OK Guys need all your help on this one seeing how i dont know alot about building a engine. I have a stock 1971 350 had a 2 brl on it now it has a 4brl. Motor has 62,000 org miles on it.I belive all stock. need advise on cams, intakes,Heads,if i should change piston size etc want to build this motor via this site i see there are alot of folks here that really know there stuff.Any ideas etc would surely help Thanks Jim
OK,I couldn't stand it any longer.We've answered these questions lots of times guys so get your opinions in here.Here's mine. Jim, how well does the stock engine run right now?Is it tuned up well?You want to make sure everything else is working good before you tear into the motor.This means your carb,ignition,i.e. plugs,wires,cap,rotor,timing,etc...Then if you want you can run a compression check to make sure your rings are sealing good,but with only 62,000 original miles those rings should be just getting broke in.Then I would go with a set of headers then a manifold(TA 350 Stage 1 Dual plane)with true 2 and a half inch dual exhaust to get the engine breathing good.Then depending on what your rear end gear ratio is you can go with a bigger cam and a higher stall torque convertor.If you will be driving this mainly on the street you want to go with the TA 212 cam.This will work with gear ratios as low as 2.56 but would work better with some 3.23s or 3.42s.For a torque convertor, your stock one will work but a 2600 stall would be better for your bottom end.Also a stage 2 shift kit from B&M is very nice. Remember it's the whole combination not just the engine so keep that in mind.:TU: Jeff B. NEXT
350 engine Jeff thanks for the info it is a great start to what i need to do. a list of parts i have so far include I have a set of hooker headers 1 3/4 to 3" i have a holley model 65-80457 750 double pumper the motor runs very well have the front clip core support etc. off right now jim Also jeff does b&m have a web site??
Yeah they have a site but from what I've seen on it they don,t list anything for the BOP TH 350 .However they may not list them but might build them for you.TCI makes one called the Saturday Night Special that stalls around 2,000 RPM.Idon't know how well this one works because I haven't heard a lot of guys talk about what type of torque convertor they're running.Right now I have the stock one and I believe it stalls around 1,700 RPM.Get the TA intake and a cam and you got a hell of a start for a really good street motor.Around 350 HP and 425ft.-lb. of torque.:TU:
If you want to redo your heads there are a couple of ways you can go.The cheapest bang for the buck would be to have a performance(not stock) 3 angle valve job done, have your heads milled for some extra compression,steel head gaskets(worth.5 point over Fel-pro blues) and if you feel gutsy or have the cash you can get them ported and polished and matched to your intake.The next step would be the bigger valves that TA Performance sells and hopefully before too long TA will have us some aluminum heads for our 350's. o No: P.S. Don't go much over .040 on your heads if you ever plan on having your block milled.And take the same amount off your intake face so everything bolts up nice and even.
Jeff Thanks so much for the info either everyone supports what you have posted or no one else wants to help a fellow buick man thats just wants to eat stangs etc up:Brow: thanks jim
No problem Jim, good luck with your project and feel free to ask any more questions or you can PM me or E-Mail me. :TU:
I'll chime in I'm running a B & M convertor in my '68. It has a mildly increased stall-2000-2200 rpm. Hardly noticeable. If that's what you want, ask for the Traveller convertor. I think all TH350 convertors are the same (no seperate BOP listing). I would actually suggest a somewhat higher stall speed. Don't forget to install a trans cooler, higher stall speeds mean more heat.
OK Guys Just a little update on the 350 1971 skylark front clip is off, motor is pulled, parts purchase so far TA Stage 1 intake Hooker Headers 1 3/4 to 3" TA212 cam TA 1405 Hydraulic Lifters TA 1505 high vol oil pump TA 1521B double roller timing set Holley 750 double pumper TA 1705 Gasket set B&M stage 2 shift kit Anyone think of anything elese i need other than a nother job Jim 1971 Skylark in the works
Don't forget oiling improvements! Along with the performance high volume oli pump you bought, and if the engine comes apart, spend the extra cash to make sure all oil passages are clean and maybe spend the extra bucks to have a quality shop chamfer the passages to the bottom end. I love the 350. although stock, I have in my '69, but it does run hot and I change the oil often to make sure there is no breakdown for this. Oiling and low pressure are the only Achilles heel for the Buford V8's.:Smarty:
Sweet69ragtop Thanks for the advise! When you say you change oil alot how many miles or time are we talking about? Thanks Jim 1971 Skylark in the works
I am pretty anal about it. I change the oil in my 350 4 times just during the summer months when I drive it. It only has 68,000 miles and purrs like a kitten so preventative maintenance is the way I go.
Other things you may consider Another good idea while you are at it is to install the grooved cam bearings and an adjustable oil pressure regulator. Since you are running a Hi volume oil pump save yourself the time and get a bronze distributor gear.The gears seem to wearout faster with a HI-V pump. :TU: Pat
It seems like the best advice is to stay awy from the hi-vol/hi-press pumps because they can often increase wear on an engine due to stress cause to turn them and more pressure than necessary. I would say use a good timing cover, new stock gears, booster plate and adjustable pressure regulator.
350 OK Guys Motor is out and in shop going with 10.2:1 pistons ta212 cam dobule roller chain stage 1 springs 3 angle valve job oil pump plate with oil reg ta stage 1 manifold holley 750 double pumper 13/4 to 3 headers crank polished line bored anything i missed? Jim
If you can afford some porting work on your heads or can do it yourself, you'll definately make more power than with untouched castings. But even without, it looks like you've got a good combo there.
Jeff pretty much described what I am gonna do to my 350... but I will probably do a rebuild first and probably go .030 while I'm at it.
If you are going to have the heads ported to match the intake, Have the valve seats ground also. This needs to be done before the valve job, since the valves cannot be in the heads. Basically what is done is all the crowning around the valve seats is removed so that when the valve opens, there is an unobstructed flow path. All excess material is removed (ground) so the piston chamber area and the valve seat are flat. This is definitely not a job for someone who has never done it... You will screw up a pair of perfectly good heads if it is not done correctly. This is quite expensive to have done, but You get alot..alot..alot more power out of those stock heads. :Brow: Have the oil passages in the block drilled and go with a 5/8" dia. pick-up tube as well.. especially if you are going to use a high flow, high pressure pump.
