So i finally got my skylark running after spending a couple years on this big block conversion. Now that its going i have time to fret over less crucial things like stance and suspension. My problem is that my car sits way up high in the back and looks pretty cheesy actually. Here's what I know (or think I know) The car has a big block now, but still has the small block springs in the front because I read on here that they might work. So I tried em and they seem fine. I am 99% sure the rear springs are stock. I see no spacers in them or any other obvious rear suspension modification. The car was always raked like this, even with the small block, which eliminates the possibility of weight transfer causing the rake? The car always rode/still rides rough in the back only. ie go over a speed bump and the front is nice and smooth but the back just jounces over it like the rear end is welded to the frame. It rides like this all the time and is somewhat disconcerting when taking a bumpy corner the back end jumps around a bit. The car has air shocks in rear, but they hold no air. I tried to put some air in them to see if it would change anything and the air that i pumped in could be heard just leaking right out. IDK if it makes a difference but rear tires are 275 60r15 and the wheel well lip sits 2-3 inches above the top of the tire to give you an idea of the rake. I feel like these cars in stock pictures always sit pretty level. I am stumped as to why the car is high in the back with stock springs and why it rides so rough if the air shocks hold no air. Its my understanding that if the air shocks were pumped all the way up that it would cause a rough ride, so maybe they were pumped way up for a while and froze that way or something?? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have some new munroe sensa trac's that I just bought and I'll probly install those in the next day or two to see if that makes a difference. Also any tips on replacing the rear shocks are welcome. Sorry for the length Charlie
My 71 skylark convertible was the same way. It WAS a red-neck job in my case - a pair of oversized springs off of some GM land yacht were in there. I went on ebay and after a little searching I found a pair of aftermarket replacement springs - Moog cargo coils to be exact. The springs cost about $70.00 for the pair and took care of the red-neck rake. Here's a link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
DeeVee is right, someone likely put some heavier springs in the rear that will have to be changed to get it lower. New shocks will help the ride but won't hold the car up higher unless they're too long or have a big clamp on them. Don't ask how I know that, we were all young once :grin:
pulled the shocks today and my pipe dreams of the air shocks being locked in the tall position causing the rake were dashed. Luckily shocks came off easy but I still want to adjust the stance. Now I'm just worried about putting stock spring back in. Will 275/60 r15 fit with stock springs? I know a lot of guys run em so I'm assuming they will... Also, anyone got a part number for my on good rear springs? I've been using rockauto.com a lot for parts...they are good and real cheap with most things. They list the rear springs with a loaded height of 8.2-8.5 inches. Is this the height of the spring when installed with the car sitting on the ground? Right now with my car sitting on the ground the springs are about 13 inches tall. If i put the stock rear springs in with a loaded height of 8.5 inches is it really gonna drop the back of the car 4.5 inches?? I might also just run down to the Autozone and see if I can get em for this weekend since I want to do the work then anyway. So since I'm a scattered poster, here's my questions: What exactly does the loaded height designation indicate? Will my current rear tires (275/60r15) fit with stock rear springs installed? Where should I get/what part number of stock rear springs should I use? Heavy or regular duty? Also, never done a rear spring swap. A simple step by step or any random tips would be appreciated. Thanks Charlie
I can't say with any knowledge what the loaded height will be. I do know that the Moog Cargo Coil springs provide a mostly stock appearance and that they are designed to handle "Cargo" loads in the trunk. I have a load of spare parts crammed in the trunk (2 intake manifolds, a disc brake conversion, a quadrajet and a bass tube plus some other odd parts, the car does not sag in the rear. As far as your tires - they are OK, the concern is the backspacing on your rims. With a 15" x 8" rim you need about 3.5" to 4" of backspacing to accommodate the 275/60/15's. I did post a link to the cargo coils on ebay in my earlier response - best price & quality I could find. I have seen springs for twice the price, IMO springs is springs as long as they are the right springs. Replacing the rear springs are not so bad - just a step by step job. I do believe that you will be satisfied with the Moog springs as far as quality, price and desired results are concerned. Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out!
