I am now updating the wiring harness, installing the MSD and picking my radiator hoses. I hope to run the engine this weekend.
How about links to the places where you got wiring , mounts, hedders brackets ect. This looks to be the way to go if you need fuel economy and power in an old ca. I am thinking that a stock 6.0 would be a great engine for an old car like a Sportwagon. Why not go FI is it a lot harder to get computer/wiring interface to work?
There are details galore here: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conve...5-skylark-lq9-retrofit-swap-build-thread.html Hopefully this weekend I will be able to fire her up. :beers2:
It lives! Here is a video. As with all cell phone videos with open exhaust, the microphone cannot handle these sound levels. <iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/tORGDHEzh14" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Looks and sounds great Steve. Can't wait to see it in person. Must be nice to not have to break in the cam.
Thanx guys. Yes Bill, it sure is great not to have to worry about the break in. One less thing to stress about. After a new motor, transmission, steering lines, fuel lines and cooling system, not a single drop of anything leaked when I fired it up. I was very happy. The oil pressure went to 25 pounds just cranking the engine over before I turned the fuel on. When I turned on the fuel pump, the fuel pressure went straight to 6 pounds and the engine fired immediately with a touch of the key. It all went very smooth. I did my best to take my time with all the details during the build and install.
That stuff is very easy compared to some of the other fabrication involved in the project. The motor mounts and all custom bend fuel and transmission lines were more challenging for me. There is a thread or two on here about it if you can find it with search. Basically, you buy the gauge of your choice, Autometer in this case, then you remove the lens retainer ring and lens, remove the pointer needle and face, cut a hole in your clock place holder and put the shaft through that hole and re-affix the faceplate and pointer needle. Re-install and then wire it up.