Bruce! Thanks for the pictures.... looks very doable! How do you get them all back on? Most of my bearing putting in experience is more motorcycle related. Freeze the bearing and warm the cases... tap them in. I assume that these can be tapped on?
OK, bearing and retaining collar pressed on at work. I slid the differential in keeping the shims in the correct spot. (it went in with a few taps using a plastic chisel... far easier than I thought it was going to be) Anything to watch out for as I assemble the rest of it? The ring gear is 60lbs, what about the end caps? Jim, really did me right on the re-work of my 8.2. RED arrows show where the cones were bottomed out and rubbing Green arrows show other parts of the cone that could rub also AND WE WILL MACHINE /cut too. Purple arrows show NORMAL WEAR AREA…this is where the cone is suppose to make contact and grip. Blue is where dirt and debris was trapped and cause some undo heat. We will just grind that clean with a 2” air sand wheel… pretty quick clean up there. You will see the spiders blasted and cleaned up and you will see the assembly where your springs are located at in the center of the unit. Hope you enjoy and know a little more about your limited slip posi unit
Jim, Your the man... I am back to leaving two solid blacks rubber streaks!!! not even a hint of the one wheel peal! One thing, the axle plates that hold the seal and axle in, do not sit flat like they did with the old seal when tightened up. I made sure the seal was all the way in against the bearing... but the axle plate bow in a bit when tightened. The newer style seal appears to be a little thicker. They do not leak and the rear is quite... am I ok? A few questions; Do I need to add the GM limited slip additive? (it seems fine without adding it?) Torque amount for the ring gear? (I used 60 lbs) Torque amount for the caps? (I used 55 lbs) Should I change oil in a few hundred miles? Anything to check after awhile? Thanks again!
