Some "FYI" stuff: The burn looks pretty even on all cylinders with that 2 barrel, showing a nice even fuel distribution to all cylinders with the carb sitting more centralized on the intake. This is why the big block aftermarket made the B4B intake for the big blocks--it places the carb more centralized on the intake and is worth more power vs stock design. The Buick 350's Qjet sits similarly from the factory; however, there does still tend to be a bit of a lean/rich bias towards cylinders closer/farther away from the primaries when the majority of driving exists there (as is common with street/daily drivers). Anyway, pistons look typical for older high compression Buick 350. There was no 'GS350' specific parts that I'm aware of--all Buick 350-4 engines were the same in '68-'69, no matter if they were in the Lesabre, Skylark, Special, or GS. All stock cams had the same part number, even the factory 2 barrel engines. Only difference there was a larger dish in the pistons used on those, and of course, the different intakes and Rochester 2g itself. The gray gunk is carbon mixed in with liquid (coolant, fuel, or oil), commonly referred to as crankcase sludge (or some other pet name) and is noticeable on the intake side of the head existing near the underneath of the intake manifold. As long as the pushrods are the correct length, have correct ball end sizes for the rockers (and lifters, which can be hybrid as mentioned earlier--meaning one side of the pushrod has a a larger ball end for the rocker while the pushrod ball end is smaller), the oiling is delivered through the head from the block and up into the rocker bar shaft and then into the rockers themselves, the pushrods can be solid or hollow since oiling comes from elsewhere. There will be no provisions for oiling from the pushrods through the rockers via an oiling hole on those type of rockers, so it won't matter there. EDIT: actually, I think this is incorrect. I remember there being an oiling provision intended for the oil to bleed down from the rocker to the pushrod ball. The important thing is pushrod length and ball end size correctness. (((ball size too small will sit sloppily inside the rocker arm cup and cause uneven wear inside this. It would work for a while, but long-term effects would be probable))) Use whatever lifters you like at this point (flat tappet hydraulic), as long as the pushrods match the length required. The "x3" you see at the end of the Crower lifter part number represents the 'cam saver' lifters, and are more expensive. Not necessary, but added insurance against wear at lower RPMs on milder cams. The camsaver lifers will have a 'flat spot' machined into the side of the lifter itself, which permits a small 'bleed by' from the oiling on the lifter which will trickle down and get more oil onto the lifter face and subsequent cam lobe. A similar result can be obtained by machining the lifter bore itself to facilitate a similar effect, but this will put the trickle effect in a static location and give consistent oiling to the lifter face/cam lobes vs the cam saver lifters, which will spin in their holes (as is normal and indeed necessary for proper cam/lifter wear and function), giving a 'hit and miss' effect on the additional oiling. Both methods are effective, but not completely necessary on milder cams. When used with milder cams at at lower RPMs, will add extra oiling where less crankshaft oil splash occurs. Almost seems logical to use the OEM replacement stuff now, doesn't it? Not that it's necessary, it's just simpler and takes any guesswork or headache out of the equation--or at least lessens it. lol We all love to tinker and work with our hands, whether it's us stock guys or hardcore racers. The stock cams were engineered by some pretty smart fellas, and the specs on those aren't just some random numbers thrown down on paper just to get the engine to turn over and fire. Much thought was put into every aspect of engine function and purpose. Not just raw power output, but other aspects including areas such as emission output, longevity, dependability, maintenance, repair, and subsequent planned obsolescence. Aftermarket cams of this calibre (the mild or grunt cams) gain power over the stock cam not by spinning it to higher RPMs and improving the quantity of air moved through the engine, but by altering the timing events of the valves to maximize power within a lower RPM powerband. This is usually facilitated by causing the valves to close earlier prior to compression stroke, resulting in an increased dynamic stroke, displacement, and compression (as I hinted at earlier in this thread). This normally increases the stress on the valvetrain components (increased spring pressures needed for stability, quicker opening/closing events which can add stress to valves seats, etc.) and causes the whole process to function stronger, but with a more limited life expectancy. Anyway, even a cam as small as the Crower level 2 will improve power over the OEM cam. I've noticed a tradeoff of torque for horsepower in this case, by about 10 or so numbers (10 ft. lbs. for 10 hp); so like Steve said, it's not a whole lot. What matters more than anything is air flow when considering power improvements. This comes from intake, heads, and exhaust. The cam is just the 'middle-man' who negotiates when and where things will happen. In closing, I honestly believe my information is accurate to the best of my ability, and if I happen to be in error, please feel free to correct me.
