Hey; I was gone for a week and came back to find I lost everything. I would appreciate it if I could get some of those suggestions & leads back? I did talk to Lynn at Mondellos and he said he figured I was running about 11:25 compression with the piston and zero deck. He thought the cam (JM3-4) would be alright but with the new intake and exhaust he said a MDV 1-2 would be better. 557/574 lift 244/252 @.050 110 seperation. I lost Darrell Detwillers number too to ask about running stock at Stanton OR? Can someone give me that back too or any other contacts give? Lost the info on Stanton too. :3gears:
What were the specs again ? If Lynn thinks you've got 11.25:1 compression, then you must have a pop-up piston, or some REALLY shaved heads. Sorry .... I just don't think much of the Mondello organization ..... After their windage tray broke at 3 of the 4 spot welds, and I had a "discussion" with Lynn about their 350 main studs not being correct for a 350 ..... We decided to part ways. I called ARP myself and got the correct main studs ..... Example: My motor 4.125" bore 3.385" stroke 64cc combustion chamber Zero Deck .040" head gasket 4.2-ish fire ring diameter Flat top - - Zero dome piston 10.4-ish to 1 compression ........
Building my 70 / W32 I installed the 2260+.030 forged alum flat top pistons Zeroed deck 3200 zero gap rings JM-3-4 Cam I am installing 2 1/2" exhaust Gessler is working on intake & exhaust manifolds. Mondello did heads, 2.072 X 1.680 valves. I understand what you are saying about Mondello. I'm finding out some of those things myself. ou:
Greg will definitely set you up properly with your intake and exhaust. :TU: That stick on a 110 though .......... uzzled:
Hang on a second ..... I assume the "2260" you are referencing is a TRW piston ?? o No: I may have to retract my above statement. ou: I'm not familiar with that piston, and with an NHRA'd 70cc chamber (or there-abouts), you would be right in the neighborhood of 11.25. Lynn may actually be able to calculate compression ratios ! :grin:
You can go to Google and type in Pure Stock Muscle Car Drag Race, or go here. The site tells you everything you need to know about the event, including the rules. http://www.geocities.com/psmcdr/
Forget about the Pure Stock race if you already have ported heads and Gesslerized manifolds (and broadcast it to the world). :laugh: If the car runs too good, you'll have a lot of people under your hood real fast. Only way around that is to Certify it. May want to look into FAST or NSCA Stock Appearing. Rules are a little more lax there and allow internal (non apearance) modifications. The beauty of all these, though is no matter how fast you are, you'll be matched with an equal car in a best of 3 match race. There's always a faster car (and usually a whole lot of them). With the new sandbag and qualifying rules, it's harder to play games also. FAST ruins ladders if that's your bag, but you'd better be in the low 11's within these rules to have a shot at that. Fastest Olds so far is Detweiler at 12.65 Certified Pure Stock.
Building my 70 / W32 Dave My friend already has told me what I've come to realize on my own; Ive hung myself advertising everthing Iv'e done to my car! ou: Oh well! Think I could disguise my car???? :bglasses: :Brow: Really though, I'm not a real competition type of guy anyways! I'm 52 and still love running the cars for fun. I know almost nothing about the competition part as you have figured out already. Would be interested in attending some of these races and maybe running in the stock appearing class if that's where I need to be! Low 11's? I don't think so! Besides, I'm not about to put a roll cage in my rag top. Right now I just want to get it running right!!!!:3gears:
With no bar you can only run 13.50 unless you never take it to the strip. Saying that, that cam Mondo's is recommending is a pretty healthy stick. Kinda looks like he's trying to drop your compression by going to a bigger cam. I'd suggest biting the bullet and doing one of three things. Putting lower compression pistons in it or heads on it that haven't been shaved quite so much. Or, run race gas. One other idea. Put this stove in a hardtop and don't worry about rollbars until 11.50. :laugh: If it's put together right it's going to be a lot faster than 13.50.
Understand. Computer got me in trouble this year, too, and is getting very expensive to correct. You don't really have a problem as long as it looks OK (Stock Appearing) unless you start getting fast.Then you get a lot of attention....... :Brow: :Brow: Not just e.t, MPH is what we all watch. Too many variables in the et with these tires. 52? I'm 60, you're just a baby! Come on out and have fun.
You can run internal engine mods without being a cheater in F.A.S.T. Check it out. Only the quickest 8 qualifiers go into the heads up ladder. You need to be well into the 11's to end up in the ladder. Everyone else gets to run best of 3 shoot outs against their closest qualifying competitor, just like at the PSMCDR.
W32 Well, I'm suppose to get my intake and exhaust back from Gessler this week! Can't wait! :grin: Any suggestions or tricks in putting it back together? Anythings to watch out for, other than too small exhaust manifold gaskets? I'm not going to make that mistake again! I have decided to try running the JM 3-4 cam and see how it performs. Will change if it doesn't do the trick. Will let you know results when done. Thanks again for your help. :beer :3gears: Dale
Dale, Any chance of sneaking a peak at the intake and manifolds before you bolt them on? :bglasses: May be sending my W/Z's to Gessler also, so I'd like to take a gander at em. Rocket Racing is doing the intake. Danke, Todd
Please when it goes back together take it to the track and let us know. I am curious to see how it compares to Darrel's Olds in MPH and ET. His cert sheet is posted on the certified thread, by the way. Actually he is planning on being at Martin Mi this June. You could run in F.A.S.T. Maybe a match race? :TU:
Building my 70 / W32 I'd like to bring it, but, what if it runs too fast? It's a rag top and I don't want to run roll bars in it! How fast can your time be before they require you to install roll bars?
You haven't lived until you've been thrown out of a track for running too fast. Whether it be for roll bars, or no helmet when you first dip into the 13's. Running without pants on, though...................... :moonu:
Can't find out unless you go. The F.A.S.T. guys seem to get a little more leniency at the track but I'm not in a position to say for sure. Your car definitely fits that class. I have seen ragtops at track rentals before deep into the 12's. Seems Joel gave you a personal invite some posts ago.....so run it.
Have you had your heads welded to make flush the divider between the center exhaust ports? If not, either don't use exhaust gaskets (that's what the factory did) or else make sure your gaskets do not have a divider between those ports. If the gasket material is not firmly clamped between head and manifold, it will blow out is short order, then probably lodge someplace in your muffler. You can simply trim the divider off whatever gasket you use.
Building my 70 / W32 I had my cross over in my heads filled with Zinc. Is that what you are refering to? I also bought EG-535 steel woven mesh graphite coated K-1000 exhaust gaskets. Good to 1000 degrees. Can you trim those if they are too small for your ports? Some have told me to just use high temp RTV. Do you think that is better? We'll see what it does when I get it together. We have a tract in Union Grove and one in Earlville, Iowa. I'm going to be taking it there to fine tune it. I'll bring a helmet. Do you need to pre-register to run fast? If so, how much in advance?
