Give it a few days to dry then sand with 500 and water and use the single stage.....gallon is like $185 be easier than building it up and having to tape it all up and not be able to get the edges as well...
For starters, I want to say that I am on three different forums trying to learn the nuances of putting down satin paint. Out of all that you have been the most helpful. I have painted a motorcycle frame once using a PPG kit. I used a regular clear, probably SPI waited for that to cure, then cut that, then sprinkled the satin clear down. On a car it's a whole new level. I am pretty stubborn and I like the challenge. I agree with you on the roof. It appears that the satin clears need to be light coats. We stirred, shook and strained the flattening agent. I agree the roof might have been too much, probably a run there that I then tried to fix and made it worse. Contamination is not likely, I used wax and grease remover prior to start. The car was pretty clean. My thoughts which I could be wrong: The flattening agent did not bond well with this clear. It might have started to separate in the gun or as it was being sprayed out to the panel. The white speckles you see in the picture emerged while drying. Second thought, I let the gun run dry between cups. That might have resulted in a Residue in the gun that did not remix with the newly introduced clear. I am pretty stubborn and have been here before. I will just use a satin clear. Probably restoshop or that one that Dr. Roger recommended.
Humidity was low, it was actually a perfect day. This is my first "outside" project. I will be looking into renting a paint booth or purchasing something. Also, I really appreciate everyone's help. If you guys are interested I will keep updating with this project.
Hi guys, I am doing some research. I agree with the fact that there was probably some user error in using the flattening agent, Inalso think there was a compatability issue as well. SPI is a 1:1 clear and transtar only lists 2:1 and 4:1 clears as mixing options. Moving on: Urechem makes a product that looks promising. There is a lot of online chatter about urechem BUT did they used to be urekem? If anyone knows? 5 star also makes a promising product. The 5 star 5166 is not that easy to get, but has come recommended from people who use it such as Dr. Roger. He used a different clear but had good results. Feedback or thoughts?
I tend to agree with hugger; a single-stage satin black would likely be a lot easier and potentially less trouble. If you want something really shiny, you do a 2-stage with clear coat then cut and buff to make it mirror-like, but that is not what you are looking for. I have had many long discussions with the guy that sells the paint at the paint shop, he was a wealth of knowledge. You might talk to him/her about what you are looking for and ease of use.
Yea I'm not understanding the reluctance on using the Hot rod black 2k Urethane?...you're outside...all the more reason to use a single stage....there is absolutely no positive using a clear here....if you wanted it satin purple sure you have to...but for black it's just not the way to go...if you want a touch more sheen out of the hot rod black you can spray wax it and get the mild sheen
Thanks guys, I do appreciate the feedback and you are not wasting you time giving it. I am taking all the information in. On all of my builds, I always prefer an OEM color. This car will be an every day driver and will not sit in a garage. This has happened on my motorcycles, if something breaks or needs repair, I can go get the color mixed then just do the repair. Non OEM colors can be discontinued or reformulated and I really am not interested in painting this entire car again. Second this is a metallic black (Chrysler brilliant black) to be specific. If I could get that color with that paint code mixed in a satin single stage, then that sounds like a reasonable plan to me. As for the environment, I am not doing that again. I agree that a 2 stage paint job will not work outside, at least not in my region with my skill sets. We are either going to try to rent a paint booth, or build one, or worst case scenario purchase an inflatable. For my motorcycle projects, I built a small 8x5 paint booth that I can dissemble and it evacuates overspray pretty well. I am sure I could build a 15 by 20 to do the same. I almost considered due to my lack of resources of paying a body shop to paint the car... but then I am out the challenge and the reward, if you can respect that. I have used a number of paint systems and have painted small parts satin using PPG clear in the past. PPG used to sell a small kit. I never used 5 star or urechem before and want to see what the thoughts are out there. My instinct says that the 5 star multi-clear might get me in trouble, some of you on this forum have way more experience than I do.
Ok yea with a metallic were obviously married to the clear....another suggestion....over reduce standard clear...the use scuff stuff on a grey scotch Brite. It will give you the satin look you're after
I thought about a similar idea. I dont know what overreduce means. I have added reducer to SPI before, typically only 19:1 or 18:2. I was thinking of wetsanding up to 3k then hand compound. I dont know that I will get the finish even.
You just add reducer or more of it...a 1:1 ratio with the SPI you would add .5 reducer...a 2:1 clear add 1 part reducer....it will die back reducing the gloss
Hi guys, It has been a few weeks but I figured I would share. Whenever I build something, I aim for 100%. Usually I achieve 90-85% due to a few flaws or errors. I would say this paint job is about 70-80%. I can live with it, because despite the perfect pictures in car shows, in person they are about the same. The Urechem satin finish is just OK, it becomes tack free pretty quickly but stays soft for a while, I could mark it with a finger nail for a good week. I would likely not paint satin again... until the next time I paint satin again. The finish is the exact opposite of a turtle wax finish in a commercial, it literally absorbs everything and does not wipe clean easily. I rarely wash my cars anyway. The finish dries unevenly, but it will eventually settle in, it takes a good week for the finish to really even out as much as it will on test panels and interior parts. The Urechem satin clear is user friendly, but significantly more difficult to put down than SPI gloss, mainly because any mistakes cannot be correct through cut and polish. Paint correction does not seem to work, it just makes the finish uneven. My guess is that is the nature of a satin clear, I wonder about a satin single stage. Oddly, this car looks worse in the pictures than in person. Usually the opposite with high gloss clear. Now its time to actually start building the car..good bye money!
I use a prep solvent as a last step before applying the first coat. SEM or Eastwood makes some. After the tack cloth. Degreaser may have contaminants. Sorry I'm late to the party...
I used Smart Was and Grease remover with US Chemical Tack rags all available locally. The job was not dirty at all. The job came out rough due to my inexperience with satin clear and lack of practice. For instance, when gloss clear is put down, imperfections can be easily corrected. If you are patient, you can make almost any paint job look showroom. With the satin, I was so paranoid about runs that can't be corrected that I didn't overlap the way I should and left a bit of an uneven finish. The pictures were taken about 2 weeks ago, the hood evened out a little but you can still see the uneven spray pattern. If I am smart, in a couple of years when the Georgia sun destroys this paint, I will have it repainted. If I can find someone to do it, and I am a little smarter than I am now .
Even in a good spray booth, spraying satin, eggshell, or flat clear you get 1 shot at it, any nibs or errors, your sanding and doing over.
