Thanks for that whole breakdown of how that works. I’m getting a better understanding now. I was worried that timing was one of those things where just a handful of degrees would mean eminent danger to everything associated with the engine! I can’t say I ever heard any pinging at those higher revs, but I was weary to keep checking over like 2K rpm when I’d see those numbers on my timing light! Thanks
I know this might not be exactly the same, but if I’m looking at a red, a black, and a white off the coil, but can I assume the following similarities to the picture I’m including?: - White will be a tach output (left disconnected and covered because I don’t have a tach at the moment) - Black will mount as pictured with the ring terminal - Red will connect to my switched 12V ignition lead - The unit will ground itself via the distributor clamp Thanks for any input. I can’t imagine anything else that would need to be connected but that’s why I’m asking. I just hope I can somehow source out the plug that would go into it so things appear clean (especially when I finally have a tach wire running to it).
7 pin is computer control. You want 4 pin. All you would need if cap is correct is 1 power lead to ignition feed then the connector from the module inside cap.
http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...ystem-function-tests-and-modification.248990/ https://s3.amazonaws.com/gearbox-yearone-com/part-images/l/l00510.png
Thanks Larry, that part looks perfect. Just thought I’d post an update as the parts roll in... Got the cap, rotor, coil, and plug wires today. I was kind of worried I wouldn’t get the retaining screws for the coil. Well, I didn’t. Now I’m off to source screws. Found out today that the coil doesn’t include the ground strap (middle terminal on the distributor cap plug... the one that receives the harness plug from the HEI module under the cap). Should have one by Saturday. Easily sourced part number is DR31A. I’ll list the GM part number later. It also dawned on me yesterday that the coil cover (the one that always says “latch” that mounts to the top of the cap) wouldn’t be included with the distributor cap. I was right, but luckily ordered that in advance last night (ACD part #: 1875960X). What didn’t occur to me was that coil cover will prob require its own screws. Fortunately all these little forgotten parts are cheap ($2-$8), but the lack of them will leave you stuck in the garage till they arrive I guess. Should have all the parts in by Saturday, but can hopefully drop in the distributor and 90% of the rest by tomorrow night. Hopefully at most I’m down 2 different screws (6 screws total). Scrambling online to cross reference part numbers and see if one just happens to mention screw pitch/length. Edit: found some obscure post in some car forum listing the latch screws as 10x24 but no length. I’m more concerned with the coil hold down screws being exact as it has to hold the coil down against the rubber insulator sitting over the rotor bushing and remain snug enough to connect the ground to the ground strap and the coil indefinitely. Yes- I’ll admit this whole process sounds like a huge pain in the a**, but it’s helping me learn some intricate things! If it’s a failure I guess I’ll be posting a brand new HEI distributor to the “for sale” section. Anybody know anyone with a ‘78 Buick LeSabre (VIN X)? Lol
Any year hei screws will work. Go to any junkyard that has anything from 75-late80s instead of scrounging and searching. Grab a whole unit if you fee like it. unless its a buick it wont fit, but all the extra parts wont hurt.
Thx MrSony. I wasn’t able to make it to a junkyard with work today, but saw a pic of the factory screws and they looked like the standard “Plastite” screws. I took apart an old computer monitor I had sitting and had a nice assortment. Luckily I had a few that dropped right in perfectly. I’d definitely go the junkyard route if you have a good one near by. The handful of little parts like that could really save you the frustration of tracking them down online.
I’ll do a better update tomorrow with some pics when I get some time, but I got all the parts dropped in last night and it’s all up and running just fine. I was worried I’d have to do more than just drop the new distributor in with the rotor pointing the same as the one I removed (like maybe have to find cylinder 1 TDC on compression and set it from there). Luckily my first guess on the distributor degree placement was close enough to show a sign of life. One adjustment later and it was running. Another quick adjustment and it was purring along better than I’ve heard it to date. I have some NGK V-Power plugs on their way in to NAPA tomorrow so I can take advantage of a larger gap. They’re the NGK 6945’s (I forget the UR#), just going off memory. Thanks to previous posts from many of you here (and especially Larry70GS), I am pretty sure I ordered the right ones. They also ended up being the same plug recommended when I search for “1978 LeSabre “X”” on the plug recommendation web pages. Thx again to everyone for their help!
Sorry- still need to do an update on the full list of part numbers in the first post in case it helps someone down the road... Finally got out tonight for a decent ride to test everything with the new setup including plugs. I set my timing last week with the new parts installed and could already feel a difference once I dialed it in. The ride today was beyond what I could believe. Everything from idle to hard acceleration was noticeably better. It runs smoother at all rpms and the acceleration just felt more “crisp” and had no hesitation at all. Maybe my old distributor did have some issues which made this upgrade feel more dramatic to me. Who knows... I honestly can’t complain though. Total parts (including the little ones I nearly forgot) for the whole swap was still under $200, and if I ever have an issue down the road I can replace any single part as they’re all factory parts. Install was pretty much a breeze and even though it’s staring you in the face right on the front of the motor, it’s subtle enough that it isn’t screaming “I’m the wrong part for this model/year”... if that even matters. I was fortunate enough to have this new distributor drop right without any major modification (no grinding to the intake, no radiator hose issues). I did have to pop my fuel line out of the little holder/clip that mounts to the intake. A slight tweak to the fuel line and all was good. I believe I can even flip the clip around 180° and have it hold the fuel line in closer and still be secured where it was. It’s also almost touching the radiator hose when timed correctly, so I may either see if a ‘78 hose mates right up, or shift everything over one spot on the distributor and re-set it so the high point on it (wire input/output) is pointed more forward and under the radiator hose. Then again I might just leave it as is because it’s really fine and I’m probably just looking for issues. In the end I couldn’t be happier for the $$$ vs performance I have. I really appreciate the help form everyone that chimed in on this thread and also wrote the numerous posts I’ve read on similar issues. Thank you all, Dennis
The DUI stuff is fantastic! You would not regret spending the $$. Personally I would RUN away from the MSD Ready-To-Run junk. My .02!!
Yep- they seem to have some of the most positive reviews. I still might go with them on another build. I saw mixed reviews on the Pertronix so I guess that’s why I shifted directions after my first one was found to be DOA. I do have to say this about Pertronix... their customer service with my situation was second to none. I read other horror stories virtually saying that you have a better chance of hearing back from Santa with a letter addressed to the North Pole than hearing back from them. My experience was the exact opposite. I sent them an email outlining my install parts/processes as well as some initial and post electrical testing with my multimeter. They responded (in less than 24hrs) saying “it appears to have been a malfunctioning part” and “we are sorry for the inconvenience”. They simply wanted me to snip the wires flush with the body of the module and then send a pic. They would then ship me a replacement. I can’t argue with that. As I said, I had already shifted gears and started to go in another direction, but that info passed along to my retailer was all I needed to have in order to get a full refund from them.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/A-Team-P...BLACK-Cap-65K-VOLT-COIL-300-340-350/937848366 new hei 350 sb buick Dan
Yeah, there’s some similar ones on eBay <$100 but I wasn’t sure of the quality. Plus, I have a habit of over-complicating everything lol.
