I'm still at a holding point while I try to figure out a oil drain solution. The fittings I bought appear to be way too big to fit in the front part of the oil pan. I can't even dream up a way to modify them to fit. These are the ones that James had links to in a previous post. The 455 pan must be shapped differently. In looking at my GS I can tell the the drain hose will have to be positioned just right or there will be clearance issues. I'm not quite sure what to do right now.. The fittings that Alan showed from Lowes looked considerably smaller. Maybe Mark can find the time to show us what he did for his setup????
Jay, sorry for the bad advise. I have a 350 setting on the shelf. I will look and see what I can find to make it work. It sounds like you are going to have to use smaller stuff than what I used.
After a trip to Lowes, what Alan has done is to take a 3/4" OD barbed pipe fitting and convert it to 1/2" where it is brazed in the pan. Even that setup looks a little too big.. I think I can make one of these pieces with barbs on both ends fit by simply drilling a hole and welding it in.. It is 3/4" OD. The lip on the oil pan will have to be modified to fit though.. I can't see why that wouldn't work..
I think you can still use those. One, grind a little clearance on the pan lip. Then grind the bung flat on tho sides. Should be enough for a good welder then.
Looks like the male fitting in the pan would be so close to the block. even with the lip on the pan ground off, that there is no way the female fitting would thread over it..
OK, next thought. :idea2: Bring the bung down until about half is at the break in the pans sheet metal. Weld the top half on. Then Fab a piece of sheet metal to go around the bottom half of the bung, like a pipe cut lengthwise. Grind it to conform and weld in. I know that there is a lot of room away from the block.
Are you going to use a stock-location fuel pump? IF NOT, why not have your drain plumbed into the fuel pump hole in the front cover?
There are two of them.. What do you do on the side with no fuel pump?? I'll post pics later of this really simple solution..
$4 worth of parts and $40 for the welding and I have a drain setup that looks like it will work just fine.. On another note. My Barry Grant Blow through arrived today. Damn. That carb has to weigh at least 10 lbs.. This will pose yet another hurdle. Surely they make a solution to connect to the stock throttle cable?????? There are only a couple of very small vacuum ports. I will need power brakes, PCV, Ported Vacuum advance, HVAC vacuum, and modulator valve vacuum.
Jay, sorry, I didn't even catch this whole oil drain issue. I stuck my returns on the angled part of the pan way up front, but my turbos sit much more forward than the kit placement. Looks like what you have will work just fine though. Is it safe to assume the other side is the same as the one pictured?
Nice job on the oil pan:TU: That looks like it will work just fine. On my Demon I used the stock trottle cable bracket and a 1" spacer. I drilled a hole on the back side of the spacer to hook up the PCV. I also used a power brake style check valve in line for the PCV, if you don't then you will fill your crank case with boost and push oil out. I put the power brakes on the intake manifold. One of those small vacuum ports on the carb is ported and the other is full vacuum, it will say in you manual. You will need a check valve for the trans modulator as well.
Do you really need a PCV valve with a breather in the valve cover?? What is it really doing?? Where can I find a check valve for the trans modulator?? Looks like I need some kind of linkage kit to connect anything to this carb. There is nothing on the carb to connect to.. Just some holes.. More money..
PCV recycles crank case fumes. It does this by sucking threw the pcv and into the carb when the engine has vacuum. Some people don't run the pcv and just let it vent threw the valve cover. I personaly have found that it gives the car an oily smell and the engine even gets and oily film all over in the engine compartment and on the engine. For the trans modulator I went to the help section at the local parts store and found one there. I will look that part number up for you if you need me to. As far as the carb goes, can you post a picture of the driver side of the carb so I can see exactly what you have going on.
Jay, If you go with the spacer give me a shout. I have a almost new trans dapt 4-hole 1" spacer I'll give you.
Looks like this is what I will have to get unless someone has a throttle cable ball assortment package and an air cleaner stud.. There are no cable balls of any type on the carb.. Just 4 holes where a stud/ball would go.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-124/
Jay, I'm pretty sure I have an extra ball assembly and the air cleaner stud. You can always use all thread rod for the air cleaner stud. How long of a stud do you need?? Alan
I really just need the little ball part for the throttle linkage. I can make a stud, but if you have an extra I would love to have it. The stud for the Qjet has a smaller thread size. Thanks for your help. Jay
