Have Any Fellow Members, Had ANY Experienc with Por-15/Eastwood or Any Other Compairable Products? Is the Material relatively Easy to Work with For a Do-It-Yourselfer? Has Any Other Members Used The Fuel Tank Restore Kit? With Any Success? Does the Product Perform as Advertised? Will the Product , When Properly Applied, Withstand 100 Degree Temperature Variation? Will the Product Stand-Up over an Extended Period of Time without Major Failue/Breakdown? I would Like to Hear for Any/All Fellow Members Regarding, Use/Application/Experience?Quality and Preformance of this Product. I, Myself, like Anyone Else don't Want to Spend Useless Hard Earnerd Money and a Good Deal of Personal Labor and Aggravation, on ANY Product that Does NOT Perform as Advertised. An Informed Consumer, Is Forwarned. Any?All Comments, Experiences, I would Consider, Valued Information.
I know you're looking for first hand experience, but I thought you might want to read this article comparing the two products you are interested in. Yardley pointed me to this article. I have the Rust Encapsultor product sitting on a shelf here ready to use as a result of reading that. Good luck!
POR I've used por-15. Very easy to use. I'll give you a pic of what it stopped. Don't forget to use in ventilated areas. :grin: ____________ Rob 1972 Riviera
tank sealer I have used the tank sealer with good success. It doesn't harded until it gets gas on it, worked great and sealed some pinholes in a tank. The Por 15 is great too. Other products (RE) have good press as well. Read the directions and you will do fine. - Bill
I just r3eceived the Tip catalog. They have the POR-15 engine paint, for the Nailhead motor, Buick Green. I was just wondering if anyone has tried using this paint and was the color correct????. Jim Schilf palbuick @ aol.com
Hey, Jim Good to hear from You. The Color IS Correct for Bucik Engines, Buick Green '53-'65. The True test is Weather the Color will fade, and withstand the Element and Conditions caused by Heat, Like the Color of Your Clothes Fading, due to the Heat of the Dryer over the Period of Time. This Question, and a Very Good One, Can only be Answered by Fellow Buick Owners Who have Used This Product. Which is One of the Reasons, I Posted This Question. Experience IS the Best Teacher
Before you use any POR-15 products, U MUST have plenty of rubber gloves, buy a boh of them. From experince this paint is not removable from skin, it has to weare off. Anothe tip, if you have nay old tools, such as old wrenches jack handles, that were originallly painted black, brush a light coat of por-15 on item wait a few minutes then wipe off with a paper towel. This will leave a very smooth flat finish, and will look like it has not been painted. I have done this on several old wrenches and they look great. Jim Schilf palbuick@aol.com
You do need a very well ventilated area. My first attempt to use it, I didn't open the barn door much or use any fans. It was really bad, I thought I was going to pass out:eek2: You do need a lot of gloves, as it doesn't come off well at all. It has to wear off the skino No: I have lots of them, as they are 1 of the products I sell with work. I get them by the case in boxes of 100:Brow: I can't say how it wears on the car, as mine is just getting painted with the stuff now. Time will tello No: Dan:3gears:
I've used POR-15 for years. This stuff is tough as nails. I've used the Red for the oil pan and block, Exhaust manifold paint and the "bare metal" paint, all with great success. I've used the standard POR-15 on the wheel wells, frame and engine bay. All look great !!:grin: I've also used the Por-putty and the trunk restro kit. The stuff is water thin and will run down your arm if you are painting overhead. And unless you are doing a large area, buy the 4 oz cans and use the whole thing at one time. Using the "plastic wrap" to seal the cans is OK if only for a couple of days, but it will skin over quickly. Also make sure you clean the parts really well, this stuff doesn't like dirt or grease.
Used POR-15 on my frame, suspension components, rusted areas of my gas tank before top coating it and floor boards. Stuff is amazing. Just an FYI, which may also help in your decision. Unless they have re-formulated it, it is UV sensitive and a top coat is recommended for surfaces which will be exposed to sunlight.
If Their Product is Anything like Their Service, I Will be Overwhelmed. I ordered Their Product on Wed AM and Their Product was on My Doorstep Thursday at Noon. UPS. A Little over 200 Miles. The Merchandise Order Still had to be Picked, Packageed and Parcelled, Loaded on a Truck, Unloaded onto another truck for local delivery, to My doorstep. Very Impressive
Has Anyone Attempted to apply POR-15 with a ROLLER??? Others Have Mentioned that the stuff is Thin and that applying POR-15 overhead (Which I Plan to do The bottom of the trunk area While I'm repairing the gas tank) it tends to rundown the brush to your hand and arm ( both wastefull and sloppy). I would think applying with a roller would cover a larger area, would be faster and a little neater.
RE: POR-15 ou: I plan on using the stuff to spruce up the Chassis and Undercarriage of My 56 Buick Special 2 Door Hardtop. What size Foam Brush Should I Use? Should I use it on the POR-15? and also both Top Coats of the Chassis Black and Metal Mask? What is the Shelf-Life of and Open Can of POR-15? What is the Shelf Life of a Open Can of the Top Coats? The Written Information that is Supplied with the Product is Ambiguous as to the time limit to apply the recomended Second Coat. And also when to Apply the Top Coat. They Also mention about wet sanding between coats, if Fully Cured. How Long of an Interval, What Kind of Time Spand are we Talking About? The Literature when carefully read as Suggested, has a Lot of double Talk and the is some Important Information that is unclear.:spank:
more tips? Does anyone make rubber gloves that go up to your armpits? Sounds like it would be handy! Did all you guys just wire wheel your rust off with a drill and then wipe clean with (alcohol?) and then apply the POR15? Thanks
Good luck getting the lid off the new can! Use a can opener and trash the can. If you do not use it all at once put the leftovers in canning jars with Saran Wrap between the metal lid and glass. Store in the fridge. Plus store the can upside down
They will work good, I use them everyday. The best way is to put a pair of rubber gloves over the hands of the shoulder length gloves. This will keep them tighter to your hands, and they won't move around as much. Dan
