Hello, I have a 69 GS with an 8.2 10 bolt (3.64) posi. With the pizza cutters that were on the car... they both spun the same amount and quite easily. I have now put drag radials on, and now it would rather one wheel peel. I have done a bit of research and it appears the Buick 8.2 does not have many parts available, and nothing else can be put in the housing. What can a regular back yard mechanic do to inspect to see what is worn out? Are my options to just replace the rear end with a 12 bolt? James
First, you don't need a 12 bolt.....if you are going to race occasionally, get a 71-2 Cutlass/Skylark 8.5" rear.....many parts are available and they are cheap....shorten your d-shaft 3/4" and have it balanced.....would put the stock rear away. I would also suggest going w/3.08 gears....best all around gear set for city and highway use.
Easier said then done as far as finding a 8.5 rear from an 71/72 Cutlass/skylark. Been having a hell of time finding one that I don't need to drive hundred of miles to get.
Contact Monzaz (Jim) on the board here. He's a rear axle/diff guru- he has a bunch of stuff at his place. He's in Richfield, OH. Great guy to deal with. He might have what you need.
Get out of that 8.2. I just finished adding posi to mine and it was an expensive ordeal because of lack of available parts and headaches. Would have been much easier and cheaper to go 8.5. After adding the posi, I twisted an axel and had to go to race quality axels.
Hey James check this site / link out.... http://www.buickperformance.com/82posirepair.htm George knows this site well...:laugh: Scott
James, What a timely problem and question you posted here. Exactly the same senario for me. Street radials posi OK, ET Street Drag slicks, One wheel wonder. Mine is the same 8.2 4 pinion posi as yours out of a '69 GTO. I'll pull apart my unit and see if I can do the Mike Garrison fix Scott Kerns posted. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help guys! Steve weim55 Colorado
It will go bad if you do not shim the side gears. You do not want to increase the spring pressure ...You want to bring back the spider gear clearances and take enough off the cones and tower to make the posi live enough NOT to go beyond specs or you will DESTROY the posi unit spider gear system. You have to understand the full workings of the unit before you can fix the problem. Garrison only fixed 1/2 the issue. He got the cones to grip again but I guarantee the spiders will fail the further the cones dig into the case. Jim J D
I have spoken with two rear end only places..the first didn't even understand when I was explaining that my 8.2 Buick rear was a bit different than the Chev/Olds. The second place understood the difference, but had zero options for looking to rebuild my rear. I spoke with Jim on the phone, he explained the issue and fixes....he is going to set me up! James
Ok, I haven't pulled one before... A few questions. 1969 Buick 8.2 (10 bolt) Axles are out, caps off. Does the differential need a nudge to be removed? Where are the spacers at that I need to keep track of? I searched for the info, but I haven't had much luck getting anything. Thanks, James
You need a J bar and you need to pry the carrier out...TRy to keep track of all the pieces parts the best you can and keep them marked for correct return to the case. Jim Just call anytime I will try to answer the phone the best I can as STILL alot of builds to assemble here. JIm
I talked to a 70 GS convertible owner who had the Auburn 5420114 posi unit installed in his original 8.2" rear. He said that it went in with no problem and works fine. The Auburn website shows another number of 5420113 for 3.36 and higher ratios.
Use an abrasive cutoff wheel and score thru about half way on both the retainer ring and the bearing, then put a cold chisel in there and bash the little bugger in half. A couple good smacks and they either split and fall off, or they spread just a bit and slide off. Honestly, that's the only way.
James dont waste your time on taking those off if your going to replace them.. The bearings have to be pressed on and off.. I have changed hundreds of them from my days in the parts store business.. That retainer does have to be hammered out of round on a hard surface then the outer race of the bearing is broken off and you attach an adapter to the inner race and put the entire axle into the press...
Just trying to clarify.... the thing before the bearing, is pressed on and is there to hold the bearing? (bushing/collar thing)
Yes you are correct... and the retainer cant even be pressed off... it has to be crushed out of round then it drops off... we used to set it on a piece of railroad track and hit it a couple of times with a BFH.
Retainers usually comes with the new bearings. Here's how I removed mine, post #4 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=221938 Jim is great to work with:TU: Bruce
