Dear y'all, weeks ago, an idea struck my mind that I can't get rid of: Restoring (updating) a Buick Skylark to a good daily driving car with focus on better fuel economy and improved safety. So it would only be a change of internal parts, I'd like to maintain as much charme and character of the exterior as possible and definitely won't try to convert it into an over-modernized racing car. I know this project won't be cheap and I'll have to read a lot into this matter to be able to do the majority of the work myself. I don't believe I can fix mold and rot on the chassis myself, so I'd need a technician here. My questions are: I) I'd throw a new motor in the car (if I have the choice, it wouldn't have more than 250hp) - would I also have to replace the transmission? II) I'd also install new brakes and power steering for better car handling. III) Would you also replace the suspension? Does the suspension contribute a big part to the safety? IV) If I only have to have minor rust issues on the chassis done by a technician, how high do you estimate the project costs calculated thumbs x pi? V) Would you replace the heating/ AC device or are those from the old days working efficiently enough? What's your opinion on my thoughts? Do they seem logical to you? Would you add/ remove anything from the list above? Thanks y'all for your help!
Howdy! Welcome aboard. To attempt to answer your questions:- First, it depends on the year of the car, if it's a '61-'63 you have a choice - either go with the 215 cubic-inch aluminum V8 which in some cases has up to 200 hp, or accept the fact that you are in for a major project. If it's a '64 or later you have far more options. Regardless of the year, you must bring the brakes and steering up to the level of the engine performance; this is much easier with the '64 and up Skylarks. There are few chassis parts being made for the early Skylarks. I'm always scared when someone says minor rust. There are few things in life that are always true; one of them is that rust is always worse then is apparent. Fixing rust is expensive, it is even more expensive if it isn't repaired properly the first time. Watch a few episodes of FANTOMWORKS. Actually, the old GM air conditioning systems were better then the modern ones, but are a lot more complicated. If your factory AC system is working OK I'd try to save it - if you have an A6 compressor (long and narrow) it's a great unit - but heavy. The R4 (short and wide) is much lighter. You will get a lot or opinions on this, but I hate unnecessary weight and would probably use an aftermarket Sanden compressor (or a similar unit). Getting back to your first question - if it's a '61-'63 you will have to replace the transmission unless you use the 215 V8. If it's a later Skylark, depending what engine/transmission combination that it has, maybe not on the tranny. Just remember that there are various versions of the THM 350, and if you have one that is a light-duty unit (such as would have been installed behind a V6), you will have to either swap it for a heavier duty version, or rebuild it into an HD unit. The good news is that the THM 350 is probably one of the easiest automatic transmissions to rebuild. Whatever you do, have fun! There will be a lot of help here on the board.
if it's mileage your after I'd seriously consider a cummins 4bt swap. you can buy a complete step van cheap as a good donor.
Depending on what year it is, and if you don't mind not having the "sound" of a musclecar....I'd look into a 3800 V6 and an overdrive swap. It'll be lighter than a V8, so you get the handling and safety benefits of better braking for "free". The cars that they come in stock normally get a realistic 25-28 mpg, which would be great in an older car, plus, they're dang near bulletproof and there's a ton of them out there.
All I can add id that if its a pre 1967 YOU MUST replace/service the brake system with a dual master cylinder. ANY failure on a single port MC reduces the brakes to ZERO with a floor bound pedal. With the dual unit, a front or rear failure will still leave you with the opposite end for emergency stopping. Better than nothing. Many DOT safety edicts were implemented for the 1968 model year including improved lighting, brakes, suspension etc. ws
I agree with Lucas go with a 3.8, they get decent fuel mileage especially coupled with a 200R4 and it is mostly all bolt in. The Buick 350 would be a little smoother and with a 200R4 would get decent mileage also. Good Luck with your project. Bob H.
^^ Wiser words were never spoken. If you're wanting something to drive any time soon that is the route you want to take. It will be half the price by the time you're done.
x4. Especially with shipping to Europe you'll be better off buying one that was already done properly. On the mileage... nobody is using them as a daily driver, like really driving these things day in day out. Depending on how much you intend to drive realistically the mileage is not really the big issue. And you have to potentially invest a lot on day 1 to improve the mileage and then need to run it 10 of thousands of miles to break even. my 02.
I'd add modern 3 point seat belts and halogen headlights to the shopping list. Even with upgrades, its never going to be as safe as modern cars.
If I wanted a Skylark and didn't care about it being original and was set on it being a daily driver, I would have to think LS engine conversion. I think there are a few kits out there. Definitely not the cheapest route, but I didn't see price as one of your wishes.
I'll also go along with the above, but the key words are "done properly." I missed the part that said you are in Europe. If you are buying an already done car sight unseen, you are taking a major gamble. There are some beautifully done cars out there, but for every one of them, there are a dozen that are cobbled together junk. If you are buying from afar, every owner will tell you that his/her car is the greatest ever. I have heard (and seen) many horror stories about internet/long distance purchases, including one highly-modified Mustang that arrived without it's supposedly high-performance engine. The cost of litigating this kind of case - especially internationally - is prohibitive. Caveat emptor.
Patrick did you read the beginning of the post? He wanted it to be a daily driver with the focus on better fuel economy. Anyway that is what I based my suggestion on. Bob H.
I did and certainly didn't mean to stirr up things . Just wanted to share parts of my (European) experience. Found out myself that fuel economy is really only relevant when you drive enough miles. If not maybe other priorities prevail, like a V8! All I wanted was to have our new member consider all options and alternatives.
most folks concentrate on fuel costs while completely overlooking total cost of ownership. it is much cheaper to run a rig that gets 15mpg with no payment than a car that gets 25 mpg and pay 300 a month on it. so really running a box stock skylark isn't a bad option.
Restoring (updating) a Buick Skylark to a good daily driving car with focus on better fuel economy and improved safety. From the original post. Bob H.
