Hey all, Planning to do a simple re-gasket/seal on the engine whenever I get around to pulling it. I have gasket kit(s) already. Swapping the th350 for a 200-4r at the same time, and replacing the timing chain and both gears. Are there any tips/tricks I should know beforehand? Mostly concerned with the intake portion. Is it simply pulling the intake, cleaning up and simply replacing the intake tray? Is it like a SBC where I toss out some rubber seals and use an RTV in certain spots instead? Anything special about the rear main to keep in mind? Things like that... This is all assuming I can get the manifolds off clean, which I suspect at least one is cracked. Thanks
I had planned to do this 3 years ago but when I got it apart, I discovered it was more worn that I expected. Timing chain was worn, cam and lifters were badly worn. I am surprised it ran. You can actually reuse the metal intake gasket if you clean it a bit and coat it with copper spray. Put a dab of RTV around the water passages in the heads. Then, you only need to use adequate RTV on the front and back wall to seal the intake to the block. However, while the intake is off, pull a lifter to check the wear on them and the cam. Don't mix up the holes. Obviously, remove the rope seals and use the TA seals in the front cover and the rear main. Are you planning on pulling the heads? A little shaving of the heads will net you some additional compression. New valve seals wouldn't hurt if you take the heads off. Some of it may be more than you planned on but if it snowballs, don't stress over it.
Use RTV on the end rails. Before installing the intake bathtub gasket, put a light coat of RTV around the intake and water ports, set gasket in place, put another LIGHT coat of RTV around the intake and water ports. Fel Pro used to provide a liquid like sealer you brushed around the intake ports, but not anymore, so I started using a LIGHT coat of RTV around them.
It will if you load it on there, just a thin transparent smear. I used to brush Indian Head Gasket shellac around the ports when FelPro stopped putting in that blue brush on sealant, I found the Indian Head getting sucked in, didn’t make it far tho, I’m sure the FelPro stuff got drawn in also.
I would suggest a timing chain . Oil pickup tube . Drilling out oil pickup passage would not be a bad idea. As would a new front cam bearing and freeze plugs. the 200 trans would be better with a 3 series rear gear. The highway gear gm put in these cars makes it difficult to add an overdrive and drop rpm even farther down . Especially with the locking converter. add a trans cooler .
Are you going to use a built 200 tranny? Read up on the TV cable and follow the instructions from the builder, not the internet!
Permatex ultra grey on timing cover and waterpump paper gaskets. Thin smear around water ports on intake and on threads of water pump bolts.
I think that’s what was in my Fel Pro steel bathtub gasket on my last assembly, I did a small smear around the intake ports also.
Why would you put gasket sealer around the intake ports? That is not needed there only on the water ports. you will not get no vac leak if it is on correctly and torqued down. I did the composite gaskets and I used copper spray to hold it to the intake and engine used rtv on water ports
Fel Pro used to provide that blue liquid you brushed around the intake ports and again on the metal gasket.
One tip is use a shop vac to follow your razor or brush ext when you're cleaning off the gasket surfaces, helps less crap fall down into the cylinders, as does stuffing shop rags into each port. Also you can pull the engine with the exhaust manifolds still mounted, those stubborn bolts are a lot easier to on if the engine is out. On my car I had to remove the hood to pull the engine. I also had to do the engine and trans separately when putting back in because of my deep pan, but you should be able to pull both them as a unit if your oil pan is stock. Good luck!
"Simple" and "re-gasket job" do not belong in the same sentence. Unless you are a mechanic with a full tool box and some years of experience. And even then, that job is going to turn into a year long project and come in at about 10 times over budget.
I did not know there was liquid blu that could be brushed on. That would probably be ok since it would be a very light application, I had never heard of it. I used the copper spray on both sides of the composite gaskets then put the rtv on motor and intake and dropped it on. I made longer pins for ends of intake out of bolts, cut the ends off and used that as a guide to put intake on, this kept me straight dropping in. After I set it down and put bolts in I pulled the pins back out. This kept me from touching the composite gaskets and moving them plus keep your fingers out of that RTV on the ends of intake. You just have a hard time being straight when engine is in car and you have to lean over fender with 20 lb weight in your hands. So I use those pins to be straight and level.
Fel Pro got cheap and eliminated that liquid in the small aluminum tube, they even included an acid brush to smear it around, it had the consistency of Elmers Glue. When they stopped including it, I used Hylomar, which is a blue like gel, when I ran outta that I used RTV Ultra Gray
That's all it's gonna be. I promise. For what aftermarket parts like heads, headers and intakes cost for this Buick, not to mention how long it's gonna take to even get them, I'm sticking with just popping the pan and intake off, throwing new valve cover gaskets on and sending it. Maybe valve seals. I've done plenty of tear-downs so this isn't any big deal. I just wanted to know if there's anything special with a Buick engine I should keep in mind. I've never worked on a BSB. I hear you though... I could easily strip it bare and go nuts, but that's not happening this time. It'll take months just to acquire new heads, intake, headers, etc. if they're not available right away if I wanted to "rebuild it". Maybe someday. Or maybe just swap in an LSx and the simplicity of EFI and computers again.
I believe it was called "brush tack", and may be available separately. If you are only doing valve covers and oil pan, that should be pretty straight forward. If you decide to do the timing cover, you may run into some issues. The small bolts that hold the water pump to the cover snap pretty easily, and the long larger bolts that go through the water pump and timing cover into the block can be tough to get out as corrosion can build up on them. At that point, a new timing chain set would also be in order.