Afterthought You mentioned air shocks in your post. Personally - I would ditch them and get a good set of heavy duty shocks.
Thanks Deevee. Last question, and I think I know the answer, but are there different rear springs based on whether the car is a small block or a big block?
Rear springs are dirt easy to replace. Make sure the car is well supported by the frame on jack stands, hold the center up by the jack, disconnect the shocks and pull the springs out. Hopefully you can just pull down on the axle on one side, and they will come out. If the springs are really long you may need to remove the upper control arms, be careful that the axle doesn't roll and pull against the flexible brake line when held in by just the lower arms (ask me how I know)... call up www.espo.com for springs. I bought Moog springs from the local autoparts store and they were too short. They should fit in the upper and lower spring perches with very little if any slop when the shocks are installed and the axle just hanging. 2 sets of Moog springs I received from the local parts store were 1.5" short and 2.5" short from Moog's catalog specs. I have a convertible and went with the Chevelle convertible/ Skylark 4 dr springs. edit I also went with the sens-a-trac's and I like them.
So long story short, no. I replaced the shocks with the Monroe Sensa-tracs that I bought. While I had the old ones off I jacked the car up, put it on jack stands and slowly lowered the rear end. With the rear end hanging from the upper control arms the springs are still compressed enough that they won't budge. I didn't go any farther at that point because I didn't have new springs to put in yet, and my priorities dictated that I needed a front brake rebuild before I messed with the springs (which I got done successfully later that same day). My other new problem is that I measured and decided that my rear wheels are 15x8's with 3 inch backspacing. Whoever had it before me went all out with the redneck theme. I've deduced with a makeshift pendulum that my 275 60r15's will be stuffed right into the lip of my wheelwell if I lower the rear end without new wheels. Suddenly a 100ish dollar day is now looking like several hundred depending on the wheels I want to go with. Either way, I won't be affording to do anything about it for a while. I guess I'll just have to grow out a mullet and wear a cutoff flannel for now when I drive it. :blast:
It sounds like the same guy owned my car. It had oversized springs, Cragar S/S 15" x 8" with 3" backspace and 255-60-15's. I also discovered soft copper lines for fuel lines - another BUBBA issue. The upside of discovering these issues is that eventually you have a very thorough and intimate knowledge of your car and what makes it work, you will be able to tell if something is wrong by the way it sounds &/or feels.
Yeah, deevee, you're right. I've gone through so much with this car already to do the big block conversion. The wiring was an absolute nightmare and I replaced everything. It took a lot of time, but I'm glad I did it. Its just frustrating because I really don't mind the look of the rims that are on there too much, but I won't be able to drop the rear end and use them. And rims=:dollar: Oh, and I can post pictures of the car, but after thinking about it a little, I just don't think the mullet is quite my style. :laugh:
Before and after Redneck Rake Here is my car when I bought it. The springs in the back were HUGE, probably out of a full size car. The 15 x 8 Cragars in the back had a negative backspace so that the wheels rubbed the wells anytime the car dipped. I replaced the land yacht springs with a pair of MOOG cargo coils that I found on ebay (about $70.00) and I also replaced the negative offset Cragars with 15 x 8's with a 3 3/4" backspace. Now the wheels fit inside the wells without rubbing.
My MOOG Cargo 5385 coils have good stance, and are firm springs. I replaced them with slightly taller Moog 5379 Skylark springs. I used the softer Skylark springs for noticably better 60 ft traction. The 5379 Skylark springs hold the rear up at 26" with a 27.5" tire. The 5385 Cargo's were about 1/2" lower. You can install air bags if needed. They will protect the tires from rubbing. I'll be selling the 5379's soon and the 5385 cargos are boxed for shipping. I'm installing softer, and shorter, Moog 6321 with a smaller 26" MT Drag radial tire. I want low profile without rubbing.
Re: Before and after Redneck Rake Now thats a make over! Looks fantastic now man! :eek2: Amazing how important wheels/tires and stance are to the look of the car.:TU:
