iv been trying to take out the ignition lock on my 72 lark. lost my keys and the spare doesnt seem to work. and i think its broken... anyhow, iv gotten as far as taking off the steering wheel, locking plate and turn signal assembly. my problem is... how do i get the cylinder lock out? keep in mind that i dont have a key that will turn the lock and the little chrome grip plate thingy brock off when i was trying to get it out! hope yall can help! pete
You should see a bolt that runs down the side of the cylinder, remove it and the cylinder should pull out. I think it is an allen head bolt.
nope. cant find an allen head bolt. i already too off three bolts. theres on more but its nowhere near the ingnition lock. pete
I just submitted an answer and got kicked out. Let me try again... On my 69 there is a spring-loaded tab on the cyl that must be depressed with a thin blade from down the neck of the column, and then the cyl slides out. But I remember having to turn the ignition to RUN to do it. Let me check.
ok. heres a dumb question.... since i dont have the key, will a screwdriver work? i dont know what else to try?!? pete
I'm not sure if you can read this, its out of the Chassis Service manual...o No: Its says to use a thin strip of metal, and the key can be in ANY position from access to run.
hey jeff. is this for a 72? ill have to try it when i get home. its killing me that i cant try and fix it right now. i think im going to retire from work :grin: pete
When doing the following be careful or it won't work- If you have the locking plate out and can see where the three screw bosses are, look at the top right hand hand one that looks like it's in the center of a capital P laying down. Right below that there is a very deep depression that is shaped like a rectangle. If this area is not open or there is no hole, you need to make one toget access to the clip holdng the lock cylinder in place. Take a hammer and a straight slot screwdriver all the way to the left inside the deep depression, and hit it until the casting breaks. BE CAREFUL! if you hit it too hard youll never get the cylinder out. ONe or two good whacks will do it. Then take either a smallet screwdriver or an awl, stick it in there, and pull the lockcylinder out while depressing the clip. Youll feel it. GM over casted alot of steering column bowls back then and I have seen them filled and also with the slot accessible. I think you might have to make your own by the sounds of it. Paul
well with still no luck, i think im going to take the advise of my girlfriends father... buy a drill, and drill out the tumblers in the cylinder. hoping then that i can get it into the "run" position so i can get the damn thing out. any thoughts on this? pete
Can you see the area where the thin strip of metal is to be inserted? This will push in the detent that releases the cyl. The book says the the key position can be anywhere from acc. to run.
jeff. the pics you posted look similar to my column but i dont see anywhere i could put that thin strip of metal. there is a small tab that looks like the release but i still need to turn it to the run position. pete
10. The lock cylinder may be removed in any position from "accessory" to "run". However, the "accessory" position is recommended because of its positive position. {??} 11. Insert a thin tool (small screwdriver or knife blade) into the slot next to the switch mounting screw boss (right hand slot) and depress spring latch at bottom of slot, which releases lock. Remove lock. Can you get the cylinder to turn at all, with or without a key? Sometimes they will turn back to acc. even without a key after all of these years...
Have you considered calling a locksmith to replace the cylinder for you? I've drilled these out once before... I got lucky I think because I didn't do any permanent damage. Be careful, use a small drillbit, and go slow and STRAIGHT!
