Had the KB stage 3 head welded up on the #1 exhaust port. We cannot trim any more material out of this area, as I do not want another hole!.. Will now not be able to get the factory head bolt on. Suggestions for a bolt that can work in this very tight space? Joe is thinking a shanked head bolt. I did PM Jim- I know he is busy. Thoughts or suggestions?
Grade 8 socket head cap screw? Add a small diameter high grade washer, whatever will fit the new spot and as tight to the shank of the bolt you can find...washer might end up being a metric size, so search widely. Devon
That's what we were thinking. What is the thread size and pitch (if anyone knows it off of the top of their heads)?
If you used a head stud, would a crow's foot fit and let you torque it? You could also use a socket cap bolt (hex drive) Alternatively, maybe one of these: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/thread-size~1-2-13/head-type~12-point/head-width~1-2/
The ARP bolts have a collared bolt with a 5/8" head. That will work fine. I ordered my bolt kit through T/A, I'm sure Mike would sell an individual bolt.
Sorry, "socket head" is kindof a misnomer, if you ask me. You'll need a hex to tighten. They don't have much shoulder though, thus the recommendation to find a high grade washer to fit the spot at your repair. Socket head: Maybe even better, button head as suggested above...might be fine without a washer depending on head width: And sorry, I don't recall bolt length. The cyl head bolt holes in the block are blind, meaning not drilled through to the water jackets like other engines, so make sure you don't over-do the length regardless of fastener choice. Of course go for as much thread engagement you can without bottoming out. Devon
I would use the ARP bolts. They have the 12 point head and are designed for head bolts. The socket head cap screws may not hold up to being torqued to over 100 ft lbs. Your allen wrench may not survive the torque either.
Now granted the shoulder is there for a reason.....its one bolt..in a stock application...if one wanted to go the extra mile he could turn a bushing to go over the shaft to replicate the shoulder....but no real need to I myself would get a ARP and make it rusty its uses a 9/16 so it will give the needed clearance and look more better...but the Allen will work fine..use an thick "AN" washer under it
A "real" socket head cap screw should be "better than Grade 8" unless it's a decorative stainless steel job, or a Communist Counterfeit. If your Allen (Hex-key) socket attached to your torque wrench won't take the torque, you need to stop buying tools at Hazzard Fraught. ARP is a sure thing. DO NOT grease the underside of the washer where it contacts the head. Lube the bolt threads, lube the under-head of the bolt, but not the underside of the washer.
