I would think it would make at least some noise by looking at the bearings. I don't think I would trust the crank you had in there. With the bending it must have been doing, it could have weaken it. Like said before, measure everything with guages.
The crank goes back to the machine shop tomorrow. Measurements show that 1,2and 4 are at least .010 smaller than #3. Turns out the guy I took all my stuff to subbed out the crank to another shop. The other shop says that the set it up to turn # 3 and the machine does the rest. No one checked it. Not even me. Lesson learned. I started this project as a learning experience.. Since I know it will run, and I'm sure I've found oil pressure problem, IT WOULD BE EXTREMELY HELPFUL IF THE TURBO GUYS WOULD SHOW ME WHERE AND EXACTLY WHAT TO PUT IN THE OIL PAN FOR THE LINES. HELP ME???? I want to install whatever is necessary for the oil pan while it is off.. I'm still compelled to see this car drive before I spring for the turbos and asociated equipment.. But since I still have the turbo cam in, I do intend to see this through..
Mine are in the same spot, one on each side. I will try and get you some pix tomorrow. Remember Oil line to the turbo is 3/16"-1/4" and return to the oil pan needs to be very large(I think mine are 3/4") and a straight shot from the turbo meaning it cant flow up hill or horizontal. I hope that nothing else was damaged. Did you get some of your money back? Did he offer to reassemble for you? I would think he owes you that at least.
They offered to replace the bearings and gaskets. To reassemble it they would have to come to my house. They did not offer to give any money back or pay me for the 10 or more hours of labor plus drive time. James and Alan.. I have the location. What I really need to know is what to put and how.. I guess rubber lines would be the easiest by far. I need to know what kind of fitting??
I'll have to root around and find a picture and description of what I used. It's from Lowes and is a barbed fitting for water lines. I'm not sure what the part it screws into is called.
Got the crank back and I'll be installing it this weekend. It was double checked by two different people. I went to Home Depot and bought some fittings. I didn't find precisely what I was looking for, but I found something I think will work. THe barbed fitting is for 5/8 hose. My machinist said 5/8 should work just fine. Anyone see why this wouldn't work fine?? This is a cast or steel fitting with a barbed brass 5/8 inlet. Before I install the turbos, I can plug it with the plug seen on the left. See pics.. I'm not sure how easy it will be to weld it in on the backside without grinding it down though. I really wanted a steel fitting like the brass one. Another question for Mark or James. Which Edlebrock carb will make the best candidate for blow through on this application. A question just for Mark. Would you be willing to try to keep the choke and see if it will work like that??
You need to move the whole setup towards the front part of the engine or the cross member and motor mounts will be in the way. Here are some parts that would work great. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220062/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220703-B/ If you are going to purchase a carb for the project I would go with a Demon Blow thru carb like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MIGH...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I don't know much about the edlebrock so I would defer to Mark.
Thanks James.. One of my biggest hurdles here will be making all of the lines. I look at the Summit catalog where all of the lines are just get a glazed over look. I don't know what fits what or how all of the connectors work. If I just knew what to buy I'm sure I can put it together and make it work. I'm very good at putting things together, but trying to pick out of a catalog or off the internet without previous experience is tough.
Jay, Are you going to buy a carb? If so I think that the 750 I showed you might be to big for a 350 you might want to go with a 650. What I did was I called Demon and asked them what size, they asked me a few question and I think they suggested a 825 for the 455. But I think my 825 is a little to big, that is why I have to go so big on the jets to get the AFR correct. Remember Jay you can also call me with questions. Also you know you can go down to your local parts store and they will help you figure it out and if they won't then go to another one. My local auto parts store knows me by first and last name and if I call I don't even have to tell them who I am. That is because when I have to make up weird hoses I make them be my R&D department.
James.. I haven't found a good (knowledgeable) local parts store. I know some local guys that could help, but they never have any time. If I had waited on them.. Well, that's another story. When I started this project there were several folks that were excited and wanted to help. I have forged on without them except for the occasional question that could be answered without being on site.. I wanted to learn from them.. Enough of that. Yes. I do have to buy a carb, and I do believe a 650 is the right choice. I kind of wish I had kept the exhaust crossover ports. It takes this engine forever to warm up enough to run on its' own. Can anyone tell me why it's not possibe for a choke to work??
I couldn't find what I was looking for on the web OR the Lowes website, so I went to Lowes and wrote down the Item numbers. Then I came back home, went to the Lowes website and entered the Item numbers in the search box. One came up MIA, the other shows a socket! o No: Anyhoo, here's the info. 3/4" CXF Adaptor copper, Item # 21800. 3/4" Steel Male Adaptor, Item # 22738. Here's what they look like. I brazed the copper do-hicky to the oil pan and screwed the steel do-hicky into it.
Jay, Get the Demon. I can start mine and it might die once and after that it works fine. It is a very easy to start carb. The problem with the edlebrock is that you will need a solid float and change out the accelerator pump. The only way I know to get a solid float is to have mark make you one. By the time you buy all of the stuff to make an edlebrock work, you will have spent as much as a new Blow Thru style Demon.
I have read that there is too much turbulence created from the choke flap even when open. Buy a blow through-carb like James said, you have enough on your plate as it is.
Damn.. You went all the way to Lowes for me. I owe you some beer. I stay in Greenville pretty often. Maybe we can get together for a Hooter's beer. I looked at a similar combo but was looking for something that could be welded. I think I can make that work just fine. Off to lowes tomorrow. The 350 oil pan seems to be a little more shallow in the front area than your pics indicate so this looks like it will work better that the weld in bung that James shows..o No: ..
Sounds like your Demon works better cold that the freshly built by National Carbs. Q-jet that I have. Till the intake gets warm it will not run. Period..
Its funny that you mention not running good till the intake is warm, my 350 has a similar issue. It wants to be hot before any good WOT performance is good, with my new Fuel injection setup it is much improved for part throttle drivability. I believe my issue is related to the S divider intake I have on the car, which intake are you using?
Stock intake.. With the center divider cut out by the former owner. It's basically almost wide open. Someone had lots of time on their hands or a really badass grinder. I can run it for several minutes, Shut it off and let the heat soak up to it and then come back and it will run fine. Or, I can sit and feather (pump) the throttle for about 6 minutes until it gets warm. It's stock with a stock 72 Qjet right now. Once warm , you can just bump the starter and it's purring like a tiger..