Good morning! Gary... damn! I don't even know what to say.... thank you so much for the information. I feel that whatever I write now is not enough for the time you took writing all of that. It's 8am here, I've just came to check the forum, going to work on one of my bikes this morning, as going on a road trip on Wednesday, and then I'm off to the workshop to work on the truck, get that second head out. I will, eventually put up a shopping list again. I will check what size balls the pushrods that were in are. Also need to check about cup on the rocker arms.. don't think there's a cup in there, just a smooth surface. thanks again Gary, and everyone else that has contributed so far.
If you want to use the Level 3 cam you can buy the cutter and cut the guides down yourself for the smaller seals if you want to run the better cam. You can use a drill motor to do the job yourself, the guide is sold separately so you can get the size you need. Here is the cutter and 3/8" guide needed for the sbb heads sold as a kit from Summit; https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-92045/overview/ After you cut the guides down you can use the more modern seals that install on the new .531" diameter the seal surface will be cut down to with the above cutter. Ask your friend that will order parts for you, he should know what seals you'll need after machining for the springs.(will now be common 3/8" sbc valve stem seals)
You don't need to cylinder head bolts, unless yours are damaged. Summit sells ARP studs OR bolts. Your preference really. What I'm talking about is EXHAUST MANIFOLD bolts. Get new ones. Preferably grade 8 or similar.
Get stainless. Higher then grade 8 won't rust As far as machine head for springs, listen to Derek. I was pretty sure it's just the seals need to be cut for. And as an engine builder he would know as he's building my engine. If he gets time to finish the block girdle. ( hint hint Derek!)
Evening gents! Another successful day down the work shop.... I'm pleased to say no bolts snapped! removed the second head but had to take it out with the manifold still attached to it as couldnt get a socket between it and the chassi rail, plus the bolt heads were really rusty and almost rounded... so definitely getting new ones. Oh.. and completely forgot one of my good friends has a Buick Apollo with the same engine as mine, so might be able to get the Qjet carb off him as his Buick has been in a barn for the last 12 years, I think there's only 2 in the UK and his is slowly rusting away.... Also, when I finished today I looked at the engine bay and thought... well, there's only the gearbox bolts and 2 engine mounts holding this together, so tomorrow I'm pulling the engine out of the truck. I know I said I wouldn't but what the hell.. only a few bolts. also means will be easier to assemble new parts and I can also wash and paint the engine. have a question about your photo MrSony. the tightning sequence, has an arrow pointing to the front, and I assume the diagram is of the right side of the engine, for the left is just inverting the sequence? and here's some photos from today. I think I'll hold on to order parts till I've had a look inside the oil pump, etc and post here. I also think most of the parts are all pretty much sorted with my decision to go with the Cam level 2. and I appreciate all the advice regarding the level 3 cam, but the extra cost compared to level 2, plus the machining etc, outweighs the gains I'd see or take advantage off. I think the only thing i'm still not too sure about is what pushrod length to buy. photos! Is this where my oil pressure gauge should be connected to? and where I'd fit the TA oil pressure regulator? Found a hornets next behind the alternator bracket! Heads out!! the one that had to come out with the manifold on... but removed safely. was on the vice just tighten up gently so I could undo the bolts. There was also this big valve thing in the end, completely stuck open, has a spring on it, but that was out of place as well. not a clue what it does.. can I just get rid of the valve? need to keep the flange though. and how I left it this evening... ready for engine out tomorrow! thanks, hope you like the photos. not sure if when I get the parts should start another thread or just keep this one going? bet you guys get pretty tired of seeing this all the time no?
Where you pointed to is the low oil pressure switch. Put the gauge there. Regulator goes in big bolt right next to oil filter Valve is heat riser for when engine is cold. You can remove but you will need a exhaust ball gasket or gut the valve out and plug hole with a bolt.
JP, You are pointing at the oil pressure sending unit. You can use a brass fitting to tee in a sender for a gauge and keep the light as well. There is a photo on one way to do this in the first post of this thread. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/gauges.197307/ The TA oil pressure regulator replaces the big nut on the oil pump cover. The pressure regulator spring is behind that nut. Look at this picture of an oil pump cover. http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1512A See that threaded hole on the left side of the picture? That is where the TA regulator screws into. http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1502
Looking good! Nah, keep this thread going. I love seeing your pics and progress, and while I can't speak for other people, I have a feeling they're enjoying it too, even people who aren't commenting. There's always something interesting to read about here on this forum. (((is that an auxiliary fuel tank or the only one because your other one is kaput?...or perhaps that's a beer keg? lol)))
Alec, Larry, Sony, Gary - thanks for the replies, I'm heading to the workshop now to pull the engine out, I'll have a look at the holes you mention. btw.. looks like a Quadrajeet just came up on eBay uk... probably can get it for 100.. is this the one you all been talking about? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rochester...158462?hash=item238d5736be:g:zxMAAOSwTVtZayQl
Don't get that one. You need one for a Buick. I suggest this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-R...480353?hash=item3d36fbdb21:g:k4IAAOSwuxFY3DAI Quadrajets differ on the inside depending on make, model, year, and application. A chevy qjet may run on a Buick but it will run like crap. Same if you put a buick qj on a chevy, etc. Also, they make electric choke conversion kits for the older carbs that use the divorced choke, the rod comings off the intake. Your holley probably has electric as well.
