4 grade 5 3/8 bolts from the junk bin, 4 nylon lock nuts. 1 mean drill bit.. The frame pads will have to be massaged a little to allow the mounts to sit flush because the bolt heads are slightly in the way. But, if the long bolt will pass through all of the holes you are good to go. This is the mount from the drivers side of the turbo car. Without the bolts it is actually two pieces. Who cares. The good part is that at idle and light throttle the weight of the engine rests on the rubber and is very smooth. When you apply 500lbs of torque the bolts hold it together.. This has held up to a little abuse..:bglasses: To say the least..
I might have to do that the next time my engine comes out; seems like a little extra insurance. Anybody know what amount of force it takes to stretch a bolt or tear the threads off one? I'd imagine it's a crazy amount of force.
Back in the dark ages when I raced Ford flatheads on an oval track, that's what I would do. The stock mounts would break virtually every race. Bolting through them solved the problem and I never had a mount failure again.
I broke a rubber mount with a stock 72 engine... Never thought to check the motor mount as the cause of all my header gasket issues but then I loaded up the converter with the hood open:shock: Next time the motor or the mount comes out I'll definitely be trying that out
I broke a pinion yoke, driveshaft, and pulled the tranny case right off the bellhousing area.. Motor mounts survived.
Some one asked how much force it would take to break the bolts, answer: 9,300 lbs ea for a total of 18,600 lbs. It looks like you used nylock bolts, I'm not sure how well the nylock will hold-up to heat over time. You may consider putting loctite 648 on the nuts which will hold-up to 450 degrees and must be heated to 500 degrees to release. I have a GN and I went to Home Depot and bought 3 ft of 1/4 stainless steel cable, two clamps and a 3/8 closed loop eye bolt. Wrap one end around the frame and replace one of the alternator bolts with the eye loop bolt and attach the other end of the cable to that. It's good for over 1,000lbs and the total cost was $7.00.
Well my 350 broke the frame in half due to too much torque. Major welding to get it back together and solid...
Maybe I'm lucky so far but be er broke a mount, been running 10.90 on a 3850 lb car off the tbrake or footbrake. Going to add front plates here soon. I would e worried in making the mounts stronger is only going to flex the block more. The stronger you make the mounts now the over forces that would had broken it are going to go into the block. Thus will distort #2 main, the cylinders in that area. There is always a week link, or needs to be and I try to make it a cheap to replace and easy to get to part.
There are lock nuts that do not use the nylon insert -called high heat lock nuts. One thread is distorted and holds the nut on.
Agreed. Something like this would be a big help for clearance: Just search for Ultra Low-Profile Hex Socket Cap Screw. Devon
There was another article out there I saw where the two pieces were welded together instead of bolted.
