Ken "66 Wildcat" Lisk

We got the carb installed and had to fab the kickdown connector and the choke tubing. Works OK. It will be OK until Tommy rebuilds the 4-jet.

We didn't plug the heat passages.

Ken, I have the 4 Buick Rallyes from my Riv. They are 20 footers, and there are 225's on 2 of them. They are all yours for free if you want them, tires and all.

I don't think full-length headers are available for your nailhead, so shorties are the only option. And you'd be surprised how a good shop can fit pipes around components these days.

I'm at a client and will post pics of the carb later tonight. Walt did a heck of a job figuring out the 2 mods we had to make. None of the original stuff has been modified so you can just put it all back when the 4-jet is ready.

 

Here you see the mod we had to rig for the kick-down linkage. Not pretty but it'll work until you get Tommy sweet-talked into rebuilding the 4-jet.

 

Here is the tube we had to fab and bend so the choke works.

 

Like I told you on the phone, no mod was done that couldn't just be removed and replaced in a minute with the original parts.

 

Ken if your going to leave the heat valve open all the time you may want to get one of those bypass pieces that Joe Naab makes. They are real nice.

 

Hi Doug-

I'm not real clear on what you mean here as my familiarity with the Nailhead is limited. Is there an explanatiom you can point to?? o No:

On my end, today I shipped the carpet off to Yardley. I also got the insurance squared away. $69 for six months! I ordered a rebuilt Master Cylinder from RockAuto and what I received last week was someone's core return! After I let them know how unhappy I was :rant: , I received an email today that the new one has been shipped and I should have it thursday. Tom, do you have a set-up we can drag with us to bench bleed the master?

Yardley tells me the new rubber brake lines have arrived at his house. I also ordered a mechanical 270* triple gage set from summit for delivery to Yardley's. We'll see if we have time to install it. Are their stock locations on the nailhead to plumb in the water and oil pressure sensors? Or will I need some additional plumbing pieces?

I need to call CARS tomorrow and see if my engine paint has shipped. This is my first time ordering from them, but I understand they sometimes are not too speedy.

 

:laugh: With so many voices in my head I can't understand me either :eek2:

Tom T. mentioned you could keep the flapper valve on the heat riser on the exhaust manifold in the open position to keep those exhaust gases flowing outward.
Joe has offered a replacement piece so you can take out the entire flapper valve section of the exhaust and bolt in his no restriction clear flowing piece.
Just something that could be done to improve exhaust flow when your doing the exhaust system. I'll find and bump up Joes post for more info.

Now everbody do the " NO RAIN" on Sat. chant!!! :beer

 

I have a couple heatrisers....one is gutted with the holes welded up.
The other looks excellent but is sticky....it would be a good one to weld open
and still look stock and not have to worry if it's working or not.
Let me know if you are interested.

Peace WildBill

p.s. take the plug out of the back of the drivers side head and put your
water temp sender there....it's worked for me for the last 35 years.
A brass tee fitting with the copper oil line off the 90 and the stock pressure switch out top works best for the oil.

 

Thanks Doug and Bill for the explanation on the heat riser. I had missed that comment from Tommy T initially. Doug, maybe on Saturday (no rain chant mode: ON!) you could show me the piece and the theory behind the modification.

Bill, thanks for the heads-up on the sender locations. :TU:

Just a few more days to seeing my 'Cat in person.....

 

Ken, the piece Doug's referring to is a small cylinder that bolts to the exhaust manifold. The head pipe then gets bolted to this small cylinder. Inside this small cylinder is a "butterfly" flapper that is opened and closed by a heat-activated coil spring. When it is cold the flapper closes to redirect hot exhaust back up to the intake manifold to assist in warming up the car faster.

These butterfly flappers very frequently freeze in the closed position, hurting performance and drivability. Welding (I wired mine) the butterfly open prevents this problem. Also, gutting the piece is common. Of course, with shorty headers there is no provision for it.

 

Gothcha! Thanks!

Gauges will arrive at your house tomorrow. I'll be bringing along a copper tube kit. I need to figure out the thread size for thr "T" I need to pick up per Wildbill's post above. A "T" and a close nipple I suppose.

I'm starting a fight with radiatorworld.com now. They sent the wrong radiator and want me to pay shipping and a 15% restocking fee to return it! What BS!

Let me know how you make out with CARS on the paint. I'll be offsite at a Battle Royale with one of our customers, so I won't be able to call Tom T until later this afternoon/tonight to discuss logistics.

Thanks!

 

CARS SUCKS!!!!!

You ordered the paint last Thursday. As of this morning the order was "just being processed"! Forget that! UNACCEPTABLE! What, they have so many orders that it takes them 4 business days to get around to processing them? I seriously doubt that.

I ordered it from Bill Hirsch. It'll be here tomorrow. I told CARS to cancel your order for the paint.

For the life of me, we've told them a million times that their customer service sucks royally, yet they refuse to do anything about it!? It's their funeral. I'll buy from anywhere except CARS from now on.

 

I'm also firing it up with RadiatorWorld. Their order process says to check that the inside core measurements and the year, model, and engine are correct when ordering. Now they are saying that I was supposed to look at some small artist rendering of a radiator to confirm that the connections are correct too. BS! I followed the ordering procedure and now they want me to pay a 15% restocking fee plus shipping. Oh yeah, I challenged them as their website states a 10% restocking fee. They told me that was a typo and that they would fix the website right away!

So the bottom line is they sent me a radiator that never had any business in a '66 Wildcat (might as well be a Ford radiator) due to their own catalog error and now I have to pay the restocking and freight back? :af: Not before my credit card company and the state's attorney general get involved!

 

OK! Interior is done. Glove box is now operational. The owners manual and accessory catalog were in there with a bunch of other stuff.

 

more

 

another

 

Glove box contents:

1966 Buick Owner Protection Plan book
Buick Engineer Approved Accessories for 1966
1966 Buick Owners Guide

 

Now I just need to bolt it all back together...

 

Dang! That interior looks brand new!!!!!!!! Wow what a difference the rug made! And look at those polished up sill plates! :eek2: Seriously, it looks absolutely mint. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the brake and gas pedal look like they have no wear whatsoever! What a gem! Once the paint arrives tomorrow for the engine that'll look beautiful too!

You should be pretty damn proud of yourself. You're taking a neglected piece of Buick iron and in short order giving it the TLC it deserves.

And once again, I THANK YOU!!!!! :TU: