I took a look at those ones, I'm not a huge fan. Not for the money at least. I really like the look of the Olds cluster and would like to retro fit it. What would it take to do that?
I can have a professional contact you about if you'd like. He specializes in custom cars and has extensive experience with insturment cluster modifications. BTW, what part of the country are you in? He's in the Dallas-Ft. Worth Metroplex.
On the analog gauge deal- I had a friend in college who flew fighter jets in the AF. During requalification, he got asked questions about what the oil pressure is, stuff like that. He put his right index finger up and said, "That's where the needle is supposed to be". When you're in a dogfight for your life or looking for the opposition, the last thing you want to be doing is reading the digits on your gauges. In the early days of digital dashes, I hated those things. You're driving down the street, and the speedo's jumping between 34 and 35 mph. What kind of crap is that? I'll take a needle anytime. Just a glance, and I'm done. I like that needle-straight-up trick. Thanks for that, buick64203.
it's to bad that all new cars don't have gauges (oil pressure, temp, voltage) as standard equipment instead of those damn idiot lights!
That's the speed alert needle. A buzzer will sound once the vehicle exceeds the pre-set limit. The actual speedometer needle is red, not yellow as shown.
I was taking out my instrument panel on my '72 Skylark to replace the tach, it is an automatic. So I removed all the screws, was able to undo the indicator clamp, and undo the speedo cable. I cannot get the wiring cable out of the 2 'J' hooks. I have about 4 inches of play in the panel and I took out the radio to see the 'J' hooks. If any body has messed around with this before of have any advice that would be awesome.
Can someone give me some direction on where to hook up the temperature gauge and dummy light combo on my 65 Skylark 300 if a tee is not appropriate? Thanks
A tee works great with the oil pressure gauge/light, but not with the coolant temperature. I am not familiar with the 300 intake manifold. On the 350 and 400/430/455, there are 2 large threaded holes on the front of the intake. One usually had a thermovacuum switch in it, so you could use one hole for the light, and the other for the gauge sender. A tee isn't really practical.
Thats a good idea. I have bought instruments, and i will install them in the floor center console.Then they are invisible on car shows...
Excellent thread, Larry. Thanks, once more. I just bought Autometer oil/temp gauges (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2392) from Summit Racing for my stock '71 350 GS. I want to use these gauges with the stock dummy lights. For the oil gauge, am I going to be able to 'T' using the stock oil sending switch? Almost embarrassed to ask, but when unscrewing the plug on the front of the intake manifold, where a Thermovacuum would have went, should I crack this plug open when the engine is hot or cold? I ask because it doesn't looks like it's been touched for almost half a century. Thanks
It may be a bear to get out either way. Use a good 6 point socket and breaker bar. Drain the radiator before.
When we installed our gauges we added a length of rubber hose over the entire length of the copper oil pressure gauge tube. This will keep it safe where it passes from the front of the engine through the firewall. Glen
Hi Larry-I'm installing my gauges, and I do not see the hole/grommet in the firewall you're referring to. My '71 GS 350 does not have AC, so I'm unclear if it even has climate control vacuum tubes (I don't see any). I'm reluctant to cut into this virgin firewall, as these aftermarket Autometer gauges are just temporary, until I get factory Buick Rally gauges. What at do you suggest I do? Is there another access hole on my firewall that I'm not aware of? Thanks
Yeah, not sure if cars without A/C would have that hole. You won't be able to install a mechanical temperature gauge without a hole that is at least 7/8" in size. Mechanical temperature gauges use a sealed sending unit/tubing/gauge, so the sending unit has to go through the firewall. You may be better off with all electrical gauges.