You need to have one built specifically for your engine. http://www.everyday-performance.com/ https://www.quadrajetpower.com/
Larry, thanks a million for that, got it! Saved it on my favorites so when it comes time to put together I'll go back to it. My truck has an oil light on the dash, so I'll wire that up and also add an oil pressure gauge. ok, thanks. taken it off my watch list. I need to check with my friend with the Buick Apollo if he still has the rochester on it and if I can have it. Getting one from the us, the postage is more than the carb.... There was not much progress at the workshop today... Well, taken the bolts off the bell housing and got it all ready to get the engine out, but then we realised we didn't have bolts for the engine stand (does anyone know what thread/size bolts go on the back of the engine to put on a stand?) and my friend who was giving me a hand was running out of time.... and I won't be able to get to the workshop for the next week and half or so. So I left the engine in and organised other bits like bolts on cardboard patterns etc. left like this...for another day.
Get ones that are long enough to bottom out in the block but go through the arms of the stand. Quick way to tell qjets apart, 99% of the time BOP (Buick, Olds, Pontiac) qjets have a straight inlet fuel fitting. Chevy carbs (and GMC, and I think 70s mopar) have the 90* inlet.
Sorry Gary forgot to reply to this. The keg is indeed the fuel tank!... a fuel hose goes straight down through the rear bed floor to an electric fuel pump mounted on the chassi rail. One of the things I want to do this winter is fit the original fuel tank back in and get rid of the beer keg. can't fit any of my bikes on the back of the truck with it there.
Hi all, it's me again! I'm back! after 4 days on my bike, partying with my friends is time to get back into this. can only get to the workshop on Wednesday and Thursday evening this week..... TA responded to my email... 48 dollars to ship the parts to the UK, so not too bad, but I'll be stung at customs when it gets here. also only 48 dollars because the parts are not too heavy, they only quoted me to send the hardned bearing, and oil pump parts and regulator. Anyway, I have some questions on 2 subjects: Lifters and Cam chain Lifters question: Lifters have to be the 68-69, no hole on lifters, no hole on pushrod - unless I convert, which I dont want to as that involves more parts like rocker assembly and also block oil line etc. Now I have clashing advice from before. Some have said to buy the lifters from TA as that's what matches my engine, no pushrod oiling. However, Steve Caruso said earlier that a lifter should also match the cam it's going in. So for example, as I'm going with the crower level 2, I should get the associated lifter. But everyone reckons the only people that do the no hole lifters is TA, meaning these ones from crower are more than likely to be the ones for pushrod oiling Steve Caruso also said earlier that I can use early style lifters with solid pushrods - Now I dont know what you mean Steve, could you please clarify, or anyone else, if this means I can just put early style lifters, solid pushrods, and no changes to rocker assembly and it will work fine? If I can use early style lifters, with solid pushrods and no changes to rocker assembly or plugging a hole, then I'll get them from summit, which makes my life a lot easier on shipping. Also, from what I have been reading, looks like I'll be better off ordering everything and put it together and then measure the pushrod length and then put an order just for pushrods....? will make it all more expensive, but this is the best way right? I asked TA for advice, but they just said they didn't know the specs on the crower 2 cam... as it was done by email maybe is not the right way to approach regarding tech questions.. Cam Chain: The cam I had put on my part list only has one keyway, and someone mentioned before a 3 way would be better. So yesterday evening I spent sometime reading about degreeing a cam, sounds pretty straight forward and was easy to understand the science/concept of doing it, to make sure TDC is definitely on the lobe top. only need a couple of tools which I have available anyway, and I'm sure I can borrow a degreeing disc off my frind with the hotrod shop. I read these articles whichwere very good: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24364/what-is-meant-by-degreeing-a-cam http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/803_.pdf the question is... would I really, really need the 3 keyway? the difference in price is a lot, so I would get it, but only if there is a major advantage on it. what would the 3 keyway allow me? am I right in thinking it would allow me to advance it 4* and therefore improve low end grunt? is that right? thanks all! hope to get some more photos going as all the reading is pretty boring sometimes.
