Considering MAYBE going to a slightly larger roller cam

I’m just casually thinking, theorizing here,
A bit less lift, but more duration on a new roller cam, I would stay hydraulic.
My reasoning is I have more than enough low end torque, and I wouldn’t mind exchanging some low end for top end.
OOOOR, would moving my current roller cam FROM 2* advanced TO straight up, net me similar results??
Another very critical issue is my clearance between the rods and cam lobes, as I had to clearance my rods to clear some of the cam lobes in its current 2* advance position, and I’m wondering if I change the cam/crank timing if I’ll have issues?????
I’m just thinking here, if its going to upset my apple cart, forget it.

 

If I remember right, the benefit of advancing cam timing for low end is a larger net gain than retarding for top end.

Regarding hard parts clearance, even though it's more work I'd recheck if changing phase on your current camshaft, obviously a re-do if you go to a new camshaft profile.

My guess is 2° retard might hardly show on a timeslip, and unfortunately the checking is a major pain time-wise for what might be an insignificant difference, but don't just take my $0.02 on this.

Devon

 

I put tape on my air cleaner what more do you want!! lol
That 108 lsa made mine go way faster than before with more mph like about 4.
I actually think now a solid roller cam would be bad as and with good pistons and rods that can spin to 6500 easily would be the ticket
you had great 60 fts. 1/10 more than me. I drive around you by the 1/8 so keep the same cam numbers and go 108 if you have piston room.

I was going 78-80 in the 1/8 before now it is 79- 83 in the 1/8. and a 1.95 60 ft. You were geiting 1.85 60 fts so your off line is working real good.
This cam I am using woke this engine up like nobody's business, I would work off my cam and go from there where you want the numbers at.

I don't think moving the cam will make much difference if any thing I would advance it if I was going to do anything, that will probably take away a couple hundred rpm from the top end.
That way you will be out in front of me out of the hole.

 

I’ve read kinking your pipes almost closed is good ‘cause engines need back pressure, the more the better!!

 

You’re probably correct, my 2* advance probably doesn’t help or hurt.
I’m REALLY suspect of the cam specs on the sheet from TA, seeing as they have total lift wrong, and no info on where to degree too for X amount of advance.
I only make 9” of vacuum hot idle in gear, it’s not an issue, but the specs on duration would suggest more, as it’s not a radical grind.

 

Mark, Here is a radical idea. You could make your lifters solid. I've seen some Chevy guys do it. You need a washer as a spacer and replace the wire clip with a c clip. You can run about half the lash because the ramps on the hydraulic cam. It would act smaller at idle but bigger at top end.

CamTrix - US - V16 (youtube.com)

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/solid-lifters-on-hydraulic-cam/

 

That’s interesting BUT, you can’t disassemble the link bar lifters without removing the link bar, don’t want to do that.
That small coil spring beneath the plunger DID make me wonder if THATS where the intermittent clacking sound comes from that everyone experiences??????

 

Mark, 2 degrees isn't much difference but if you retard the cam 4 degrees, will allow more ignition timing and octane tolerance for your 11 to 1 motor.

 

I get 5" of vac in drive. I don't think you put in solids the cam is not profiled for that. I am sure the ramps are different for the solid cam.

 

I wouldn’t go to solids because of the cost, my hydraulics were near 800 bucks, I know solids are a bit less, but I gotta start trying to go faster for less

 

See if the intake is slightly higher than the exhaust on the overlap period, mine is slightly higher at that point. might have to take the rocker shaft loose so the lifters do not get pushed down in that period.

 

Push the convertor to 3500 and use 275/60/15 instead of the 50 series you use on back.

 

Run light aluminum rims like Guy does. The Buick rallyes are heavy.

 

put a damn 120 shot on there wake that B up.

 

Too much work, not enough gain to make it worthwhile. If you want to go faster, bolt ons, nitrous is a whole lot of bang for the buck, lots of improvement on your 60ft with suspension upgrades, tires, transbrake, etc and of course weight reduction

 

I gained a lot of HP going from a 116 lsa to a 108 lsa on the cam. Even the 110 cam I had in was not this quick. If my valves were not leaking oil it would probably be quicker.
The new heads would do it buy I don't see getting those anytime soon.
The 411 gear and overdrive trans is the correct ticket, I can see that now after all these years if you want to use the 350 engine, I can say it can take abuse and last a long time.

 

I feel there’s something I’m missing.
Yeah the car could be lighter, and nitrous would make it quicker, BUT, I want the engine to do the work on its own, no crutches, walkers, canes, if that makes sense

 

That’s what I’m REALLY curious about, a slightly larger cam, if it would wake up my top end a bit.
BUT, I have the clearance issue with the rods and cam lobes, I’m set with this cam, but another cam I dunno???

 

Mark could you post up all the details of your motor top to bottom?

also what are you running for a oil pan?


your 2 degree cam advance is really only making up for chain stretch above 4000 rpm or so.

 

You’ll read some speculation as to whether my cam is what was spec’s (JW recommended the specs) but Mike @ TA said it was a tad smaller than his sons cam, and his son did a 12.69 best???
I’m just a bit puzzled, the car pulls like a freight train off the line for a 3.42 gear (1.85 60’) pulls hard, but there’s something I’m missing, or maybe not??