Yeah, put that in original post. Rods and Mains are Quiet as a Church Mouse...47k Just broke off 2 of the 4 Buttons I just got at AZone...tried little piece if wood, Star screw driver, and punch. Any trick to it. Original one on right was laying below rocker. Thanks Bill
Put 60 in relief when I put steel plate on...goes to 55, sometimes 60 as soon as you start it. Levels at 40, go 20 miles and down to 30 and rocker noise and missing.
Hey Mart... Just some quickie instructions from crack auto on the web...Its been soo long since Ive changed a set that I had to investigate myself... Is the shaft OFF the head??? ws REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Buick Built Engines See Figures 1 and 2 Remove the rocker arm covers. Remove the rocker arm shaft assembly bolts. Remove the rocker arm shaft assembly. To remove the rocker arms from the shaft, the nylon arm retainers must be removed. They can be removed with a pair of water pump pliers, or they can be broken by hitting them below the head with a chisel. Remove the rocker arms from the shaft. Make sure you keep them in order. Also note that the external rib on each arm points away from the rocker arm shaft bolt located between each pair of rocker arms. To install: If you are installing new rocker arms, note that the replacement rocker arms are marked R and L for right and left side installation. Do not interchange them. Install the rocker arms on the shaft and lubricate them with oil. Fig. Fig. 1: Removing nylon rocker arm retainers - Buick built engines Fig. Fig. 2: Replacement rocker arm identification - Buick built engines Install the rocker arms for each cylinder only when the lifters are off the cam lobe and both valves are closed. Center each arm on the 1 / 4 in. (6.3mm) hole in the shaft. Install new nylon rocker arm retainers in the holes using a 1 / 2 in. (12.7mm) drift. Locate the pushrods in the rocker arm cups and insert the shaft bolts. Tighten the bolts a little at a time to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm). Install the valve covers using sealer or new gaskets as previously outlined in this section. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.
No, just one button was broken. I used a drift or what I call a punch and broke 2 of the 4 new Melling MRM-1724 buttons. Thanks Bill, it'll come in handy if I need to take the shaft and rockers off. I've put buttons on before (long ago) and never had one brake.
I'll try this Sat... Multi bit screwdriver. Broken button in screwdriver and taped to good button. Should put even pressure on the new one. Thanks Bill and Everyone
Here's the Right Rockers. Steel, I thought they were aluminum on 70s. The Right Push Rods are clean and clear and drain is clear. I'll drop pan this week. Idles at 50psi, but very little oil up to rockers. But plenty came out of Push Rods when I blew them out though...??
Kinda weird synopsis Mart, but things may not always appear to be what you think they are. Hmmm. One thing I did notice in the rocker pics, was one rocker to valve tip contact point looks ate up. Is that the picture or is it in fact bad? Next one may be a seeming like a chain jerker, but follow me through on this... Are you absolutely sure beyond a shadow of a doubt that this is actually a 455 block? Case in point; I had a 1968 225 with a 430 that had low compression on one lung. I pulled the heads off and found a chunk of piston gone from the top to the first ring land. Like a thumbnail. I thought while its apart, I'd do a valve job on it too. Never having paid attention to part numbers especially from a reputable rebuilder, I exchanged the heads for rebuilts. The heads I got in return were 455 heads. Car ran fine for 6 months of daily driving, then started to make some valve noise. I come to find that the 430 oils the rockers through the heads/shafts and the 455 oils through the lifters and pushrods. My parts guy ate all the parts, I ate my own labor, but had to go bone yard hunting for a set of 455 rockers/shafts and bolts etc. I seem to recall buying new 455 lifters and push rods as well. The valve tips and rocker tips were toast. I did change that one piston out in the car by dropping the pan. I dont envy you! ws
Yikes!! No its a 47k, 48k now, SF455 and TH400 that was in 1970 Estate Wagon Bill. So I've put 1000 miles on it without enough oil getting to the rockers. Numbers matched the vehicle and you'll have 455 right behind the intake, it was made in March of 1970. I have the code written down, I'll grab it. I'll drop the pan this week, thanks for all your help Bill. Mart
This one has an off center indent. I'll use the old trick others on here have...switch Shafts to opposite head so Push Rods hit a different spot. Thanks again Bill
Block Casting # 1231738 Prod Code SF 33I Serial # 460460G436... Back of engine 455 cast in Block Thanks Bill
No problem pal... Sometimes two people brainfarting can see something that just one cant!... I can see youre looking at this thoroughly Mart...Is there any chance of swiping out a replacement rocker? That one looks like the induction hardened wear spot is gone. If you cant R&R it, Id polish it with a stone. I also think you need to do a really good visual on the valve tip; there may well now be a sharp edge on it from contacting rocker in a bad spot. The shaft may have a groove worn in it too. You know, when a rocker contacts the valve tip for opening (and closing) the point of contact "glides" across each other. Thats where roller tip rockers come into play. Are the heads OEM? An off center valve guide or bent valve stem can cause that too. Maybe take a small screwdriver and pry the valve back and forth from 3-9 and 12-6 to look for excessive slop. Guide seals can keep that from leaking and smoking (for a while anyway). Roll the push rods on a good flat table too to make sure a few arent bent. I still dont get why the pushrods were full of oil yet the rockers were dry. Thats a good'n! The rockers are indeed 455s right? Each rocker should have an oil hole (1/16"?) at the 6 oclock position where the push rod contacts it facing at the rocker shaft. I can see it in most of your pics, but all it takes is one. Usually, when you lift the valve covers, the pivot point on the rockers is full of oil at least good and wet. Bill
Thanks Bill, Yeah I'll try cleaning the one up or replace. Everything looks orginal, like when I pulled the dist out, correct # and it had no wear at all, Oil pump cover barely a score mark. I should'nt have driven very far...3 trips to Balt. I can't complain, I got a heck of a deal from Ranger's friend Johnny in Tyler, TX...$865 for SF455 and TH400. Took part of the trans apart and it looks like new too. I'll drop Pan this week. Thanks for all your help Bill. Mart
Push Rods all straight and I cleaned them up with diesel and rag. Sanded little place on rocker and valve stem. Getting oil just not enough, dropping pan this Eve. Thanks for all your help Bill.
Dropping the pan in situ sux, but get a ton of 1/4" drive extensions and a u-joint socket for the rail bolts. ws
Just had another brain fart; is there ANY possibility that the PO installed a set of 430 lifters in the holes? Did you ever run the motor to witness just how much oil was coming up the pushrods? Sometimes its a gusher, sometimes just a dribble. I built a 331 SBC (bored 327) and that puppy would squirt all over the fenders and headers. Actually took an old valve cover and slotted it to adjust the lifters. That motor sat for some time didnt it? If a few valves were open, thats pretty hard on the check valve spring in the lifter and even the valve springs themselves. Be prepared ! It may be easier to just pull the manifold off the top for a look that pulling the pan. Didja consider just pulling the motor? Its probably not much more than the pan job in the car. Just sayin'... ws
