Escargot anyone??????? Yes, ANOTHER build thread from me...

Discussion in 'High Tech for Old Iron' started by theone61636, Oct 11, 2014.

  1. pmuller9

    pmuller9 Well-Known Member

    You're right.
    Thanks for the correction.

    That would be the difference between EFI and Blow Through Carb

    Paul
     
  2. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Your not gonna hear or have detonation at no load ie free rev, only under load ie boost will you experience detonation
     
  3. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Well, the problem ended up being simpler than we all thought. We went over everything in the engine and the final step was to check the timing. Thats when we noticed the distributor body (the upper peice that the cap is attached to) was loose and could rotate. We verified with the timing light that even though it was only rotating maybe 1/16th of an inch it was enough to vary the timing by 4*. So i took some banding wire and secured the distributor and took a quick test drive....no more misfire. So when we got back i took out the distributor and had my buddy put a tack between the upper body and the shaft and now the car runs like a champ!

    I have yet to get on it from a stop or low speed but 3rd gear pull on the highway is stupid. I have the MSD dialed in for 3* retard per pound of boost so I should be at 20* total at 5psi. Im sure this is killing my power but i dont want to chance it until i get my meth injection hooked up. i will say the car seems to start much easier than it did N/A. i dont know if thats a function of the electronic fuel pump or what but its literally a one pump in the morning and turn the key and off we go.

    it's still running way righ during cruise so im goign to jet down the primaries and start working on getting her back to where it was before as far as idle, low speed and cruise is concerned. up top it pulls like a frieght train and hearing that turbo wine is addicitive. The turbo start to spool up at 2800 and comes into boost a 3000rpm and is at peak boost by 4000rpms so its not too bad for response. What i like most is thats it feels very progressive in how it hits. Again i havent tried to do a pull starting in low gear yet but i like how it responds up high so far.

    The Taurus dual speed fan is awesome. The popped fuse was simply becuase the fan is rated for 40amps. So i installed a couple 40amp fuses and wallah, no more issues. Im impressed becasue the fan shroud only covers the left 21" of the radiator core but i have yet to see temps go above 195 where i have the low speed fan kick on. Plus, on the freeway, im seeing temps just above 185 at speed so not too bad.

    I still have a few more tins to tidy up in the engine bay, get the meth injection set up, install the rear sway bar and tune the car for mpg but other than that its been a successful build. I took a quick video of the car getting into boost and ill get that posted later today.
     
  4. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    The cap attaches to the distributor body which is one piece and remains stationary in the timing cover once bolted down with the clamp. Im not sure I understand what was welded, because if you weld the shaft the body its gonna tear a lot of stuff up. Obviously you drove it but is the distributor clamp in place and secure?
     
  5. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member


    Not sure if you can see it but, where the red line is, the upper body of the distributor attached to the shaft housing portion of the distributor. The gray spot is where we added a tack weld to to keep the upper body from rotating.

    Untitled.png
     
  6. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Ahh I see, was thinking you had stock bodied distributor, doesn't say much for the petronix distributor if its separating
     
  7. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

  8. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Last weekend i got a few things done:
    Rear Sway Bar
    Since i had previously boxed my control arms I had to modify the way the bar mounted to them. I cut holes big enough for the anti-crush tubes to slide in and then i welded the ends to both sides of the control arm. After that it was fairly easy, just bolt in the bar. So far its made a noticeable difference going around turns. Its amazing how much less body roll there is now. I do need to replace the front bar end links as i noticed they were pretty cracked.
    10480135_10152976056040337_2036967517002231185_n.jpg 10480135_10152976056080337_7330114407827994831_n.jpg 10703860_10152976056180337_4572244474910184182_n.jpg

    You cant really see it but i also added a flex pipe in the exhaust just before the hard mount so that any engine rotation doesnt stress crack the mount.

