Hi guys, (1) I am looking for a good satin urethane clear with a sheen to it. I don't want chalk board flat. I have used a few clears, my least favorite so far is omni, my favorite is SPI. This car will not be garaged and will be a daily driver. I will take and appreciate all suggestion. (2) I just tried to use SEM self etching primer on the stainless steel trim around the door. I sanded the trim pretty well, the primer just lifted up and flaked off. That is a first for me. Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
I've used this stuff for areas where I didn't want a shine, like in the trunk, but it still had a little sheen.
If you are wanting them semi flat...sand with 220 or 320...then mist coat of Bulldog adhesion promoter then a good epoxy...SPI...DP90...etc then use a hot rod urethane...SPI..SEM...Autobahn.... For "clear"....ppg 2040 fixed and flat is premixed Or just use flattening agent to adjust the sheen to the desired look Nothing sticks to chrome or stainless to its full potential...you can get 75% adhesion at best
Thanks hugger. I use SPI clear urethane clear. I didn't think of a flattening agent. Do you have one you recommend. I know the stainless steel situation will be tricky. I hate painting it to be honest, but the trim was ruined at some point. I was exploring taking it off and having the trim powder coated. It's crimp on really well. I am concerned that I will ruin the trim taking it off. Since the car is a four door, I doubt I will find a replacement. Do you have any good etching primers or solutions I can consider?
Best thing on stainless is a 2k epoxy spi has it in qts I'm pretty sure....but do as described above and that's the best method from my experience....I've done it mote than a few times
Sounds good. I am shooting the whole car with SPI epoxy. I was going to mask off the door trim because I wasn't sure. I will include the trim.
Just an update. The SPI epoxy worked great on the stainless steel. I used Bulldog adhesion promoter with the SPI. I would not test the adhesion, but I can tell its pretty good. I will post pictured if you guys are interested: NEXT: Satin Clear Coats: Here is what I came up with: Summit Satin Clear Restoration Shop Satin Clear Sherwin William Satin Clear 5 star recommend by Dr. Roger OR Utech890 additive to SPI Gloss Clear (I think my last choice) This car is going to sit out in the Georgia heat and will be black. It will be driven normally or daily. Thoughts?
Yea it's kinda like testing an electrical crimp connection....they all will fail if you "test" them enough haha Either will be fine...most of the off brand stuff is rebranded to be honest....I would use the Sherwin Williams BUT I generally try to keep the base and clear the same manufacturer and same reducer
I used to go all out PPG, but then I discovered SPI. I use their primers and clears with PPG base coat and that worked great. SPI clear is just more user friendly for me, I would always have issues with runs with PPG. While I am not perfect with SPI, I find it easier to put down smooth. I tried mixing PPG and House of Kolor. That was a nightmare, the HoK did not like PPG. Since then PPG has shot through the roof in price. I agree that they make quality products but not at double the price of Nason or some other products. For this car, I am using a Nason basecoat. I am going to Finishmasters today to pick up the base coat, I will see what their clear options are. The interweb is not clear on who makes the Summit clear, I happen to be lucky enough to live near Summit racing. The Sherwin William I can get from Amazon. The other question I can not get a clear answer on is if I can cut and buff a satin clear. The answer seems to be no.
No you can't...how it goes down is what you got...Nason has "select clear" have finish masters give you some flattener 50/50 will give you an eggshell finish
Ppg clear has goes to **** imo 2021 is garbage now....certainly doesn't spray or lay like $800 gallon of clear should....sikkens is my top shelf choice now
Here is what I came up with: Finishmasters gad transtar flattening agent. The people at Finishmasters and transtar say it's universal. Thoughts or experiences?
It will be fine...just do a test panel first to get the desired sheen and let it dry overnight b4 Makin a decision....it will be different in the morning than just flashed off
Unfortunately, the transtar additive did not work. It worked well on test panels and small areas like the glove box lid. We dialed in the mix and I was hoping to share good news. Unfortunately, the transtar and SPI decided to separate when it dried on the car. Ruining the paint job, leaving a blotchy speckled surface. I will try the restoshop satin clear when I reshoot the car at a later time. We are going to get the car running before we try again. The one spot on the roof, I tried to coat four times. The clear coat started to waterfall off the roof and the white powder (flattening agent) would just re-emerge. Live and learn. This is not my first build, but it is my first car. Also, my second time going with a satin clear coat. The first time I used PPG satin clear, it was cost prohibitive for this project.
Are you painting outside? What is the weather like there? I am curious as I had not considered that possibility...
High humidity will cloud your clear coat. I use a humidity gage to make sure I don't shoot paint when it is too humid. I try to stick with the same manufacturer for any paint job, including primers, base/clear coats, hardeners, etc. That way, you reduce the chances of incompatibility. The little white spots look like fish eyes, which can be caused by oil/water getting into your paint, often from your air compressor. I keep a water separator attached to the base of my gun to keep moisture out of the paint and I drain the water out of the compressor tank often when I am painting. You might check out Nason products. They tend to be less expensive, which is what I usually use since I'm pretty cheap.
The flattener has to be shaken or stirred extremely well....but yea you had surface contamination....what did you wipe it down with?....any diesel fuel been run near by? ...contaminated rags?.....the reason it turned white on the roof is you put to much on too fast. With satin you wait for it to dry then sand out what you need. But to make your life easier.....much easier...use a single stage satin black...SEM has a nice hot rod black.
