quit innovating, or simply accepted that "this is as far as you can go". If you want to discuss further, PM me... There are people that "know things" and there are people that say they "know things". If I had a nickel for every shop/mechanic/engine builder that made a statement to do this or do that, I could beat Musk to Mars... Sometimes the "machinist/engine builder" knows how to put it all together, but that does not equate to knowing how it runs and what gives long life and performance. (not wanting to be a dick, only wanting people that spend time and money on this journey, to have the best outcome without getting caught up in someone's ego, and frustrated to the point of bailing... Some of us simply see the great benefit of folks that were no nonsense sharing their knowledge, spirit and determination, when we grew up in their shadow, and want to pass it along, because one day, it will all be gone...) Do it because you love it, not because you want anything else.
Your engine builder is a idiot........ Start a poll here on V8 asking about use or not to use break-in OIL....
Thank you for the info, hopefully I can put it to use before the end of this month if all goes smooth from here. As for the oil used, I understand that the ZDDP amount needs to be correct, but that would be between 300 and 500ppm according to the test sequences IV and IVa, now replaced by IVb. They were developed by the SAE and ASTM and I don't believe there's a more reliable source for this kind of data. Since virtually all API rated oils have over 600ppm, they'll do well for a flat tappet break in and running it going forward. Too much zinc will cause corrosion while not decreasing wear more than the minimal required amount too.
I'm going to ask him why exactly he's not fond of break in oils and share that here, he always has good reasons for what he does and doesn't use so I'm sure he has one for something this important.
He has no good reason... He a complete Idiot. Break in oil is only good for 200 miles MAX..... Most people only run it for 30-40 minutes.
WoW. I just read some of your older posts. You some $$$$$$$$$ money it that thing..... Now your going to turn it into scrap metal for a cost difference of 20$....
BTW Break-in oil has somewhere around 2000 ppm of ZDDP if not MORE in it.... So take a baseball bat with you when you talk to your POS idiot builder buddy.... When your motor fries....
He’s saying not to use break in oil because he feels he an authority since he assembled or machined your engine. USE BREAK IN OIL!
