You need to rotate the motor as little so the eccentric is at a low point. You care so once the pump is installed you can go right back to simplify things.
The eccentric has to be at a low point otherwise you are fighting the fuel pump spring, a good way to strip the threads of the timing cover. Try turning the crank 360* and see if the pump is easy to install. It should slip right in with no effort.
Buick does not use a fuel pump push rod, the lever on the pump rides on the eccentric bolted to the nose of the cam. Its easiest to install pump with #1 cyl at TDC. When installing pump, position pump so pump arm is angled downward SLIGHTLY, the pump will be angled a bit due to the pump arm contacting the eccentric, THIS IS NORMAL, the mounting bolts will straighten and center the pump to the timing cover.
Copy thank you guys I will be gettin back at it tomorrow and then hopefully all goes well and she starts
Alright my good sirs, as usual you guys were right. I angled the fuel pump downward a bit and was able to put the bolts just fine. All I have to install is my fan and the distributor. Larry you said something about the oil pump and using a drill?
Yes, you need something you can chuck into a drill (1/2" preferred), that mates to the slotted oil pump drive visible through the open distributor hole. Drive the oil pump with the drill until you get oil pressure. It will be very apparent when you do, it will load the drill down substantially. There is a specific tool for this, but you can make one out of an old screwdriver and socket.
Ok I got a long extension attached to this impact drive my buddy let me borrow and I have a socket with a flat head tip on it. I super glued it and taped it so it won’t fall into the timing cover. Thanks Larry I will be doing that now.
You should feel resistance after only a few seconds if using a drill motor. It should be quite obvious when its pumping oil.
I just turned it at a moderate speed for about a min with the drill. It felt as if the drill slowed down but I’m not sure if it was just me letting go of the trigger but I’m almost positive it wasn’t. Hopefully that’s enough
I really have to use force with my fingers to turn it slightly. I turned it a bit more with the drill and now I can’t turn it with my fingers
Just have somebody sit inside the car with the ignition switch in run. The idiot light will go out when you have pressure.
I’m on my own for a few hours. So if I put the key in the ignition and then turn it all the way clockwise as if I’m about to start it I should have no lights on? I think I’ve always had the oil light on in this position
If you turn the key to "run", the oil light will be on constant. Run is the second click, 1st is unlock the steering lock, 2nd is run, 3rd is crank, DON"T CRANK IT, just leave it in run with the oil light on. Then set up a mirror, tape it to the seat or something so you can see the light. Then run the drill.
Larry, you are brilliant with that warning light tip/recommendation! Can you take over this virus response oversight. Are you busy, we can wait?
I stopped looking at those threads a long time ago. I know where to get the most up to date information when I need it.
If there was such a thing as a virus that infects the BBB engine, I might qualify. As far as our government goes, NO COMMENT.