    I also made a radiator overflow tank out of PVC. I needed something so i could pass tech tomorrow at the local track to race. It actually didnt turn out too bad i think.
    1661075_10152982997575337_2231440773970345135_n.jpg

    Other than that I sanded and painted both inner fenders satin black (i actualyl like this better than the semi-gloss since theres no shinyness anywhere to detract from the engine) to help clean up the engine bay, organized and zip tied most of the wires and hoses and increased the rear jets from 84 to 88. AFRs are much safer in the high 11s at tip in and low 12s at WOT. I'm going to do some ligh runs tomorrow a the track and start with the highest timing retard the MSD box has and go down from there. ive successfully made high speed runs where its only pulling 1.5* per psi and it was scary fast but i want to start slow at the track and work my way up.
     
  9. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Never under estimate the power of PVC :grin:

    I forget how much boost you are running, but I wouldn't be afraid to get the AFR's down into the mid-10's for upper rpm. Keep in mind, most engines have at least one lean cylinder, which always becomes the weak link. Aka, an average of bottom 12's might have one cylinder in the 13's. If there is any ethanol in the gas you are using, even 10%, I'd error on the side of even richer.
     
  10. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    If I see any 12's it is time to rejet. Low 11's make me happy. Good idea to sneak up on timing. I am pretty sure that it saved my motor when I changed the pulleys.
     
  11. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Wow, good to know. i've always aimed for mid to high 12s NA so i assumed that would be ok with an FI motor too, especially since im only running 7psi, but what you say makes sense and i would defintely rather be safe than sorry. looks like we're getting rained out today so no racing for me. next Friday is the last race of the year so I'll give it a go then. its all good though, itll give me a chance to make my air/oil separator and finish up tidying up the engine bay.
     
  12. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    They actually close the track there in sunny California?:Do No: When does it re-open the 2nd week of January?:puzzled: LOL(I'm a little jealous, here in the Enchanted Mitten the track has been closed since the beginning of November! :mad:)



    Derek
     
  13. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    So, tomorrow the weather should cooperate for me to make some passes. Im just going to take it easy for now. I just heard my engine for the GTO is done so hopefully ill have that back on the street by the end of January and then ill turn up the boost on this thing and see how much the engine can take. lol.

    On a side note: does anyone think it would be worth it to ditch the exhaust manifolds and use a pair of TA's shorty headers?
     
  14. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Better off with the manifolds for what you are doing
     
  15. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Yes shoot for high 10s or low 11s for air fuel on a turbo engine unde boost.
     
  16. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Well, she survived another night at the track. Cold temps and ****ty tires led to slower times than when i was N/A but my mph took a huge jump. My best time N/A was an 8.7@78 and this time it was an 8.8@84. I couldn't 60ft to save my life last night and they were ranging from 2.4-2.6. Yuck. The car definitely felt faster and since everyone was having traction issues too i actually beat a few cars i probably shouldn't have, most notably, a 2014 Corvette Stingray...twice! It was fun and i look forward to next season. Time for some new tires and shocks. I might even see if i can adapt some a-body no-hop bars to my diff.
     
  17. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    3:06 shows my first race of the night against a Challenger. Win for me...and yes, i stalled it out in the beginning. lol.

    [video=youtube;irZZV3wC2fU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irZZV3wC2fU[/video]
     
  18. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Someone must really like my car because this is the second compilation of my car at the track. Proof that i beat a new Vette. lol. That ZL1 Camaro was no joke though.[video=youtube;pmm-_RY-Dw8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmm-_RY-Dw8[/video]
     
  19. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    My best bud from high school had a boattail Riv in the late 70's. He owned a speed shop and put a nitrous system on the Riv. We would terrorize the Flint street scene with that car. Buick engineering heard about it and came to the shop to got a nitrous system to play around with. With sticky tires that thing would lift the left front tire (frame twist :idea2:)
     
  20. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    I think next up on the mod list will be better shocks. I have some old Monroe sensa shocks on there now which is great for extra loading but probably not too good for the weight transfer i need to get the rears to hook. im looking at getting some adjustable Konis but im not sure if its really worth it to get adjustable shocks on this car. Im open to suggestions.

    Also does anyone know of a bolt on rear disc conversion for these cars?
     

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